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[Pele]

I've had some problems with cam sensor on 4 pot myself.

The easy way (for me) to check if it is the cam sensor, is to remove the spark plug and touch any screw on the top of the engine head, so that you close the electric loop. Second person have to crank the engine (since there will be fuel in piston, please be careful), if there is a spark on the plug it means that the problem is with fuel (ex. fuel pump, fuse etc.) or timing (little possibility).

NOTE: do not touch the engine during test nor the spark plug. Hold the HV cable not the plug.

If there is no spark on plugs (check all 4 of them) than the most possible is the Crankshaft sensor. Of course it might be as well faulty DIS pack or wiring, but as I said on 4 pots the sensor is most possible.

If there will be spark on some plugs, the most possible is DIS pack or wiring from ECU to DIS or HV cables.

Furthermore, I know it is quite hard to change the Crankshaft sensor due to the AC compressor and I know that some change the sensor (I did it ) without removing the AC compressor, it is doable but the problem is the screw holding the sensor to the block, if some one did not tighten it, it might screw itself out and change the readings of the sensor.
Check it

[jay99]

Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration


Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector    so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.

[jay99]

Also I'm not sure if the crank sensor is genuine but if memory serves it cost a lot so it probably was. The AA patrol who connected his computer up said that the crank sensor was sending a signal so I'm not sure if it is the culprit.

Hopefully when I get the rounded plug at least one sensor will be working meaning I can start it hopefully and get it moving.

[Steve B]

Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration


Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector    so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.

Any chance of a picture 

[jay99]

Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration


Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector    so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.

Any chance of a picture 

[plym ian]

That is cheap

hopefully will sort your problem out

I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall

[jay99]

That is cheap

hopefully will sort your problem out

I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall

No wiring though so not much I can do with it unfortunately and if autovaux don't have any then it looks like its going to be a job and a half to get hold of one ((

[Steve B]

There web site says it is a modified version of another part number. 

But it does look like a proper GM part. 

http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product/24445139-sensor-camshaft-6238187-vauxhall-opel.aspx

[jay99]

There web site says it is a modified version of another part number. 

But it does look like a proper GM part. 

http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product/24445139-sensor-camshaft-6238187-vauxhall-opel.aspx

I think the guy who sold it gave me a GM one over the phone but I paid for the second option, the £33 excl vat siemens which totals to £39. I think I got lucky.

[plym ian]

That is cheap

hopefully will sort your problem out

I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall

No wiring though so not much I can do with it unfortunately and if autovaux don't have any then it looks like its going to be a job and a half to get hold of one ((

ask one of the breakers on here if they have the right connector

[terry paget]

I've had some problems with cam sensor on 4 pot myself.

The easy way (for me) to check if it is the cam sensor, is to remove the spark plug and touch any screw on the top of the engine head, so that you close the electric loop. Second person have to crank the engine (since there will be fuel in piston, please be careful), if there is a spark on the plug it means that the problem is with fuel (ex. fuel pump, fuse etc.) or timing (little possibility).

NOTE: do not touch the engine during test nor the spark plug. Hold the HV cable not the plug.

If there is no spark on plugs (check all 4 of them) than the most possible is the Crankshaft sensor. Of course it might be as well faulty DIS pack or wiring, but as I said on 4 pots the sensor is most possible.

If there will be spark on some plugs, the most possible is DIS pack or wiring from ECU to DIS or HV cables.

Furthermore, I know it is quite hard to change the Crankshaft sensor due to the AC compressor and I know that some change the sensor (I did it ) without removing the AC compressor, it is doable but the problem is the screw holding the sensor to the block, if some one did not tighten it, it might screw itself out and change the readings of the sensor.
Check it

Very good point, Pele. Crankshaft sensor is tricky to change. Haynes says remove n/s engine mounting; that is how I have always done it. Phil Rich says it can be done without removing the engine mounting. I have tried, and got as far as putting back the mounting screw, then failed, so had to remove the engine mounting just to put back the screw. If a garage did the job, they may well have got that far, pushed the sensor in, and left the screw out, or left it in the sensor hole but not engaged in the thread in the block. Do check it. You can see it if you remove the dip stick tube.

[terry paget]

Here is a pic of the crank sensor and its locating bolt, with the dip stick tube removed. The large hexagon in the centre is the head of a large bolt sitting in the dip stick tube hole, to stop anything else falling in.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/46jlixseo0hoc5b/crankSENSOR2.2%2040%25.jpg?dl=0

[jay99]

Update:

Wiring harness came today and got a mobile mechanic to fix the cam sensor, fault code gone but would not fire. Checked compression and was OK, checked cambelt and it had not jumped. Tight and in good condition. Crank sensor not at fault as it was giving a reading of 200 rpm or something.

As a last ditch attempt put easystart in, no effect.

But then somehow, he put battery boosters in and fiddled with the leads and it jumped into life. One of the leads is too big to fit or loose and had red sparks flying out of it. Suspect lead/coil pack at fault.

Its running on 3 and misfiring badly but at least its running! Car moved to pay and display car park and £105 out of pocket

[05omegav6]

Stop putting easy start in it

Unless you have a new engine coming for Christmas 

[jay99]

Stop putting easy start in it

Unless you have a new engine coming for Christmas 

It was very cold and I think he ran out of patience. We tried everything else as well. Would the lead problem prevent the engine from starting because I highly doubt it

By the way this engine never properly dies and hasn't done so for the two years I've had it even though its been ragged and shagged its a miracle one.