Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[tunnie]

Soak the cable adjuster in plusgas, leave it for a day or two 

[terry paget]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

[TheBoy]

I paid around £15 for a cable for the Silver Bullet a couple of years back. No idea what brand it was, and cared even less.

As Marks DTM says, you will need to sort out the adjuster at handbrake end, as this is NOT part of the handbrake cable.  Is this the car the exhaust needs replacing on, as not having exhaust in way would make it do-able. If the actual handbrake cable is OK, no need to replace, obviously.


As to droplinks, I have *NEVER* had to cut one off before, and usually find the hardest, most time consuming part is finding the right size spanners.  But I can see the appeal in cutting them off if they've seized

[terry paget]

Access is so tight that a cordless 4.5" angle grinder easily does the job.


I brought up the price of the cable(which has increased since I bought mine 4 years ago), but what makes you think it came from Vauxhall?

A 4.5" angle grinder sounds like the right tool. My 2" air line angle grinder is too small, and my mains 9" angle ghrinder is too big.  My cut off tool does not seem up to the job. Tool Station do a mains angle grinder  for £27.98, souds favourite. I have changed the right hand drop link with spanners, but the left hand is near the wishbone height sensor, don't want to break that.

[biggriffin]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

Use this one then
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-Handbrake-Cable-Rear-2-0-2-0D-94-to-01-Hand-Brake-Parking-QH/232590729076?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20161006002618%26meid%3Df33d4e5f46204d05bda7b314a2c2be89%26pid%3D100694%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D302274413957%26itm%3D232590729076&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598

[terry paget]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

By actuator I imagine you mean the scissors arrangement that spreads the shoes, with a mechanical advantage of about 4:1. Yes, I agree, I have never stripped this car's handbrakes down, and suppose I shall have to soon.
On this car the priority is to change the exhaust manifold and get it throught its MOT test. I am just getting down some of the advisories while the manifold arrives.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

By actuator I imagine you mean the scissors arrangement that spreads the shoes, with a mechanical advantage of about 4:1. Yes, I agree, I have never stripped this car's handbrakes down, and suppose I shall have to soon.
On this car the priority is to change the exhaust manifold and get it throught its MOT test. I am just getting down some of the advisories while the manifold arrives.

Exactly that.

Assuming there is some slack in the handbrake cable with the handbrake released then the cable won't need any level of urgent adjustment.

So simply following the rear handbrake service guide should see things sorted 

[cam.in.head]

What he said
There is only one handbrake cable as such which goes as you know from one rear wheel to the lever adjustment rod and then back to the other wheel.the threaded bar is part of the handbrake lever assembly .you may find as soon as you have adjusted each wheel up that it does not actually need touching.if you realy need to clean up the threads it’s position behind the exhaust shield makes it difficult to get a die in but you may have success with a self locking nut(preferably metal squash type rather than nylon)with a slot sawn into it to act as a kind of die/cleaner.
When you actually o/haul the brake mechanism and get it nice and free it should adjust up to stiff and back to free easily(i usually go back 3 teeth myself )
Remember also that both sides must have the external pull-off spring fitted otherwise the wheel won’t snip free until you have backed it off too much!
Also whilst you are under there just make sure the handbrake cable near the wheels has not started to pull through the body hangers.they are only wound around the cable and can open up.

[terry paget]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

[Marks DTM Calib]

I use the ring end of a combination spanner to compress the spring and a set of snipe nose pliers to pull and rotate the pin, works ok for me. 

[terry paget]

I use the ring end of a combination spanner to compress the spring and a set of snipe nose pliers to pull and rotate the pin, works ok for me. 

Thanks - as in the guide. I have done half a dozen handbrake overhauls without trouble, but for some reason I am struggling with the steady springs this time. I have got one in with the help of my son, I am sure tomorrow we shall do the other.  I had adjusted  both handbrakes at the wheels before the MOT test, so, as you say, fault must be in the scissors unit. On dismantling I found it rusted solid, got it out after a struggle, and shall now clean it up and reassemble.

I wish Opel would not use so much Loctite on the brake caliper screws, makes them so hard to remove!

[Nick W]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

It's a knack. Some pliers with sharp grips to hold the retainer while you push it over the pin and rotate it.
It's much easier when you can push the back of the pin, but that's not an option on the Omega.

[terry paget]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

It's a knack. Some pliers with sharp grips to hold the retainer while you push it over the pin and rotate it.
It's much easier when you can push the back of the pin, but that's not an option on the Omega.

Thanks. Clearly needs the right pair of pliers. I assume you do it with the pliers through the large hole in the hub.

[terry paget]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

Use this one then
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-Handbrake-Cable-Rear-2-0-2-0D-94-to-01-Hand-Brake-Parking-QH/232590729076?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20161006002618%26meid%3Df33d4e5f46204d05bda7b314a2c2be89%26pid%3D100694%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D302274413957%26itm%3D232590729076&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598

Thanks. That one again is the pair of cables from the lever base to the wheels. My problem is that the cable length adjuster is rusty making it hard to adjust. I am calling it a cable; it may just be a wire from the lever. I must investigate further. I am just passing the time getting the advisories down while the exhaust manifold arrives.
I have a new rear cable set in stock. I bought it when my tester warned me that next time he would fail my car when the cable endlows gasket failed. It has failed on 6 Omegas, but he has failed none yet.