Feed to main fuse box at battery draws 0.75A upon ignition switch off, dropping to 0.55A after 5 minutes, then finally settling at 0.4A.
Battery struggled to start the car half an hour after recovery this morning. Turned over but failed to fire, putting the immobiliser light on. Second go saw it start.
I had the same trouble, ended up measuring load, and eventually decided the altenator was faulty, that it wasn't charging.
I was wrong.
I had the alty tested, and was told it was very healthy.
It's an intelligent altenator (like on a BMW) only charging the battery when required.
I replaced my battery and all my troubles were gone. I got the biggest bastard that would fit, 75Ah with 700 cold cranking amps.
If you aren't convinced that your battery is faulty (i am though), consider the following calculation:
Assuming a 60AH (60 amps for an hour) battery with a 0.35amp drain (my measurements);
60/0.35= 150.
That's 150 hours, the battery should run that piddling little load for over 6 days.
Itls only surface charging mate. The altenator is seeing a healthy voltage at the battery terminals and stopping charging, the battery is just weak.
My old battery was only 4 years old.
These hi spec omegas have a lot of kit that runs on after the engine switches off. I found 3 fans under the bonnet, - that coupled with alarm current, interior light timers, immobiliser timers, and that sort of thing was killing my old battery within 10 mins after a long journey. I was expecting the battery to be getting a right old boiling, but it weren't, just a surface charge - cos it was knackered.
You can prove the battery is bad yourself, like this:
Charge it for a few days, maybe over the weekend, On Monday it'll seem like a new car, by the end of the week it'll be struggling to start.
A bit of a long spiel, i know. I hope it's useful though.