Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please check the Forum Guidelines at the top of the Newbie section

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate  (Read 2821 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« on: 11 February 2017, 18:59:50 »

Here she is then. My new Omega.


That's after my first test drive yesterday. I then took her for an MOT, which she failed on diesel leak (expected), hole in the exhaust (expected) and cracked rear spring (not expected).


Having confirmed that the diesel leak is the top cover on the pump, and in theory easy to sort, I found a garage to fit a new spring.
Old one on the left.


Yes, the springs are different. Seems springs for self-levelling Omegas are NLA. We didn't have a lot of choice other than fit the 'wrong' spring that had been delivered.

Trying to get a fuel pump gasket on a Saturday morning proved a nightmare, so I had to give it up and deploy bodgery to stem the flow. I taped the exhaust, which'll do until I can get new bits. The result? An MOT pass!

The pump is still leaking though, so I'm not going to use the car until I sort it. If it's just the lid gasket, is that an easy job to do at home? Is it worth taking off the manifold to improve access?

Other issues are as follows:
1. Brake pipes an advisory for rust. Rightly so. I think they need changing.
2. Driver's heated seat not working.
3. Gear selector occasionally refuses to release from P (happily, I found the yellow switch bodge on Google)
4. Occasionally seems to lose power. Just feels really flat. Hoping I haven't got a tank full of algae (car has been sitting for about 18 months). A full service is on the cards.
5. Stereo no longer working. It's an aftermarket unit, but it was working yesterday.
6. A relay clicks repeatedly if I go over a bump.
7. Could really do with rusty bits cleaning and rust-converting. No holes yet, but surface rust here and there.

Overall, not bad, but definitely room for improvement. Sorting the diesel leak is the biggest priority. I've already covered over 200 miles in it. Here are a few more pics.




Oh yeah, needs the bonnet struts replacing!

Logged

2boxerdogs

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #1 on: 11 February 2017, 19:03:50 »

Looks pretty good 😉
Logged

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #2 on: 11 February 2017, 21:05:52 »

Hmmm. Apart from half the pics not working and the others being oversized. Clearly this forum doesn't behave like others I use. I shall see if I can tweak...

EDIT - oh. I don't seem to be able to edit the original post.
« Last Edit: 11 February 2017, 21:08:37 by Dollywobbler »
Logged

annihilator

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Wirral
  • Posts: 741
    • 2 Jags XKR/JR
    • View Profile
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #3 on: 12 February 2017, 18:42:31 »

noticed you use wordpress,better check this just in case

https://arstechnica.com/security/2017/02/virally-growing-attacks-on-unpatched-wordpress-sites-affects-2m-pages/

nice motor by the way   :y
John
Logged

mantaray

  • Intermediate Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Coventry
  • Posts: 282
    • View Profile
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #4 on: 12 February 2017, 19:23:20 »

The pump is still leaking though, so I'm not going to use the car until I sort it. If it's just the lid gasket, is that an easy job to do at home? Is it worth taking off the manifold to improve access?

Did this job last year.

Yes removeing the inlet manifold will inprove access, and is well worth the time.

There are 2 gaskets that tend to leak, so worth replacing both while you have the pump apart.

Remember to mark up pump before undoing any bolts, the position of the top plate regulats fuel flow, and must go back on in the same position.

There are loads of youtube vidios on how to do it, most are for VWs, but it is the same pump as the Omega
Logged
2.6 CDX Auto Estate,
71 Opel Manta A Series 2.5 V6

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #5 on: 12 February 2017, 19:37:34 »

The pump is still leaking though, so I'm not going to use the car until I sort it. If it's just the lid gasket, is that an easy job to do at home? Is it worth taking off the manifold to improve access?

Did this job last year.

Yes removeing the inlet manifold will inprove access, and is well worth the time.

There are 2 gaskets that tend to leak, so worth replacing both while you have the pump apart.

Remember to mark up pump before undoing any bolts, the position of the top plate regulats fuel flow, and must go back on in the same position.

There are loads of youtube vidios on how to do it, most are for VWs, but it is the same pump as the Omega

Thanks. That's exactly the sort of thing I'm glad to hear. I've also heard there are two different seal kits. Is that true? Don't want to order up the wrong one. Just need the weather to calm down a bit - blowing a gale here at the moment. My bonnet struts are struggling enough to cope as it is...
Logged

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #6 on: 14 February 2017, 14:39:55 »

Here's a video of the Collection Caper. Couldn't just go for the easy option could I?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x28N2NzaaxM
Logged

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #7 on: 15 February 2017, 19:57:18 »

Got the manifold off a couple of days ago. Just waiting for the seals. I'm pretty sure these are the only leaky bits.


The black and blue pipe was not connected to anything, but looking at other threads, I'm guessing it's related to the EGR valve. Wonder if it's a possible reason that the car feels rather sluggish? At times, it feels very sluggish indeed.
Logged

Dollywobbler

  • Guest
Re: Dollywobbler's dirty diesel - Elite auto estate
« Reply #8 on: 18 February 2017, 16:30:17 »

Seals arrived earlier than expected this morning, so I cracked on. What a faff! Once I stopped dropping manifold nuts, it wasn't too bad really, but I got it running nicely, put the manifold on, and it started running really badly - surging and producing spectacular clouds of clag. That'll be not quite right then! So, back off with the manifold and tried again. This time, I left it running while I made the adjustments. Sure enough, having got the pump alignment bob on, it then went off again as I screwed it down. Tapped it forward a little more, screwed it down, job done. Runs beautifully now.

Mind you, after a week of no use, the battery was dead. Perhaps that's why the alarm has been going off - low voltage. It needed a helping hand...


Having to connect it up to my Honda every time I wanted to start it was a bit of a faff too.

Question though. When I dismantled it, there were no pipes connected to the EGR controller on the air intake. I spotted the black-with-blue-stripe pipe sitting there not connected to anything, so have now attached it. It looks like another pipe is missing though. Should there be another one?
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.029 seconds with 21 queries.