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106

Omega General Help / Re: Tyre recommendations

« on: 18 July 2018, 20:17:11 »

avon zv7 .. high end mid range tyre cheap price... good in wet and dry and wear relatively well.. can be had from camskill under 80 quid xl rated

uniroyal rainsport 3 ... again high end mid range tyre.. very good in wet ... prettty good in dry but soft wall and can wear on heavy cars. also not the quietest thing again sub 100 a corner

continental premium contact 6 (latest version) is what im going for next as supposed to be very quiet (cabin noise not road noise) ... excellant reviews for dry and wet compared to competitors and again sub 100 quid on camskill


hankook ventus evo 2 i had one a mig once.. ok tyre... but noisy and wear too quick

107

Omega General Help / Re: looking for the HD Donuts 90539049

« on: 01 July 2018, 19:56:49 »

monaro and vxr8 use same rear doughnuts bushes im sure.. see if their part numbers any different as may be firmer

108

Omega General Help / Re: Camshafts

« on: 06 April 2018, 02:16:52 »

Its a dish, not big by any means, and easily addressed by using ported heads from a 2.5/2.6 with smaller squish area.

Laney is going the right way, worthy of note is that the G cams have a slightly longer opening duration than the other cams and a slightly more aggressive opening/closing profile, hence them being the better option (although its very questionable if it makes an impact on the exhaust side given the dynamics of the exhaust stroke......although with tubular manifolds there maybe some gain to be had).

All the 3.0/3.2 cams have the optimum lift, increasing this wont give a benefit unless you were to fit larger valves as it results in a curtain area that equals (its actually slightly larger) the valve seat area. The 2.5/2.6 was effectively throttled by using a smaller inlet port and lower lift cams (hence the fitting of 3.0 cams and inlet divider plus some part matching brings 20ish bhp benefit on these).

Exhaust manifolds have always been crap, the pressed steel items from the 2.6/3.2 are better than the cast versions on the 2.5/3.0.

The best 'from stock parts' was always a 3.2 block with 2.5/2.6 heads (ported) with 3.0/3.2 inlet manifold, 2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds, 2.5/3.0 front pipes and 3.0 engine management on G/A cams, any improvements based on this starting point are going to yield better results.

Crack on I say as it will be cheaper than any other option and far more interesting.

thankyou very much for comment.

currently engine is std 3.2 v6 with 3.0 downpipes.

ive gone for 3.0 heads only due to being able to get easily.. going to be ported.. back cut on valves ..new guides  valves and chambers coated through CAMCOAT warrington .... heads are going to be skimmed. (unsure what amount by need to work out want to push it slightly past std 3.0 compression maybe 11.1)

i need to find a set of g and a cams from 3.0 and have shipped to newman cams for fast road re profiling. He said he has done them in past a few times mainly on vectras and seen good results so we shall see..

im also going to port std inlet upper and lower and match to head (may do throttle body unsure yet)

just purchased a spare set of 3.2 later exhaust manifolds. going to make a jig from these and try and make tubular stubby manifolds. not ideal however should be better than the log design of std. (thats the plan anyways)

management been looking at getting a unichip dastek ecu to allow remapping of parameters as currently cant find anyone who can remap my 3.2. 

109

Omega General Help / Re: Cmashafts

« on: 05 April 2018, 02:56:06 »

i always chase more torque .. low to midrange is the best as were you use it the most...  but gaining BHP also helps... mild reprofiling cams wont make drastic changes just help a little.

ported heads, manifolds etc again aid airflow and increase torque and bhp

raised compression again more power albeit very small amount considering only raising to 10.8/11.1 depending on what i feel like

none of mods will drastically loose low end power yes will obvioulsly move slightly  by product of tuning unless cc increase or using forced indcution but be ok
as said if can get another 40bhp (peak) that means through out rev range should increase power leading up to peak outputs.

for troque n/a cc is king. hence a tuned 2.5 as stated can put out 200bhp but still wont feel as torquey as a 3.0 becuase it isnt.. the torque peak be higher and more peaky.
would be great if could get oversized pistons for 3.2  and get to 3.3/3.4... who knows maybe further down road something to look at hahaha


apologies on later vecs running 4xA Cams  cheers for correcting

you want to start with the best cams you can for regrinding as the profiles are all slightly different. so sending j instead of a cams may yeild a slightly different re profile shape due to the original shape.

