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Messages - pedroMV6

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 94
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Still Having Issues!
« on: 24 March 2011, 18:01:56 »
I haven't cut any wiring, merely unplugged to re-use if need be. :y

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Still Having Issues!
« on: 23 March 2011, 20:47:54 »
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Not an ideal solution, and by no means a repair of the problem, but could you just power up the motor directly or manually crank them to get them out of the way?
Yeah, but I'll still have these issues to sort after the truck  build!
 ;)

I know, that's why I said not ideal ;)

But it would mean you could crack on and keep an eye out for broken wires etc as you were working ;)

I hear ya! ;)
Al's had a great idea and it's got me thinkin'..................

3
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Still Having Issues!
« on: 23 March 2011, 20:46:50 »
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Just a thought Pete. Any mice living under the scuttle by the pollen filter?  :-/

iirc, all the power from the battery/ alternator, (plus various other wires) run through the bulkhead beneath the scuttle, don't suppose it would take too much nibbling to fubar that lot.

Also have you perhaps disturbed the kick panels in either foot well? The plugs there don't need much of a knock to unplug themselves.

Al :y

Hmmm, good idea, there Al!
No mice, but I have unpluigged a fair few connectors, so will check up on them. ;)

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Still Having Issues!
« on: 22 March 2011, 19:36:19 »
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Not an ideal solution, and by no means a repair of the problem, but could you just power up the motor directly or manually crank them to get them out of the way?
Yeah, but I'll still have these issues to sort after the truck  build!
 ;)

5
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Still Having Issues!
« on: 20 March 2011, 14:34:11 »
Still can't get the electrics in the seats to work, so still can't get them and the carpets out. Bit of a bugger, but the climate is dead, so are the clocks and radio, although the wiring for the Bose speakers, sub and amp has been unplugged removed.
Interior light also no longer works.
Fuses all seem to be OK, even tested those that are relevant and all fine.  :-/

Any ideas?
I really need the seats and carpets out before I start with the sparkly wand!  :D

6
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OK.  First things first.

Unplug everything on that circuit and then plug them in one-by-one until you find the fault.

Remove every bulb in the interior lights to start (including the boot bulb).  Physically disconnect the main Interior light (this has a PCB and may be causing a problem, even with no bulb.
Unplug the Drivers Seat (careful not to play with the Airbags (if fitted)).
Unplug the Stereo.
Unplug the CC Panel.
Unplug the MID.

Dont turn the ignition on with the clocks out, this will turn on the AirBag light.

I had this exact same fault (except mine would randomly blow Fuse 15, but not always).

After tracing what seemed like miles of cable, I couldn't find the fault so as mentioned above, ran a fused live feed direct from the battery to all the devices on the circuit.  This cured the problem, leaving me to believe NONE of the devices were at fault, but a problem in a 'impossible to get to' section of loom.

HTH

I shall have a go one night this week, fella.  :y
Again, thanks! ;)

7
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2000MY 2.5 V6 Elite.

When I disconnected the battery some months ago, all seemed well - I did reconnect it briefly and had these problems, (might have asked then) but now I need to get on with the Truck.

So, I had moved the electric memory seats as far forward as they will go, reconnected battery tonight and Nothing. Nil. Nowt. Nada.

Driver's seat seems to have no power and won't move - I'm assuming the passenger's seat will be the same.
i can't see any manual crank of any kind - is there one?
Battery is now on charge till tomorrow night.
I really to remove the seats and carpets to start welding this truck up.

As an aside, the heating system won't switch n either - bit of a noise when button id pressed for about 5 seconds, but again, nothing, nil, nowt, nada.

Fuses would appear to be OK under the dash - anywhere else to look?
 :( :( :(

The Drivers Seat and Climate Panel are on the same circuit (Fuse 15 IIRC).

Other items on this circuit are the Interior Lights, Stereo, MID and Dash Clocks.

I had a problem with this circuit on my old Omega and couldn't trace the fault.  I ended up running a new 'live' to all of the items on this circuit.

