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Author Topic: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!  (Read 19316 times)

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henryd

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #75 on: 14 January 2015, 20:20:59 »

Any access to a nut gun Terry?,one of them(decent one) will undo crank pulley easily but as has been said do not insert cam locks until after pulley has been loosened.
Yes, I have a compressor and a big (3/4") impact wrench. I bought it to undo the crankshaft nut on my last Senator, but it failed. So  you recommend 5th gear engaged, footbrake hard on (wife) and wrench on max torque, camshft tool not in place. Sounds good to me.

Three quarter gun should make very light work of that,I have a Snap on half inch electric gun and it undoes K pulley nuts very easily
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terry paget

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #76 on: 14 January 2015, 21:41:02 »

Woops! Car is front wheel drive, and the front of the car is on axle stands. I suppose the brakes should hold it, though.
If it all goes pear shaped, you will take pictures, won't you? ;D
Oh yes. I think it has gone pear shaped, those compression figures were worrying. When I drained the coolant it had little colour to it. I wonder if she has been topping it up with water, it got very dilute, and in the frosts before Christmas it froze. I shall find out when I get the head off. Head could be cracked, may need planing, who knows.I expect it to be not worth repairing, this is why I am doing it myself.
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TheBoy

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #77 on: 15 January 2015, 07:32:26 »

This is why I said get a crank locking tool, as I found it 2 person job to lock crank with improvised tool and undo bolt.

Crank imagine that expensive ?  Or Google image of one, and fabricate
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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #78 on: 15 January 2015, 08:55:47 »

This is why I said get a crank locking tool, as I found it 2 person job to lock crank with improvised tool and undo bolt.

Crank imagine that expensive ?  Or Google image of one, and fabricate
Yes. That is the course I was following. Haynes depicts the tool. I have removed the plate opposite the starter. I could fabricate the tool Haynes describes. I cannot see how to ayttach it. Anyway  I would have to lie under the car holding a screwdriver between starter ring teeth while a gorilla heaves on a breaker bar. Wife refuses since she pulled a muscle heaving down an Omega wishbone for me. Nut gun sounds easier, doesn't it! Cam belt is still on, I have removed sprocket locking tool. I cannot see why I should bother to lock crankshaft, can you? I am puzzled why Haynes says lock cams with tool, then remove pulley, in that order.
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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #79 on: 15 January 2015, 18:12:41 »

Nut gun failed! Gun is a Campbell Hausfield 3/4" impact wrench, max torque 1,000 ft.lbs. Set on max torque, still failed to turn nut. I give up. Is it worth applying heat?
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #80 on: 15 January 2015, 18:32:35 »

Even my Makita 1/2" would undo  that. I once used a 3/4" breaker bar and remarked how industrial it looked.
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Nick W

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #81 on: 15 January 2015, 18:44:05 »

Nut gun failed! Gun is a Campbell Hausfield 3/4" impact wrench, max torque 1,000 ft.lbs. Set on max torque, still failed to turn nut. I give up. Is it worth applying heat?

You were using an appropriately sized compressor, hose and connectors for such a large gun? As you won't get anywhere near that torque without.
Even the cheap 1/2" ones benefit from large bore hose.
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terry paget

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #82 on: 15 January 2015, 19:51:33 »

Nut gun failed! Gun is a Campbell Hausfield 3/4" impact wrench, max torque 1,000 ft.lbs. Set on max torque, still failed to turn nut. I give up. Is it worth applying heat?

You were using an appropriately sized compressor, hose and connectors for such a large gun? As you won't get anywhere near that torque without.
Even the cheap 1/2" ones benefit from large bore hose.
Good point, Nick W. Compressor is a decent size, claims to be 12cfm at 100PSI, gun demands 36SCFM continuous but average 6.1CFM, air inlet is 1/4", ok so far. However supply is via a coil of 20m plastic  hose, 14mm OD, ID unknown, sounds too long and this, don't it? I have found on a shelf a never used 10M length of 10mm 2MPA hose, sounds worth a try. Tried it. Air gun turned engine slowly. Put wife in car engage 4th gear, put foot hard on brake pedal, applied air to gun - nut did not turn. I give up.  Should I try heat?
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05omegav6

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #83 on: 15 January 2015, 19:54:15 »

If a breaker bat and scaffold pole are man enough to shift an Omega hub nut, then that should be your first choice :y
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terry paget

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #84 on: 15 January 2015, 20:56:22 »

If a breaker bat and scaffold pole are man enough to shift an Omega hub nut, then that should be your first choice :y
Danger here is lifting the car off its axle stands, Al. It's a fairly light car, access to the crankshaft pulley is only possible with the front of the car on axle stands and the offside wheel off. Give me a scaffolding pole and even I could heave the car over. Also it needs a 5" extension to get the socket on the nut. That would make the scaffolding pole liable to twist off the nut. I think nut gun is the best route. I cannot understand why mine fails.
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05omegav6

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #85 on: 15 January 2015, 21:51:27 »

Fair dos, but you only need to crack it ;)
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Mr Gav

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #86 on: 16 January 2015, 07:38:20 »

I would try a little bit of heat on the nut and give it another go with the impact gun. As it`s been pretty cold and your car has been stood a while everything will be as tight as a submarine door, you can`t drive it to warm the block up so try a blow torch just to try and expand the nut a little.
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #87 on: 16 January 2015, 08:24:21 »

Sod the bottom pulley, whip the head off, you only need the pulley off to refit and time everything.

Just set the crank to 90 before/after TDC and pull the belt.
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terry paget

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #88 on: 17 January 2015, 18:06:36 »

Sod the bottom pulley, whip the head off, you only need the pulley off to refit and time everything.

Just set the crank to 90 before/after TDC and pull the belt.
Thanks Mark. I think that explains how the guy did it before. There is a paint mark on the lower pulley which is probably how he retimed it. After pulling the cam belt and removing the head there is no reason to turn the crank, in fact it sounds wery unwise. So I can then remove bits from the head, expose the head bolts, slacken the central bolts, then turn the cams to reveal the rest, remove the cam sprockets, remove head bolts and remove head. Inspect head, and if good, replace hed gasket, replace head, replace cam sprockets, turn cams to allow insertion of locking tool, replace belt. Turn engine two turns; if lines still aligned, Job done. Does that sound right to you?
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terry paget

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Re: Rover Streetwise (25) engine solid - help!
« Reply #89 on: 17 January 2015, 19:31:18 »

All the above, having first set the engine at 90 degrees BTDC by aligning and locking the cam sprockets.
Having done this, I am tempted to attach n/s front wheel and lower car to ground. Then chock front wheels and put car in 5th gear to ensure crank does nor turn, and facilitate jobs on head, all done from above. Is this a good idea?
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