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[Nickbat]

Ronnie has been a life saver today. Just as I was about to kick away the stool and let the noose do its business, he calmed me down and spent hours on the phone guiding me. Mind you, we're still not done.

The problem is twofold:

1) Vx gave me belt with no markings. Hence it went on wrong and threw the cams out when I tried to crank the engine 360 degrees.
Ronnie helped me get that sorted. I had to paint marks on the new belt, but I may be one tooth out so I'm going recheck it tonight

then:

2) There is no adjustment nut on the lower pulley. Cams 3&4 are thus not adjustable. The new Vx way is apparently to get the crank lock vertical, then insert the non-adjustable roller, then crank round to TDC which should line up 3 & 4. Does it work? Well, it hasn't so far.  

A complete waste of 12 hours, but at least Fin was able to remain upbeat. The guy's a genius! thanks again, mate!!

Bath is run, so off I am to pollute the water.

Back later.

Nick

[Chopsdad]

Bad luck mate ... it'll look better in the morning ....it always does  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[tunnie]

you will get there, as chops says will look better in the morning. Have yourself a beer and chill for now.

Ronnie is indeed a top guy  

[TheBoy]

no markings seem normal now, but non adjustable lower pulley, never seen that?

[Dazzler]

Looks like we will start having to use Gates belt kits rather than the GM ones :-/

[Kevin Wood]

The cam belt procedure for Y26 and Y32 engines states that this pulley is fixed so I'm guessing it was a change on these engines.

Procedure is to line up crank to 10 degrees before TDC, install belt and tensioner then advance crank to TDC and tension belt. I guess the extra 10 degrees is a guess at what it'll take to tension the first run of the belt. Trial and error, though, especially with no markings on the belt  

Kevin

[Nickbat]

The cam belt procedure for Y26 and Y32 engines states that this pulley is fixed so I'm guessing it was a change on these engines.

Procedure is to line up crank to 10 degrees before TDC, install belt and tensioner then advance crank to TDC and tension belt. I guess the extra 10 degrees is a guess at what it'll take to tension the first run of the belt. Trial and error, though, especially with no markings on the belt  

Kevin

Yes, that seems to be the case. If I'd known about this before, I wouldn't have undertaken the job. The problem I've found today is putting the tensioner pulley on pulls the crank (remember it's not locked) in an anticlockwise direction by a few degrees. It may be my new markings are slightly out, but I'll recheck them tonight.

Sod of a job.  

[Ken T]

Hey it sounds as if you have nearly got it solved. Once its done, it will be great. Hope you are taking plenty photos for a 'how to' maintenance guide

[Nickbat]

Hey it sounds as if you have nearly got it solved. Once its done, it will be great. Hope you are taking plenty photos for a 'how to' maintenance guide

I wish I had your confidence, Ken!  

I still don't have new cambelt on and the VX instructions seem trial and error (and what an error if you get it wrong!).

[Kevin Wood]

I still don't have new cambelt on and the VX instructions seem trial and error (and what an error if you get it wrong!).

At the end of the day, as long as you turn the crank through 2 turns and check the alignment of the cams afterwards, and repeat if there's any doubt there shouldn't be any catastrophes. Would be a hell of a lot easier with markings on the belt though

Kevin

[Nickbat]

I still don't have new cambelt on and the VX instructions seem trial and error (and what an error if you get it wrong!).

At the end of the day, as long as you turn the crank through 2 turns and check the alignment of the cams afterwards, and repeat if there's any doubt there shouldn't be any catastrophes. Would be a hell of a lot easier with markings on the belt though

Kevin

Kevin,

I've matched the new belt up with the old one and used a thin artists pen to paint white lines (with water-based emulsion) in the same places as the old (very faded ones). I've checked it several times and will check again, but I am confident that I have got them right. As I said earlier the problem I have is the fact that you have to put the lower non adjustable roller on after setting the 10 degrees before TDC. Every time I tried it today, the crankpulley went anti-clock when the pulley went on and there was no slack left to turn to TDC. I am hopeful that my new white lies will do the trick, but not that confident. :-/

[CaptainZok]

Just a thought, with 3/4 cams locked and belt on cam & crank marks if you back the crank off your 10 degrees then fit the idler won't it take up the slack as you return the crank to the locked position then fit the wedge?
Then you can continue to run the belt round the other idler, 1/2 cams and finish on the adjuster.

[Nickbat]

Just a thought, with 3/4 cams locked and belt on cam & crank marks if you back the crank off your 10 degrees then fit the idler won't it take up the slack as you return the crank to the locked position then fit the wedge?
Then you can continue to run the belt round the other idler, 1/2 cams and finish on the adjuster.

I like your thinking Cap'n. I might run it past Ronnie tomorrow.

The Vx guide definitely says put the crank at 10 degrees BTDC then fit the idler, but it doesn't say you can't go to TDC first. Hmm, I'll need to think about that. A further complication is the fact that Vx say you should over adjust the the 1/2 cam idler with the allen key so that the gap is 10mm and that it will then go back after cranking to the usual 3/4mm. Weird huh?

[JamesV6CDX]

I did a non-adjustable one on Bob Dents - the one that came off was non adjustable too.

Personally, I found it much easier, than having to get a 30mm spanner down there !

[Marks DTM Calib]

I normaly run the belt in the standard way and then fit the lower idler, bolt and spacer as a single assembly. They are a bit tight to get the bolt in but, do able.