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[doughall]

£400 private! I feel like such a boob!  

[Craig_R]

Dont Worry About Code 31 if the engine was not running the crack sensor needs the engine running to pick it up

I bet you could get all the parts you need from a scrapper.

Just depends on the Cambelt if its slipped.

When was the cambelt and tensoner's last changed ?

[doughall]

Cambelt.. - 20000 miles ago..

[doughall]

Just depends on the Cambelt if its slipped.

Is there anyway I can check? (Being that I'm not a mechanic. :-) )

[Craig_R]

As I say its not really my field V6 Lumps as Mine is a 4Pot But i did watch James change Chris's V6 Cambelt.

Any V6 God's can correct me at any time

You will need to remove the Aux Belt first and then remove the Cambelt cover you can then check the belt for damage or missing teeth to check to see if its slipped i would buy the V6  cambelt change DVD from here on the forum its only acouple of quid.

craig

[doughall]

Thanks Craig

[Taxi_Driver]

129 Came up 3 times. Dunno what it is..

129 is EGR valve.

[doughall]

129 Came up 3 times. Dunno what it is..

129 is EGR valve.

On my list, thats 132-134 inclusive..

[x25xe]

If the EGR valve is stuck open then this would cause running issues like you describe.  You can always blank this off and see if the running improves.  If so, you have found your fault and it won't have cost you anything apart from a bit of time.

[Kevin Wood]

Firstly I would look for any connectors around the engine that are not plugged in. Check the wiring inside the cable trays that run across the passenger side cylinder head and across the front of the cam cover for damage.

Secondly, a lot of this seems to point to the EGR and air injection systems, and, in fact, if these systems have issues, it may well be causing the Lambda sensors to misread by leaking air when it's not supposed to! So that's most of that depressing list taken care of!

Have a look at the pipework and wiring to the EGR valve on the driver's side of the inlet plenum and make sure it's all intact and not blowing exhaust gas. Do the same for the air injection pipe which runs across the front of the cam covers and back to both exhaust manifilds. Check the rubber secitons of hose aren't split or blowing exhaust gas.

Thirdly I would check both Oxygen sensors, which are screwed into the exhaust downpipes. Make sure their connections are secure.

Let us know if you find anything and we'll take it from there.

Kevin

[Matchless]

Thats far too many codes to be simple sensor failure etc.
Have a good look at the big connectors next to the battery, I wonder if one isnt latched in properly.
Otherwise follow the loom from the big connectors and look for damage, its showing egr and intake codes so would guess at the loom branch running across the front of the engine.

[doughall]

If the EGR valve is stuck open then this would cause running issues like you describe.  You can always blank this off and see if the running improves.  If so, you have found your fault and it won't have cost you anything apart from a bit of time.

Thanks for your advise!
Althought there is one problem with that! I have no idea what you just said! HeHe!   i'm an Omega virgin.
Could you explain that to me as if I'm 12 years old, pref with pictures! :-)
Sorry to be a drag, but thanks!  

[ians]

I think you should be able to lossen off the cambelt cover enough to prise it away at the top - careful you don't crack it though. May need the cable tray undoing first.  You need to be able to see the top of the cams and the notches on the back plate.

Turn the crank clockwise until the notch alligns with the pointer (at c 2 o'clock if I recall correctly) then see if the markings on the cams are in allignment with the backplate - if they are nowhere to be seen then you will need to turn the crank one more turn to bring the cams into allignment.
You are looking to see if the cams are out by a couple of teeth.

This is a quick and dirty method just to check, not to time it up properly if you end up replacing it - you need to borrow a cam timing kit for that.  To properly strip it down involves removing the black air trumpets at the front , the alloy secondary air pipework, aux belt, cable tray, and some pulleys (I recall) - nothing difficult but takes a bit of time.

One thing though - you said the cambelt was changed 20k ago.  Did that include the rollers and tensioner? - could be that the tensioner has slipped.    If in doubt it would be worth getting the whole timing belt/rollers/tensioner kit changed.

Cheers

Ian

[Admin]

Hmmm, based on the codes and the behaviour, I would suspect a blocked exhaust, most likely a blocked cat.

At 5k rpm or so, it won't "jump" a tooth or 2 on the cams, it will let go in a very impressive manner!

[doughall]

Hmmm, based on the codes and the behaviour, I would suspect a blocked exhaust, most likely a blocked cat.

At 5k rpm or so, it won't "jump" a tooth or 2 on the cams, it will let go in a very impressive manner!

Thats good to know..   Phew!


With regards to the EGR Blanking off post above.. What does that entail?