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[YZ250]

Any input from the leccy guys very much appreciated.     (52 plate 3.2)

Travelling home in the early hours, so all lights on, goes to give it the big one when the battery light came on. Pulled over immediately to check the aux belt and that was fine and the car was running fine at this stage.
My next move may have been very careless on my part as, due to the road I was on not being ideal for waiting for the AA from a safety point of view, I decided to carry on to somewhere safer. I did actually manage to get it the remaining five miles home but a series of issues took place along the way, hence why I'm annoyed with myself for not just waiting.

In order of issues:

Battery light comes on solid, no flickering, just on nice and bright. Aux belt is fine.
Continue journey and dash lights start to get dimmer and radio goes off.
I touch the brakes and the TC, Spanner light and Airbag lights come on and stay on.
The rev counter and speedo are stuck at 2000rpm and 60mph respectively.
I know the old girls dying but she's nearly home, just another mile to go.
I lose the o/s xenon, closely followed by the nearside xenon but I'm now in the heavily lit town.
I pull into my drive and the idle rpm rises to 1000rpm on its own.  Switch off and go to bed.

This morning I ran some checks.
Engine off as I left it last night = Battery reading across terminals is 11.75
Battery wouldn't turn engine over so I left it on a mains charger for three hours (terminal clamps removed in case I did it more harm).

Retested since charging and I get:
Rev counter and speedo now back to zero as normal
Engine off, across now connected terminal clamps = 12.24
Cranking 'pull down' = dropping as low as 10.15
Battery terminals with engine at idle speed = 11.51
Battery terminals with engine at 2000rpm = 11.4
Battery terminals at higher revs = 11.4

Didn't get a chance to do the 'lights on' check as the engine died at that point. Battery is now flat again. 

When I'd charged the battery I did try the xenon's and they are both working again so I'd imagine that everything was trying to run direct from the battery power last night.

Assume this points at a replacement alternator and a new battery. Just hope that I haven't fried anything else by getting it home. 

Any input very much appreciated as always. 

[tigers_gonads]

If you can get the front end up on ramps, do a voltage check from the main 12 volt terminal on the alternator its self straight to the battery negative terminal with the engine running
Extend the negative cable of the meter first or make up a fly lead.

If you still have the same output, replace the regulator on the alternator itself (about 50 quid) and see if the battery holds a charge after that 

If you have 13 volts plus directly at the alternator, start looking for a knackered bonding strap.
First port of call would be the one that goes from the PAS pump to the front subframe 

[zirk]

Yep, does sound like Alternator.

Battery should be fine, it it was before, just needs a good slow charge over night / day to confirm. if its not sealed check acid levels before charging.

[Andy H]

Those are pretty much the symptoms I had when my regulator failed.

It seems odd that you only got 5 miles after the alternator light came on when mine failed I was able to drive from Chichester to Southampton before we chose to stop & call the AA.

My guess is that your battery is flatter than a flat thing. If you have a smart charger then put it on charge and leave it on charge until the alternator is fixed.

[YZ250]

Thanks for the replies guys. 

Battery is on charge again as it died halfway up the ramps. 

Those are pretty much the symptoms I had when my regulator failed.

It seems odd that you only got 5 miles after the alternator light came on ..........

It happened within five miles of my house Andy so I didn't need to go any further.  The lights were crippling it though as the engine was fine at the time.

Will do as tigers_gonads suggested and update later. 

[YZ250]

If you can get the front end up on ramps, do a voltage check from the main 12 volt terminal on the alternator its self straight to the battery negative terminal with the engine running
Extend the negative cable of the meter first or make up a fly lead.

If you still have the same output, replace the regulator on the alternator itself (about 50 quid) and see if the battery holds a charge after that 

If you have 13 volts plus directly at the alternator, start looking for a knackered bonding strap.
First port of call would be the one that goes from the PAS pump to the front subframe 

Right, I've hopefully understood this correctly.

I've extended the negative from the battery terminal (crocodile clips both ends) so that I can reach it with the common of the multimeter from under the car. I started the car and touched the red probe on to the main spade type connector quite high up the alternator i.e. not in the main harness block, and I get 11.26 reading on the meter. Guessing that's not good.  When I checked it at the battery terminals a few weeks back I'm sure it was around the 14.2 mark.
Battery has been at around 11.7 for the last couple of months so I will get a new one when the alternator is sorted. 

