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Messages - sounds2k

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1
Maintenance Guides / how to: fit a total closure kit
« on: 24 April 2007, 17:06:14 »
this was done on a 52-reg elite estate, but should be very similar for other models.

Basically - if your car has the total closure facility - whereby if you have window(s) and/or sunroof open and you deadlock the doors using the remote with the lock button, holding it down the second time, the sunroof and windows close themselves - this kit will effectively hold the button down for you. So you can deadlock the car with the remote and it will close any open windows and the sunroof for you. The reason for checking is I'm not sure if this facility is standard on all models ...
 
Parts & tools required:

total closure kit from www.totalclosure.com - details here, price as of April 2007 is £30 inc. VAT and delivery
T25 torx screwdriver
10mm nut spinner

optional, but preferable ...

soldering iron (gas powered is ideal)
solder
insulating tape
small sharp knife

NOTE: fitting this unit ideally requires soldering. Whilst the kit comes with Scotchlok connectors, I have yet to come across a professional installer that uses them ... they always seem to stick with soldering ...

The contents of the kit as it arrives:



Firstly, as you will be connecting to a permanent 12V feed, disconnect the battery negative lead - if you have a powered alarm sounder, bear in mind that you need to do this within 15 seconds of switching off the ignition. I open the bonnet, turn on the ignition, then remove the key and undo the nut and remove the lead ...

Remove the driver's side kick panel - there are two T25 head screws holding it in place - one is just under the bonnet release lever, the other is underneath the sill trim panel - I removed the entire sill trim panel to make access easier but it's probably possible to remove just the screws in the driver's sill area and lift the trim enough to gain access to the kick panel screw.

You should then be faced with this:



the immobiliser / central locking control unit is the black box behind the wiring loom. Use a 10mm nut spinner to undo the plastic nuts which hold the wiring loom bracket in place, this also secures the control unit in position. This wiring loom is NOT the one you will be making connections to - so tuck it out of the way around the left of the accelerator cable.

Unplug the two connectors from the immobiliser/central locking control unit, when unplugged they look as shown below:




the smaller plug (with bigger pins) is known as X62, the larger plug (with smaller pins) is X61. If you look at the sides of the connectors, you will see that the pins are numbered to aid identification.

Making the connections

If soldering, you will need to remove some of the insulation (about 5mm), tin the exposed wire, then remove approx. 10-15mm of the end of the wire being connected, wrap that around the exposed part of the wire being joined to (this gives a mechanical as well as electrical connection, so the wires are less likely to come apart), then solder the two together and wrap the joint in insulating tape.

As the total closure unit has its' own internal fuse, I connected its' long red wire to the +12V permanent live - pin 9 on X62 (a 1.5mm red wire)
Black wire of total closure unit connects to earth - pin 11 of X62 (1.5mm brown wire)
Brown wire of total closure unit connects to pin 24 of X61 (0.75mm brown/black wire)
Short red wire of total closure unit connects to pin 8 of X62 (0.75mm red/black wire)
Blue wire of total closure unit connects to pin 10 of X61 (1.5mm blue/black wire)

If you cannot locate ALL of these wires - or are in any doubt - do NOT proceed ...
The instructions supplied with the total closure unit say that the blue wire connects to a thin blue/black wire, but it isn't thin on the Omega - however this is the only blue/black wire on either X61 or X62.

the connections should look something like this (before wrapping each connection with insulating tape) ... for some reason the picture shows most leads as blue ... but you get the idea!!



If soldering, make sure ALL the connections are suitably wrapped with insulating tape, then refit the immobiliser/central locking controller. Try and leave the total closure in the footwell for the time being, with the LED pointing upwards so you can see it.

The end result should be like this:



Now reconnect the battery negative lead, reset the sunroof and window memories (refer to the guide here if required).

Time for testing ... open the sunroof and/or windows, then go outside the car and deadlock it using the remote. You should see the light on the total closure unit illuminating, at which point the sunroof and/or windows should self close. After a few more seconds the light on the total closure unit should extinguish.

If all is OK, unlock the car again and put everything back together - cable tie the wires of the the total closure unit if you like - it then sits nicely above the bonnet release area.

Job done  :y

2
... as recently requested ... this was done on a 52-reg 3.2 estate, but should be very similar for other petrol engined models.

Parts required:

1 x Fuel filter (P/N 25313359)
2 x fuel filter clips (P/N 90542453)
1 x set of fuel clip (or hose clip) pliers

Having done changed the fuel filter on a saloon (which was easy), the filter on the estate is not as easy to do, due to its' location. It sits in front of the fuel tank, roughly in the middle of the car left to right.

