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Messages - jimmy944

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 136
General Discussion Area / Re: Is anyone watching.......
« on: Yesterday at 21:06:45 »
Yet still only two thirds the Nimitz class!

Been lucky enough to see these “in the metal” twice; once in Hong Kong and once in San Diego. Awe-inspiring both times! :y

General Discussion Area / Re: Engine recall
« on: 21 April 2018, 16:20:47 »
I know when my son bought his Focus over in San Francisco he told me it had a sticker on the drivers door window that said some of the materials used on the interior may cause cancer,British ones get no such warning :-\

Probably only turned carcinogenic when exposed to direct sunlight  :D

General Car Chat / Re: On she marches
« on: 21 April 2018, 13:59:13 »
Indeed, this one seems to be quite well behaved (touch wood!).

The swede also passed today, with only an advisory for balding front tyres. They’re 30k old and I knew they were close to shot, but I wasn’t going to drop £150 only to find out the rest of the car was Donald ducked.  ::)

General Car Chat / On she marches
« on: 20 April 2018, 12:16:48 »
My father took the desmond for its annual check today. Another 12 months with no advisories. What a machine  ;D

Looks well in the sunshine!

General Discussion Area / Re: Engine recall
« on: 19 April 2018, 22:41:52 »
Probably because the yanks will sue if someone forgets to put a sticker on the dash reminding them to breathe in and out!  ;D

General Discussion Area / Re: Engine recall
« on: 17 April 2018, 20:55:07 »
The head gasket issue in the RS is the incorrect head gasket fitted from the US Mustang Ecoboost that everyone thought was the same. It isn’t.

Incorrect fit from the factory?! Now that is pi$$ poor.

General Discussion Area / Re: Engine recall
« on: 17 April 2018, 10:26:20 »
Does this stem from the rush to build leaner more "tree hugger" engines? ???
I don’t think so, I think it’s cost.

Iirc the problem is the same as the one that existed on the 5 cylinder ST of the previous generation. Namely that the engines are open deck (cheaper to build) but the cylinder liners lack stability compared to a closed/semi-closed deck design.

Unfortunately as ford have found out, running these engines in higher states of tune means the lack of support at the mating face between the liners and the head can give you movement. This is probably what’s giving the coolant loss. Cracked liners on the 5 cylinder are not rare either!

Sadly, I doubt either of ford’s sticking plasters will address the underlying issue. :(

General Car Chat / Re: omega gearbox problems
« on: 16 April 2018, 11:36:11 »
Someone will be along shortly to advise, but I would be surprised if a second hand unit from a scrappers (or possibly a forum member) would set you back about 5% of that quoted price.  :y

General Discussion Area / Re: Plumbing/DHW question.
« on: 11 April 2018, 12:54:57 »

Plumber friends of mine would never use push-fit joints, and nor would I.  The simplicity and long term security of pre-soldered joints gives me no reason for even considering the 'amatuer' route.  The joy in seeing the solder show around a pre-soldered, or even plain metal coupling is so satisfying, and you know that will last. I have heard of cases where the push-fit joints have popped off due to various reasons, including a reaction to metal fittings.  Why risk it? ;)

Alternatively, why spend more time/effort (or cost if paying someone) to get no better result?

As above, plumbers will always extol the virtues of something that the average punter less likely to be able to do themselves. That's just common sense. Its no different to taking your car to a main dealer for a service, they will doubtless tell you at great length why you will get a superior service from them (at some multiple of the cost).

YZ250, I know the ones you mean! I binned the ones that came with mine and replaced them with JG Speedfit tails as the originals looked naff!

A further advantage to plastic, which is very relevant if you rent out a certain type of house, is that there is no value to the tennant in pulling your pipework out to sell for scrap  :-X

General Discussion Area / Re: Plumbing/DHW question.
« on: 11 April 2018, 11:43:46 »
You don't need any great deal of head for a positive pressure pump and its generally easier to site the pump on the fllor by the cylinder anyway.

As for pumps, I personally (and from experience) would not advise on a Salamander as the seals fail after a few years and on most of their range, cant be replaced. Stuart Turner pumps are higher quality and far better serviced, plus shop around and they can be got for similar cash.