[YZ250]

If you can get the front end up on ramps, do a voltage check from the main 12 volt terminal on the alternator its self straight to the battery negative terminal with the engine running
Extend the negative cable of the meter first or make up a fly lead.

If you still have the same output, replace the regulator on the alternator itself (about 50 quid) and see if the battery holds a charge after that 

If you have 13 volts plus directly at the alternator, start looking for a knackered bonding strap.
First port of call would be the one that goes from the PAS pump to the front subframe 

Right, I've hopefully understood this correctly.

I've extended the negative from the battery terminal (crocodile clips both ends) so that I can reach it with the common of the multimeter from under the car. I started the car and touched the red probe on to the main spade type connector quite high up the alternator i.e. not in the main harness block, and I get 11.26 reading on the meter. Guessing that's not good.  When I checked it at the battery terminals a few weeks back I'm sure it was around the 14.2 mark.
Battery has been at around 11.7 for the last couple of months so I will get a new one when the alternator is sorted. 

That should read 'earth style' connector.  The thick brown wire on its own with a nut holding it on.

[tigers_gonads]

If you can get the front end up on ramps, do a voltage check from the main 12 volt terminal on the alternator its self straight to the battery negative terminal with the engine running
Extend the negative cable of the meter first or make up a fly lead.

If you still have the same output, replace the regulator on the alternator itself (about 50 quid) and see if the battery holds a charge after that 

If you have 13 volts plus directly at the alternator, start looking for a knackered bonding strap.
First port of call would be the one that goes from the PAS pump to the front subframe 

Right, I've hopefully understood this correctly.

I've extended the negative from the battery terminal (crocodile clips both ends) so that I can reach it with the common of the multimeter from under the car. I started the car and touched the red probe on to the main spade type connector quite high up the alternator i.e. not in the main harness block, and I get 11.26 reading on the meter. Guessing that's not good.  When I checked it at the battery terminals a few weeks back I'm sure it was around the 14.2 mark.
Battery has been at around 11.7 for the last couple of months so I will get a new one when the alternator is sorted. 

Yup, its the big wire on there 

Sounds like the regulator is shagged to me 

1 of 3 thing you can do imho

Just replace the regulator (cheep)
Total overhaul of the alternator. I:E   slip rings, brushes and regulator (cheepish)
Or just bang the knackered one in for exchange (costs more but less hassle)

I think you should be able to remove the regulator with it still fitted but be careful you don't lose any nuts 
If you do remove it, watch the knock sensor wire when you refit it 


As for the battery, just stick it on a slow charge and it should be okay 




If you PM Kev Wood, he has a CARGO number for the replacement iirc

[YZ250]

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. 

[Andy H]

I think you should be able to remove the regulator with it still fitted but be careful you don't lose any nuts 

 

Absolutely no chance of swapping the regulator with the alternator still in the car. Easy job once you have it out and on the bench though

[YZ250]

I think you should be able to remove the regulator with it still fitted but be careful you don't lose any nuts 

 

Absolutely no chance of swapping the regulator with the alternator still in the car. Easy job once you have it out and on the bench though

Do you mind me asking where you got your regulator from Andy as I'm struggling to locate one. 

[RobG]

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Mid-Ulster-Rotating-Electrics/Regulators-Large-/_i.html?rt=nc&_dmd=1&_fsub=5554706011&_sid=1097905791&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_vc=1&_pgn=3

[YZ250]

Cheers for that Rob. 

[Magwheels]

Yep, does sound like Alternator.

Battery should be fine, if it was before, just needs a good slow charge over night / day to confirm. if its not sealed check acid levels before charging.

 

[Andy H]

I think you should be able to remove the regulator with it still fitted but be careful you don't lose any nuts 

 

Absolutely no chance of swapping the regulator with the alternator still in the car. Easy job once you have it out and on the bench though

Do you mind me asking where you got your regulator from Andy as I'm struggling to locate one. 

I wanted to get a genuine Bosch regulator but I couldn't get one quick enough so I bought a pattern one from an old school alternator repair shop that was in walking distance of the office.

http://www.alternator-startermotor.co.uk/