Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: jayrudd74 on 12 October 2007, 14:02:15
-
just bought a 1999, 3.0 omega mv6,manual , 77500 miles,£1000 ex plod car.only had it from tuesday got in the car to drive to work this morning(friday),started the car up but when i came to put the car in reverse it would not engage,then i tryed to get it into any gear but no luck,anybody any advice please!p.s did notice when the engine was turned off it would go into gear,and would drive but when changing gear was very rough! thanks
-
Clutch drag?
-
Is it leaking coolant from the rear (ie HBV), as this can cause the clutch to drag apparently.
There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd. I'm sure a regular will be able to answer that one soon.
-
There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd.
I had to do that on a Granada 4x4 to free the contaminated clutch when starting.
Engage third gear, depress clutch, and start engine. Gets a bit of a jolt :) , but
frees it off to change gear until you next stop.
Check your clutch fluid level and bleed it, seeing as you're getting rough changes.
Check clutch hydraulic pipes for leakage.
Check bellhousing for engine or gearbox oil leaks due to possible seal failures,
allowing gearbox or engine oil to contaminate the clutch.
Check gearbox oil level in case some muppet has over filled it.
-
might seem a bit dim here but only had the car 3 days and its the first time ive opened the bonnet where do i check the gearbox oil level and the clutch level!sorry for my ignorance
-
It's a combined brake and clutch fluid reservoir next to the drivers side suspension
strut, just behind your coolant header tank.
-
plenty brake/clutch fluid there,cant see any coolant leaks either
-
Is it leaking coolant from the rear (ie HBV), as this can cause the clutch to drag apparently.
There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd. I'm sure a regular will be able to answer that one soon.
[/highlight] ;D ;D ;D
-
guess i will just srcap it,stealers(vauxhall) charge £72 an hour over here in belfast!think the guy i bought it off had a stripey jumper and had a swag bag so i cant win!!! :'( :'(
-
guess i will just srcap it,stealers(vauxhall) charge £72 an hour over here in belfast!think the guy i bought it off had a stripey jumper and had a swag bag so i cant win!!! :'( :'(
That sounds a bit hasty :o I dont know what your cars worth because of limited info on your profile. If your not into spanner twirling yourself you may be able to find a good independent garage who will do the work far cheaper than the main stealers :y
-
The fluid level is checked by removing the level plug, and filling until it just comes out (as are most manual cars on the market).
£72 is cheap - my local dealer is £85 per hour. London ones over £100. But find a good indepedent for half those rates...
-
Could also be that the clutch itself is knackered. Not in so far as it slips, but rather the some or all of the diaphragm springs are broken. This would certainaly cause the issues you describe.
This happened to me recently, the clutch went in my Transit van - I was stopped at the bottom of a hill at red lights at the time - the only gear that would engage was 5th! That was fun. The only way I could engage reverse was by turning the engine off, engaging reverse and starting again. Van was moving with the clutch fully depressed.
Popped a new clutch in and all was well again. The diaphragm springs were shot - because a previous cowboy mechanic fitted a clutch plate that was too small.
Hope this helps
-
guess i will just srcap it
Can't believe I've just read that, especially on a manual MV6 with
77,500 on the clock! (I assume your mileage wasn't a typo?)
Have you done any of the checks I and others listed? They won't cost much and you can
do them yourself.
Check again at the bellhousing (big bulbous lump in between your engine and gearbox).
You are looking at the top for coolant leaks that are finding their way down to the
clutch plates.
You are looking at the bottom for signs of engine oil (Rear crankshaft seal failing and
contaminating the clutch with engine oil). Gearbox oil, (gearbox input shaft seal failure
contaminating the clutch with gearbox oil). Hydraulic fluid, (indicating a leak in the clutch
slave cylinder or pipework and an inability for the clutch to disengage with associated
difficult gear changes).
Instead of checking the gearbox oil which would entail jacking the car level, just change
it. One drain plug to empty it, one filler plug to undo to pour 1.2 litres of fresh fluid in.
Bleed the clutch in case the fluid level has run low and allowed air into the system. Air
compresses and hydraulic fluid doesn't, so if you have air you will just compress it instead of
disengaging the clutch. This is a one man job with a non return valve bleeding kit, or a
two man job with one man pressing slowly on the clutch pedal and one man opening
and closing the bleed screw on the gearbox.
If nothing works, then you disconnect the propshaft and remove the gearbox to check
and replace clutch and/or the slave cylinder.