I had a Salamander 3Bar pump for about 5 years and this year it croaked, replaced with a Stuart Turner and its both quieter, more compact and easier to fit.

Oh yes, do it in copper with solder, not the crappy push fit as the temperature and pressure cycling is not got long term on the short cut fittings.

The salamander info is interesting, I hadn't come across many bad reports online (no more than any other brand).

Regarding the push fit, is there any actual basis for the assertion they don't last? The JG fittings carry a 25yr warranty against manufacturing and material defect. My personal (family) experience is a total of about 20yrs of use, 10yrs in parents' house (and counting), 5yrs then 4yrs in two of mine and no leaks in that time.

All the problems I've read about online have been down to poor installs. Namely:
- poorly fitted/missing pipe inserts
- failure to do up the locking rings on fittings
- copper burrs fouling o-rings due to not being cleaned correctly after cutting

As far as I can tell, copper gives only two advantages over plastic, namely:
- for a given outer diameter of pipe, you have a greater inner diameter for water to pass through.
- where space is tight, the fittings are significantly less bulky.

I know the "professionals" don't like pushfit, but then why would they, it turns piping a house from a skilled to a semi-skilled job, so they are bound to extol the virtues of their craft. Then again, around 30-40% of my entire renovation time on our latest house has been spent putting right what various professionals have thought was acceptable.

General Car Chat / Re: xenon lights
« on: 11 April 2018, 11:19:43 »
My Indian motor car has HIDs which are adequate but nothing special, and not as good as the HID's on my 2003 MV6.

Are you sure its not your eyesight that's dimmed over the intervening years?  :P

General Discussion Area / Re: Plumbing/DHW question.
« on: 10 April 2018, 22:34:13 »
No worries. So, a bit of explanation on pumps, or at least what I understand of them.  ;)

Positive head relies on a “pull” from the tap, shower or whatever. The pumpsenses the flow of water through it and then kicks in. Fine if you’re in a 3 storey house with a loft tank and switch on a ground floor. But if you only have a few feet of drop, it won’t generate enough pull to trigger the pump.

Negative head is a bit like a workshop compressor, it has a pressure vessel on it and fires the pump when it detects a drop of pressure in the vessel. So as soon as you turn on the tap, the pressure vessel pushes the water down the pipe, the pressure drops and the pump kicks in.

If you want to fit one, look up speedfit piping on screwfix’s Website. This stuff is great, it’s locking push fit pipework. So there’s no soldering or any nonsense like that. All you’d have to do is cut a section out of the outflow pipe from your tank and route it via the pump. Start to finish it should take less than an hour to do.  :y

I’ve now re-plumbed two houses in speedfit so if you have any questions on it, I may be able to help  :y

General Discussion Area / Re: Plumbing/DHW question.
« on: 10 April 2018, 18:01:35 »
I had a similar issue in our place, 1 mains (combi boiler) fed shower and one electric. However, the cold into the house is only 15mm. So, barely good enough to run the mains shower alone.

My solution was to fit a loft tank and one of these (or very similar):
Salamander pump

Works a treat and powers up the electric shower with good pressure. I then half closed the isolating valve that fills the tank, so it only drip feeds as the tank empties. Result: you can now run both showers at once with decent pressure :). Fitting the same on your tank outflow should cure your issues.  :y

In terms of connections, this is 2x22mm push fittings and can be wired off to a three pin plug. You will need a negative rather than positive head pump as (most likely) the pressure/flow from your tank won't be enough to trigger a +ve head pump. In my case it would only trigger if I turned on both the shower and another tap - useless.

So far my salamander pump has been working just fine for about 9 months, you can hear it when its on, but I wouldn't say its noisy.

Hope this is helpful.

General Discussion Area / Re: OOOPs ........ :)
« on: 10 April 2018, 14:45:12 »
I'm pretty sure I saw some commentary on this very thing on one of the documentaries about Fred Dibnah that I watched on youtube not long ago. The bound the base of a chimney with thick (2" maybe) steel/wire rope to keep it together so that it fell as they intended.

Clearly it didn't make it as far as Denmark!  ;D

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