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[terry paget]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

[chrisgixer]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

I know about the socket method Terry, from conception to penning the guide

Just undo the wheel bearing nut and swap the bearing over. Do not touch the camber bolts to change a wheel bearing.

Jeez. Has everyone gone mental on here lately?

[05omegav6]

Quite possibly

Also run risk of killing the balljoints during removal of the steering knuckle... And that's before we even mention the short sightedness of fitting secondhand bearing assemblies even a cheapy bearing that lasts five minutes is more cost effective, (and easier to fit), than the potential damage that can be caused by disturbing the knuckle

[TheBoy]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

By chrisgixer's (the guide author) own admission, its a method to get it "near enough" to allow you to drive it to a geometry centre to have it done properly.

Members can use whichever method to change a bearing that suits them, hopefully without backlash from members here  . That situation is becoming intolerable 

Personally, I think I'd just change the bearing, although I have twice changed the entire hubs for a variety of reasons (one being that Contiech wheel bearings are utter shite)

[chrisgixer]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

By chrisgixer's (the guide author) own admission, its a method to get it "near enough" to allow you to drive it to a geometry centre to have it done properly.

Members can use whichever method to change a bearing that suits them, hopefully without backlash from members here  . That situation is becoming intolerable 

Personally, I think I'd just change the bearing, although I have twice changed the entire hubs for a variety of reasons (one being that Contiech wheel bearings are utter shite)

....and therefor completely unnecessary.

Of course members can do as they please, clearly. But personally I refuse to stand by and watch bad advise being handed out that will cost the op money. 

THAT is the intolerable aspect.

There may well be a perfectly reasonable reason to change the stub axle as well, but in the absence of a reply as to why the stub axle needs changing, the assumption here is that's it to replace the wheel bearing. If that assumption is true, the op will invite set up costs and considerably more labour for what is a simple half hour job. Or quite possibly suprise tyre wear if not set up.

Re wheel bearing play....It really is just a nut and some leverage, along with wheel, caliper and disc removal. Nothing more.

[TheBoy]

As said, there are perfectly valid reasons to change the hub assembly. Suggesting it doesn't necessarily constitute bad advice, as there may be perfectly valid reasons for doing so.


I'd like to see a return to the old OOF where any question could be met with a response that was welcoming and friendly, and if contradictory, explaining the pros and cons. If I'm suffering severe CBA moments when toying with what forum I should visit on a given evening, and I'm probably as tick skinned as they come, how many members are we losing due to not being able to stomach the unfriendliness/aggression on here?