Don't throw in the towel quite this early in the diagnosis period. :)
-
not looked at the car since last week,as ive been working away,thats why i have not replied to any your advice(thanks)jumped in the car today and i have noticed that the clutch pedal is not returning back up fully,when i put my foot under the pedal and lift it up it will then go into gear.would i be right in thinking the clutch is not adjustable with it being hydraulic.any clues thanks
-
no mate it adjusts it self could just need the clutch bleeding bud !! :y
-
when i put my foot under the pedal and lift it up it will then go into gear
I assume you mean that everything works when you've pushed the clutch pedal back
down again after lifting it back with your foot prior to pushing it down.
This may indicate that your clutch Master Cylinder has an internal leak and that when
you operate it via the clutch pedal, that fluid is being forced back through the Master
Cylinder seals instead of pressurising the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder that
operates your clutch.
Depending on the leakage rate, pulling back the clutch pedal with your foot may
give you enough temporary pressure to operate the clutch before enough fluid
leaks past the seals to limit the 'push' range of your clutch operating system.
This would mean that you will have to change the clutch master cylinder.
But this is a lot cheaper than paying to have the clutch or gearbox replaced
at a garage with a large labour charge. You can change it yourself for the
price of the item and fluid.
But bleed it first (just the cost of some fluid), and check the clutch pedal
linkage and return spring for security and operation (costs nothing but time).
Good luck, and in answer to your previous statement, no, you shouldn't be
thinking about scrapping it. :)
-
ended up taking it over to an independent garage today(missus's cousin own it) as it was quite clear today after driving it, the clutch was away.he reckons £300-£350 for a good clutch fitted,used to work in a vauxhall garage himself, which i didnt know!is this about right,hope so coz i told him to get it done,just thought i let you lot no with giving me some good info,cheers
-
Just to clear up a few points up here.
A worn clutch will normally slip, which would mean that you can change
gear very easily.
Difficult gear changing is often a fault in the clutch operating circuit or
a contaminated clutch dragging.
You say you are replacing the clutch, so you're betting on a contaminated
or damaged clutch (broken spring etc..).
So make sure that you examine the clutch area when the gearbox is off.
If you see signs of fluid contamination, you must fix the leak before you fit
the new clutch, or you'll end up with the same problem.
Whilst you have the gearbox off, if you are intending keeping the car, replace
the concentric clutch slave cylinder whilst your at it.
I still say that you should check out the clutch hydraulic system and operating
linkage before going to this expense. But as always, it's your decision.
Keep us posted, to expand our knowledge base, and good luck.
-
Just been reading the thread below. Click and have a read and a look
at the pics. It will show you what you're looking for.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192813243
-
well now you say it, he did mention something about replacing the slave cylinder while it was stripped down,the clutch in the end was well gone,it was so crunchy to go into gear,only had to let my foot of the clutch and it would just drive,and also the clutch pedal was more or less touching the floor in the end.
-
You said the guy doing it is a relative and Vauxhall trained.
Family doesn't usually rip off family, so he'll probably see you right. :y
Just get your cheque book dusted off. :D
-
at the end of the day ive only paid 1k with 77500 miles on the clock,so i think its worth spending money on,i personally think its alot of car for 1k.there is one for sale in autotrader same year,make,model,mileage,spec,etc hope your sat down £2700+
-
at the end of the day ive only paid 1k with 77500 miles on the clock,so i think its worth spending money on,i personally think its alot of car for 1k.there is one for sale in autotrader same year,make,model,mileage,spec,etc hope your sat down £2700+
Nothing unusual there then. Some people try there hardest to sell there cars at a very high price, more thatn they are actually worth, so when some one knocks them down in price they winge like mad. If I was to sell my car on then I would sell it for what it is worth for it's age regardless the milage, year or condition. These day's you don't get a lot for these Omega's as they depreciate very very quickly. I sold my 2000 w reg omega for £1200 a few months ago cos thats all i would get for her, so it looks like you got a little overpriced car IMHO. Its alway's best to start getting used to the workings of your car and become familiar with it as well at least that way you can start making the repairs yourself and save yourself alot of money.
Before I joined this forum I did do all the work myself but when it came to all the harder stuff I gave it to the garage to do and alway's ended up with a big bill, but now with the knowledge of the members on here I have saved myself a few quid so far. You will always get help and good advice from the members on here. We are all here to help. Oh and good luck with the car hope it gets sorted.
Paul :y