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I don't believe the Omega disengages unless ECO is selected, there is a fault, or temp below 4C.
On the auto setting the clutch should kick in and out when the sensor detects its reached it desired temp, is the little grill above the display free of dust/ silicon spay?
On the auto setting the clutch should kick in and out when the sensor detects its reached it desired temp, is the little grill above the display free of dust/ silicon spay?
Read 17c today. Which was right. The air con seems colder on low, than it did before I changed the sensor? I didn’t think the sensor made any difference if climate set to low or high?
The operation of the a/c on a face lift car is dependant on the outside air temp sensor. Not on an earlier preface lift car though
Where the bottom of the front bumper bends back and under the car, its clipped in there. Central on a FL.
Sensors a cheap from dealer. And are known to fail occasionally.
Centre of the bumper below number plate...
Massive clue here...Facelift sensor can be changed by opening the bonnet. Takes five minutes if you're blind and stop for tea and cake
How do you know you they did not dye it?
There was dye in the system, bright green stuff around the cap of the HP valve. But as well all know the dye is utterly useless in actually diagnosing a leak, as always on the Omega the compressor is covered in crap and dye, the old 3.0 estate had green dye all over the place, yet the air-con never failed.
Recall your MV6 needing a yearly re-gas, I suspect this will be the same.
Interesting. I had mine regased twice last summer by ats, lost it all by September. Just had it regased by Mr Clutch, seems better than last year already. Only two weeks in, I will have too see if it lasts all summer. If it doesn’t, might take the advice of replacing the low and high ports😀
If dye was used - and the dye can generally only be seen properly with UV, but some are a fluorescent yellow now - then any leak would be obvious (under UV light if its UV dye). That's how I know they didn't put dye in it, or otherwise stringing you along
The MV6 needed almost monthly regases purely because the national fast fit people don't know what they are doing. Look it to somebody who did, and low and behold, no further issues, despite nothing being replaced other than the refrig.
Used to be buypartsby.co.uk, but they are no longer doing anything online it appears.Believe it or not, and I know impossible for a younger generation to comprehend, but there is a think called a telephone. What you do is press some numbers in the correct order, and (shock, horror) speak to someone.
Actually, you often get better deals this way.
If your door cards have been previously removed, you may as well take it/them off .
The issue arises where they are glued ( I think) along the top edge at the factory. They take a fair whack to get them off once all the fixings are removed .
Rear is very similar to the front to remove . As I remember there is one central fixing which is hidden & takes a little thought to locate it . I think it is behind a cover plate or bung . Once door card is off ,speaker removal & access is easy. If one side is working , just swap speakers & see what occurs. Good luck
It may be the loom, my alpine unit looses the rears when I push it back so have to fiddle with it till it works then finally shove it into the dash
Even with the head unit out, they don't work?
No they don't. I don't know how to strip the door down too check the speaker?
Check out the maintenance guide index under
"Trim,Cosmetic,Body" then the sub -section "Door card removal -Facelift"fairly straight forward to do . I seem to recall that I did once change a speaker by partly releasing the door card & lifting it up without releasing from the top , where they are usually stuck to the door inner section . Speaker is simply held in by 3 screws which you will see once door card is removed/lifted
