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[anV6]

Not even sure the police here ever used them. I don't think so. Regardless it will be very difficult to find if they did use them. I have never seen them for sale.

Swiss, Austrians and Germans all did

Good to know. But I haven't seen any for sale around though.

[anV6]

3.2 all day long...

1. It's newer, so the car it is attached to will be less rusty.
2. It has less emissions plumbing.
3. It has a forged crank, which makes it the preferred choice for tuning as it's less likely to snap.
4. Last but not least, 3.2 sounds better than 2.5.

 

Well, but to be honest I'm gravitating towards the 3.0. By all accounts it can be tuned more easily and get you more power than the 3.2. But the 3.2 seems to be hard to improve over it's stock 218hp.

Addressing your list point by point:

1. Yes, this seems to be the only real advantage. But if I can find a lower mileage 3.0  it wouldn't matter much. The 3.2 can only be 3 years newer. The 3.0 was made till 2000.

2. Ok. Duly noted, thanks.

3. But it seems you can install the 3.2 forged crank in the 3.0. Since I may working the engine anyway, this is a minor thing. Way easier than to have to replace the auto gearbox in the 3.2 with a manual. Because I must have a manual. I do not want an automatic. 

4. Well, I'm not considering the 2.5. Only the 3.0 

[zirk]

Not even sure the police here ever used them. I don't think so. Regardless it will be very difficult to find if they did use them. I have never seen them for sale.

Swiss, Austrians and Germans all did

Good to know. But I haven't seen any for sale around though.

Ex Police, you probably wont, as said not many around now, those who wanted them as keepers are keeping them, those who wanted them to drift have probably killed them, the rest probably got scrapped with people wanting the LSD and Stronger Suspension set up.

10 years ago you almost couldn't give them away.

[Doctor Gollum]

Disposal processes may well vary from country to country... Here they end up at public auction.

[anV6]

Yes, I very much doubt I will be able to find an ex-police Omega around here. But I will keep my eyes open for sure.

By the way, does the Omega B share much with the Omega A? Specially in terms of chassis and suspension?

And how much trouble is it to switch front ends between the Omega B1 and B2? Are the headlights the same and only bumper and hood are different?

[anV6]

Ok. I have made the decision to search for a 3.0 manual in great nick with as low mileage as possible.

But I will not pass on a 3.2 auto for a great price if it's in great nick. I will then convert it to manual. But it needs to be in absolutely great nick and for a great price.

Now I'm just undecided if I should absolutely go for a B2 or if B1 would be fine too. Since the 3.0 is available with both. But I'm not familiar wit the real differences. So I will start another thread about that.

[Doctor Gollum]

Being in euroland,  how about the 2.5 DTi and chip it...

Just saying

[anV6]

Is it a diesel? If yes, then nope. I want a petro.

[Doctor Gollum]

Straight 6 Bmw lump with 150bhp... Can be retuned to Bmw outputs or potentially replaced with a 3.5 lump and we'll over 200bhp...

But yes, diesel

[anV6]

But if you have to work just to get 200bhp, why not just stick with the 3.0 which has 207bhp outight?

[TheBoy]

So is the 3.2 better, and that much better than the 3.0 to warrant buying one and doing a manual conversion rather than just buying a manual 3.0?

Depends what you want to achieve.

If its a simple "whats best without doing too much" then without doubt, the 3.0l is the superior engine.  I have one of each currently sat on the driveway, and have been lucky enough to have driven hundreds of the bloody things, more than enough to confirm my 2 aren't unique in their power characteristics.

Anyone claiming otherwise either had a dog of a 3.0l, or an "Imber-ised" 3.2.  Or has poor memory of the other.


Both can be remapped (replacing eprom in 3.0l, flashed in 3.2) to give usable gains. Anything else will start to cost proper money for tiny gains.

The 3.0l can benefit from 3.2 exhaust manifolds, and the 3.2 can benefit from 3.0l downpipes/cats.  The benefits are probably not enough to warrant the effort and expenditure unless they needed removing anyway.