Just a thought. Any benefit in changing the pistons?

The 3.2 ones have indentations in the crowns to reduce compression .... (part of the green save the trees brigade etc)

ive not mentioned pistons not sure what your actually asking.. i already have 3.2

110

Omega General Help / Re: Cmashafts

« on: 02 April 2018, 07:55:18 »

im not fitting turbo or supercharger .. and not going 2.2... nor am i going manual
v6 is quick you cannot say a 7/7.5 sec car isnt quick haha.. considering the car is 15 years old ... heavy and based on even older senator underneath there are good (REASONABLY fast) big saloons.. shocks a lot of cars..

 i do N/A tuning always have done..  i build engines .. for myself other people and do custom fab and engineering work for people on all sorts of cars..

i will go ahead with what i know and see what outcome is...

my plan is tubular manifolds long primaries.... 3.0 heads skimmed for raised compression .. ported by myself ... either g+a cams reprofiled via newman cams orr piper cams... ported inlet manifold and throttle body... piggy back unichip ecu orr standalone ecu.  should make a good difference.. yes may only make 30-40bhp but will make a hell of a difference... and people who say other wise are none the wiser.. going from a 2.6 auto to a 2.6 manual to a 3.2 auto you can tell a big difference.. 2.6 - 3.2 is only 40bhp and it night and day difference... add that 40bhp again and going to make a difference not as much as you start to see deminishing returns...

none of above expensive if your handy.

heads cost me 50..
skimming myself... porting myself... standard cams full set 60 quid
 reprofile via newman 250 quid
exhaust flange plates 60 quid ebay
some pipe etc unkown cost not a lot budget 100 quid ish
uncihip was 350 last time i checked ... standalone unknown not looked that far yet...

so for 810 quid could potentially have a 250/260bhp car poss more.. i wouldnt call that too expensive...

and before people jump their guns... yes i know i havnt included cabelt kit etc gaskets blah blah.... cars needs it cambelt doing this year with rocker gasket etc.....
so that was getting done anyways all i need is head gaskets inlet and exhuast gaskets seen full top end kits for £100 from FAI.

after all this we see how it goes .. expensive later option is the jenvey 6 ITB kit which bolts on and fits under omega bonnet . should give a good hike.


i shall do dyno runs before and after and see what we get and keep people posted

111

Omega General Help / Re: Cmashafts

« on: 01 April 2018, 10:01:18 »

So because someone hasn't done it..  You don't do it.. That very small minded...

We know 3.0 easier to tune already on single cats higher compression and none flash based ecu... So easier to tune..

Potential... 3.2 greater more cc and same engine...
I've fitted single cats of 3.0 to mine..  Made good difference... Raise compression to 3.0 10.8 or slightly higher... And either standalone or piggyback ecu to get around mapping issues...

Camshafts are graded G A J N F...  G being wildest... I have since now had luck on vectra forum..  Finding out J cams in 3.2 are milder than 3.0 A cams...   Go I'm going to get a set of a cams..  And sent 2xa 2xg of to newman cams to be reprofiled ..

The 3.0 is regarded as more tuneable, more power & better torque curve than 3.2. Sadly emissions rules hit 3.2 

Hence 3.0 was suggested as a replacement, otherwise more effort fit a V8.

No point tuning 3.2, already at power/cooling limits.