Cheers, Mr. Mate - the stereo doesn't switch on and the MID doesn't light up either - will try another fuse in 15 then.  :y

*EDIT* Tried two good fuses and still nowt! :(

8
Thanks Mr. V6. :y

If all else fails, read the destructions.
Rule number 1 and I ****ing forgot it!!! ;D

Still need to sort the climate control out though..........

9
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....
i can't see any manual crank of any kind - is there one? ......

Originally the car would have had a mini crank handle to manually move the leccy seat forwards & backwards. There's a square hole under the seat to take a 4mm ? square drive.
HTH

Aye, someone said so on ABS, but buggered if I can see owt, mate. Saying that, I might not have had my reading spex on..............
 :-[
Where's the hole, exactly?


10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Elite Lecky Front Seats & Heater
« on: 30 January 2011, 20:28:08 »
2000MY 2.5 V6 Elite.

When I disconnected the battery some months ago, all seemed well - I did reconnect it briefly and had these problems, (might have asked then) but now I need to get on with the Truck.

So, I had moved the electric memory seats as far forward as they will go, reconnected battery tonight and Nothing. Nil. Nowt. Nada.

Driver's seat seems to have no power and won't move - I'm assuming the passenger's seat will be the same.
i can't see any manual crank of any kind - is there one?
Battery is now on charge till tomorrow night.
I really to remove the seats and carpets to start welding this truck up.

As an aside, the heating system won't switch n either - bit of a noise when button id pressed for about 5 seconds, but again, nothing, nil, nowt, nada.

Fuses would appear to be OK under the dash - anywhere else to look?
 :( :( :(

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: bose speakers, amp and loom.
« on: 11 January 2011, 19:24:56 »
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Got to be honest. I have an elite estate and a and mV6 estate, one has bose, one doesn't. Whats the difference, not a lot really

I kinda see yer point, but the Bose system was much older than the MV6 system.
The Bose in the truck is waaaay better than the MV6. :y

Have a nice day off tomorrow, I'll sort yer work for yer..........
 ;D ;D ;D

......as usual!


12
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At the moment I have two large holes on the metal rear shelf where the woofers used to be (hidden under the Bose speaker grilles).

I seem to recall someone (probably TheBoy but might have been DaveDND) saying that the standard speakers were only good for 8 watts. I didn't think I was likely to wind the volume up enough to notice TBH but maybe I do ::)

Manufacturers figures for amplifier output are often unreliable. If my headunit is capable of turning out 4x25 watts (total 100 watts) of 'quality' sound then I think I will be well chuffed :y

Don't work like that!

13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: HID v Halogen
« on: 17 August 2010, 21:03:06 »
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HIDs have a power supply which fire up (which is why they "flash" when powered up) at a couple of thousand volts and then back-off to run at a hundred volts or so. The power supply is the metal box screwed to the headlight and have an "HT" cable to the bulb.

The technology is the same principle ss a flourescent light - and also the backlight on a LCD tv.

The inrush current when HIDs fire up is very high - at about 20amps, this reduces down to about 3amps when they stabilise which takes a few minutes.

 :y

Just a couple of ordinary wires inside......... ;)

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Code reader
« on: 29 July 2010, 19:00:27 »
Aah, I see - fair play! :y

So does my 2.6 need Tech 2 to find out why the flippin' spanner light comes on and stops the sport mode from working and takes about 70 bhp away?
Done this in the last couple of days  - no idea why! ::)

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Code reader
« on: 29 July 2010, 18:50:45 »
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Don't think so, your car does not give obd codes.

Which poses the question what will read it?... :-/

No it won't read codes from a 98. Cheapest option is the laptop based one we can't talk about ;) But I'd be very wary messing with airbag lights using one of those. Best bet would be to find a close(ish) member with a genuine laptop based unit or a Tech2.

AFAIK, we still have 'Freedom of Speech' in the UK, so please - do tell!
(PM me if you prefer dude!) :y

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