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[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Didn't adjust the top pulley then? 

Adjust the top pulley ?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Yep, top idler arrow set to 12 o,clock, then tighten the 13mm nut. Bottom one anti clockwise until marking lines up with the top of the notch. All tightened to 40nm. Didnt swap anything over as the new backplate etc. al looked the same as what I was taking off.  Dont know where I went wrong tbh.
Will try again, tomorow - if its dry.

Shouldn't the top idler be set to 8 o'clock' ish and then tighten the bolt whilst holding the large nut in position.
The adjuster is turned to new belt position and held in position with an Allen key and then tightened up by the 13mm nut. It's imperative that the large idler nut is held whilst tightening the top idler bolt, as failure to do so can loosen the other, as they turn in opposite directions. 
I've got a load of photos from when I've done mine in the past so if you need any visual guides just give me a shout.
Good luck for the next attempt. 

Im pretty certain the DVD says and shows it being held at 12 o clock with the 30mm spanner, while the centre bolt is tightened.
Lower one turn with an allen key until the mark is in line with top of the notch, then tighten the 13mm nut while holding allen key in position.
Didnt feed the belt anti clockwise, did it as per the DVD. Maybe thats where I went wrong ?
Will try again tomorrow, if its dry, and report back.

Thanks for all the advice / info.

[Raeturbo]

Feel we* are making progress on this now.  Gone from depression yesterday at the thought of replacing the inlet manifolds - which is probably a job too big for me currently - to a more optimistic view it might be something else.

Having looked at videos of split manifolds, I can see no sign of my insulation moving on lift off.


*Me doing the monkey work, Marks "Remote Diagnostics" DTM Ltd pulling the strings

                 Mm, my son had to replace the two inlet manifolds after getting it mapped, cost about £1600 all in cash I think with the timing belt done at the same time. Must say these are quite common for  cracking the manifolds even on standard boost pressures, and as far as I know I don’t think JLR  have modified them.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You of course ment to say Peugeot have not modified them 

(They have done mods, no idea if it fixes it)

[YZ250]

Yep, top idler arrow set to 12 o,clock, then tighten the 13mm nut. Bottom one anti clockwise until marking lines up with the top of the notch. All tightened to 40nm. Didnt swap anything over as the new backplate etc. al looked the same as what I was taking off.  Dont know where I went wrong tbh.
Will try again, tomorow - if its dry.

Shouldn't the top idler be set to 8 o'clock' ish and then tighten the bolt whilst holding the large nut in position.
The adjuster is turned to new belt position and held in position with an Allen key and then tightened up by the 13mm nut. It's imperative that the large idler nut is held whilst tightening the top idler bolt, as failure to do so can loosen the other, as they turn in opposite directions. 
I've got a load of photos from when I've done mine in the past so if you need any visual guides just give me a shout.
Good luck for the next attempt. 

Im pretty certain the DVD says and shows it being held at 12 o clock with the 30mm spanner, while the centre bolt is tightened.
Lower one turn with an allen key until the mark is in line with top of the notch, then tighten the 13mm nut while holding allen key in position.
Didnt feed the belt anti clockwise, did it as per the DVD. Maybe thats where I went wrong ?
Will try again tomorrow, if its dry, and report back.

Thanks for all the advice / info.

If the lower idler is fixed, as in non-adjustable, do the initial set-up (cam locks, crank lock) as per DVD. When fitting the belt anti-clockwise, fit the belt on the crank, wedge it in place and then back off the crank one tooth. This allows you to fit the belt anti-clockwise over the lower idler, over cams 4 and 3, under the top idler and then around cams 2 and 1 and then around the adjuster and back to the crank. Making sure that the belt doesn't move out of the cam 4 teeth/crank teeth, rotate the crank lock back on to the water pump and lock it down. This method will hold the belt correct from the crank to cam 4 and 3, meaning that the only adjustment required is for cams 2 and 1 and this is done from the upper idler, followed by the tensioner.
Hope that helps, as you won't be able to pull the belt anti-clockwise over the lower idler to cam 4 easily any other way.    Although not overly important, it will be interesting to see if the lines match this time around. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Didn't adjust the top pulley then? 

Adjust the top pulley ?

Yup

Done once the belt is on as you check the cam positions

Likewise the lower pulley if it's adjustable.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

You mean the top tensioner pulley with the 30mm nut I assume ? If so, yes it was adjusted with the arrow at the 12 o,clock position.

YZ250. Thanks. 

[Doctor Gollum]

You mean the top tensioner pulley with the 30mm nut I assume ? If so, yes it was adjusted with the arrow at the 12 o,clock position.

YZ250. Thanks. 

That's the starting point

You rotate it either way to set the 1/2 cams against the timing gauge

[Raeturbo]

You of course ment to say Peugeot have not modified them 

(They have done mods, no idea if it fixes it)

                 

[TheBoy]

You of course ment to say Peugeot have not modified them 

(They have done mods, no idea if it fixes it)

Modified to provide thicker plastic and a more gentle radius in the problem area, not quite sure when the mods where brought in though. The oft quoted TSB is from April 2015.

[TheBoy]

You mean the top tensioner pulley with the 30mm nut I assume ? If so, yes it was adjusted with the arrow at the 12 o,clock position.

YZ250. Thanks. 

Actual position depends on the backplate.  Initial position is to make it as loose as possible for fitting.  So on some backplates, wher ethe top idler is in a different position, 2 o'clock is the start point.

Tightened in direction of arrow, must not tighten beyond "6 hours" (ie, 6 o'clock or 8 o'clock) of loosest point, else it will come undone in service.

Hope that clarifies?

[Nick W]

You mean the top tensioner pulley with the 30mm nut I assume ? If so, yes it was adjusted with the arrow at the 12 o,clock position.

YZ250. Thanks. 

I think you've misunderstood what you're aiming for.


It doesn't matter much where the top and N/S pulley marks are pointing if the cams are timed accurately and the tensioner is correct. 


You want each of the adjustable pulleys in the  centre of their arcs on the beltwhen the belt is fitted and the locks are in place. Tighten their retaining bolts, remove the locks and turn the crank through two rotations to check and adjust the timing. Keep doing that until it's right. Then you adjust the tensioner, check the timing again, and call it done.


If the adjustable pulleys stop tightening the belt you need to reposition the belt and/or a pulley. Tightening the lower, N/S pulley should pull all four cams around, so you do that first. If it isn't adjustable cams 3&4 need to be right from the start, which is why you route the belt anti-clockwise with these parts. The upper pulley should only affect cams 1&2, so you do that next. These are tricky to do if you're using a standard 30mm spanner instead of the tool supplied in most kits.

[Entwood]

I always found the fastest and easiest way was to get Daz to do it for me ....   Never failed !!

[Rangie]

Been chauffered around by SWMBO in her Subaru as I have injured my right shoulder ( rotator cuff strain) by heavens it's painful.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Lower n/s pulley isnt adjustable on later versions. And yes Im using a 30mm ring spanner which is pretty awkward.
Im so pissed off with it at the moment, because Ive never had a problem doing it before. Although the last time was over 4 years ago.
Previously I have followed the DVD parrot fashion and its always been fine.
Not sure whether to start from scratch and follow the DVD again, or put together the info in this thread and try all of that.
DVD shows fitting the belt clockwise, and Im pretty sure thats how I did it to this car last time.