Emmisions rules... Remove pre cats don't need to pass UK Mot...  I did it made good difference... Now just need compression hike to 3.0 level or higher

Power/ cooling limits..  Oh god seriously... Engines are good for 300bhp forced induction as std correct supercharger kits.... People have done it. Or even N/A with ITBS . Seen a vectra z32se with standalone ecu reworked heads tubular manifolds ported intake.. And 280 degree cams pulling 297bhp

There are guys in Poland pulling good figures 260/270 bhp... Bigger problem with these engine is exhaust manifold is super restrictive...

Vectra lads tune them well some are seeing 200bhp on a 2.5..

Catera forum in America has a good guide cor gaining 30-40bhp by building a 3.2 block 2.5 heads cams and was wrote by a guy of this forum...

So 3.2 at limits...  No where near.. And if worried about cooling do what I did..  Lower running stat... And better coolant...  Easy done never even has a sniff of high tenps

112

Omega General Help / Re: Cmashafts

« on: 01 April 2018, 09:21:37 »

Do me a favour if comments are not helpful don't comment... This forum is getting really worse for crap like this...

The omega can be turned into a fast saloon...  It not slow anyways pulling a 7.4 0-60....   And good motorway speeds..

You do not know what I am doing or what I know... I asked one small question what is better J or A cams that's all...   As I do not know what order the cams run from mild to aggressive on std GM profiles

It’s all pointless. The gm v6 is not quick. At all.

It’s a cruiser. With reasonable. overtaking ability. It will never win any races.

The end

113

Omega General Help / Re: Cmashafts

« on: 01 April 2018, 09:17:39 »

Love the way on this forum no one ever answer a question...  And go of on tangents...

Never mentioned anything about engine swap or 3.0.. I have a 3.2 at moment not gonna fit a 3.0 with less power and less scope for improvement...

I am however fitting 3.0 heads ported...  Upgrading cams...  Ported intake manifolds... Tubular header.. And a piggyback ecu system... All of which will improve power torque and engine..

Don't see why people struggle so much to tune these v6...  Same as any other engine...  Get more air in. More air out...  Simple..

Guys abroad and America tune these a fair bit.. Wether n/a  or forced induction...


All I wanted to know was are J cams milder than A...  On the 3.2

114

Omega General Help / Camshafts

« on: 30 March 2018, 21:52:18 »

3.2 as standard has G and J cams
3.0 runs as standard has G and A  as fad as I know..

Now I know everyone goes for 4xG as a common power mod but sacrafices a little low end torque...

I've noticed that later GSI vectras had the 3.0 can setup G and A..

Is there any advantage to A cams over J

?

115

Omega General Help / Re: Door seals

« on: 17 March 2018, 07:02:25 »

Ended up fitting no problem... Not soaking or cutting ... Removed old one ... Used ducks foot to remove clipped in section ... And rest just pulled off...

New seal little bit of washing up liquid in certain areas. Mainly door channel bit of pursueding and went in... Then over all seals and trim with kryto anti squeak gel and not CSR does not has a single creak rattle or noise at all

116

Omega General Help / Re: Omega reving

« on: 17 March 2018, 07:00:05 »

Gearbox fluid done not last year year before ... Bit I am doing it again this week just in case its that ....

Suppose yes temeprature related it could

117

Omega General Help / Re: Omega reving

« on: 13 March 2018, 02:51:45 »

it was in sport when i noticed it doesnt redline .. but im sure it used too

118

Omega General Help / Re: Omega reving

« on: 12 March 2018, 18:56:03 »

Nope no driving like miss daisy haha and its a 3.2 mv6

119

Omega General Help / Omega reving

« on: 12 March 2018, 17:21:19 »

I'm sure when I used to be in sport or foot fully down before changing gear it would hit the red line.

I noticed the other day when giving it a good dose full .. The change to second and to third it didn't hit the red line was about 500rpm before when it changed

Any idea?

120

Omega General Help / Re: Door seals

« on: 12 March 2018, 17:15:28 »

Ebay about 30 quid brand new but only passenger available .. I'm gonna fork out for drivers side but that nearer 100 quid