[anV6]

So is the 3.2 better, and that much better than the 3.0 to warrant buying one and doing a manual conversion rather than just buying a manual 3.0?

Depends what you want to achieve.

If its a simple "whats best without doing too much" then without doubt, the 3.0l is the superior engine.  I have one of each currently sat on the driveway, and have been lucky enough to have driven hundreds of the bloody things, more than enough to confirm my 2 aren't unique in their power characteristics.

Anyone claiming otherwise either had a dog of a 3.0l, or an "Imber-ised" 3.2.  Or has poor memory of the other.


Both can be remapped (replacing eprom in 3.0l, flashed in 3.2) to give usable gains. Anything else will start to cost proper money for tiny gains.

The 3.0l can benefit from 3.2 exhaust manifolds, and the 3.2 can benefit from 3.0l downpipes/cats.  The benefits are probably not enough to warrant the effort and expenditure unless they needed removing anyway.

Thanks! It is great to hear from somebody who has both.

How much power would you say remapping really adds? Do you have your 3.0 and 3.2 remapped?


I would also be very interesting in what you think of the 2 sets of suggestions to enhance performance posted on this thread.

To make it easier for you to find, I will just repost them here:


Suggestion 1:


   "1. 3.2 Liter - Engine Block w/ all its internal parts, Exhaust Manifolds, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Head Gaskets

   2. 3.0 Liter - Intake Plenum, Velocity Stacks, Fuel Delivery System, Throttle Bodies, TPS, Intake & Exhaust Cams, Exhaust Valves, Oil     Pan, ECU, Sensors, Ancillary Components, and "Front Pipe" (modified flange)

   3. 2.5 Liter - Saab 900 Cylinderheads (intake passages require porting)

After all this we end up with a 200cc displacement increase, a stronger crankshaft, a higher compression ratio, the best camshafts, the best fuel delivery set-up, freer flowing "factory headers", and an increase in horsepower anywhere from 20 to 30HP over the 220 HP of the stock 3.2L V6 plus more useable torque, all with stock GM parts. Sounds easier than swapping in an SC3800 V6 or an LS1 V8, doesn't it? True, not as powerful than either of those two but with them you'd have to do lots of custom fabrication, and maybe install a stronger transmission."




Suggestion 2:

"3.2 inlet with injectors or fit 3.0 and the FPR from a 2.6/3.2 (slight increased rail pressure, worth having as it costs nothing)
3.2/3.0 inlet divider plate
2.5/2.6 heads which must be ported to match the inlet divider (2.5/2.6 heads have smaller ports than the 3.0/3.2) and 3.0/3.2 exhaust valves (sodium filled)
3.0 cams
3.2 bottom end
2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds
2.5/3.0 front pipes and cats
3.0 electronics including DIS pack ecu etc with EGR blanked/removed and SAI removed

This gives the better injection setup (3.0), largest cc (3.2 which includes forged crank) with compression ratio restored (2.5/2.6 heads have a smaller combustion chamber), best flowing inlet and exhaust setup.
If you're really after making the best of the best, this is the way. As for just buying either a 3.0 or a 3.2, then it's apples and oranges, horses for courses. (sorry if they're meaningless English phrases, what I mean is there's advocates and reasons to own either)


Thanks for your input.

[Doctor Gollum]

What you overlook is that the stock 2.5 DTi produces as much torque as the 3.2

[anV6]

What you overlook is that the stock 2.5 DTi produces as much torque as the 3.2

But the stock 2.5 DTi is listed as outputting 148bhp and the 3.2 is listed as outputting 215bhp. 

[Doctor Gollum]

What you overlook is that the stock 2.5 DTi produces as much torque as the 3.2

But the stock 2.5 DTi is listed as outputting 148bhp and the 3.2 is listed as outputting 215bhp. 

Torque is the same though...