To start with - park the car on a level surface and chock the front wheels. Start the engine, then with it running remove fuse 18 (20 Amps - yellow), after a couple of seconds the engine should die - this helps to drain the fuel lines. I then jacked the rear nearside of car up, supported it with an axle stand and removed the offside rear wheel as that's how you get to the filter on a saloon. In retrospect you probably don't need to do this but it does make getting under the car & back out again easier ... do make sure to rock the car so as to ensure it is safe as you will be getting underneath.

I would advise wearing goggles all the time you are under the car, as during removal of the filter you tend to get covered in caked on mud !!

I found the easiest way to get to the filter is not from the side - but from the back of the car - slide in and if you look up at the centre of the car as you slide under, just after the petrol tank but before the diff, you will see the filter - mine was well plastered ...




with the saloon I was able to remove the clips fairly easily, however with the estate you can't drop the filter right down to get good access. I did manage to remove the clips using a pair of hose clip pliers:



- but a set of the proper filter pliers would probably make it easier.

Unclip the strap that holds the filter and drop it down slightly. You should be able to see a label on it, with an arrow giving the fuel flow direction. Essentially you need to press in at both clips at the sides of the connector whilst pulling the connector off the filter. Sounds easy but again, due to the access, it can take a while and is a bit fiddly. If you are careful and do this at arms' length, you shouldn't get an eyeful of petrol either!

Remove the fuel line at the top end of the filter first - ie, the one nearest the front of the car and the top of the filter (using the arrow marked on it). This will have less fuel, you should then be able to angle the filter downwards and drain the fuel out of it into a suitable container. Then remove the other fuel line.

Fit the new fuel filter clips into the ends of the fuel lines - they should click into place - then fit the new filter into the fuel lines, making sure that the fuel flow direction marked on the filter is the same as on the original. It should point towards the front of the car. Then tighten the strap which holds the filter in place. Look for any leaks, there shouldn't be any if the clips have been clicked into place onto the fuel lines and filter.

Then refit fuse 18, start the car (it will take a couple of seconds' cranking), run for a few seconds, then re-check the filter to make sure there are no leaks.

If all is OK, refit the nearside rear roadwheel and lower the car back to the ground. Using the hose clip pliers, I managed to remove the old filter without damaging the clips, but given that they are cheap (approx. 60p each) it's worth replacing them anyway - no clips = no fuel filter = no car  :'(

my original filter (with its' clips) looked like this after removal:



then pat yourself on the back for a job well done and wash all the mud off your face  :y

3
some people have noticed that when closing and opening the front door on an omega (especially the driver's door as it gets more use) that there is a kind of cracking noise.

A "fix" for this is documented on the omega owners' group on yahoo (largely cribbed off TIS by the looks of it) - but I tried this and it did NOT fix the problem. Worth doing though, as it will stop the internal bracket tearing which isn't good!

What did fix the problem though, is also replacing the plastic bushes that fit between the check strap and the big bolt that fixes it to the bracket on the 'A' pillar, as shown below:



Parts required and their RETAIL pricing:

4 x 9195961 (reinforcement plate) @ £1.04 each
4 x 13104167 (longer torx head bolts) @ £0.12 each
2 x 90462823 (plastic bush) @ £0.19 each
total cost: £5.02 + VAT = £5.90.

don't believe Vx if they tell you that the part numbers are invalid !!

Procedure

First off, the repair plates I bought (helpfully) had a nice sticky label on each one with the part number. Ideally use proper label remover to get them off as you need to paint the brackets to prevent rust. I found that the Maplin label remover (part no. N63AN, £2.99 per can) does a very good job.

You also need to cut down at least two of the brackets - cut off the top 8mm or so and round off the corners, turn 180 degrees and repeat. The info I've read differs - one source says do both brackets for each door, the Vx field rememedy info says to do just the outer one. I'd already done both anyway ... once this is done, paint the brackets to prevent rust.

So for each door you will have two brackets, two screws and one plastic bush. The brackets and screws should be similar to this:



before installation, the door check strap fitting to the door looks like this:



Start by removing the door card (see Haynes manual page 11.8 if needed), then the front speaker. Note that removal of the plastic sheet is NOT needed for this job - so no problems if you've got side airbags fitted.

The hardest part I found was removing the door locking knob - the Haynes manual makes it look so easy to remove the clip - but it's best done with a sharp knife initially to make a suitable gap as it's a tight fit otherwise. If it's been removed before then it shouldn't be a problem.

to remove the check strap itself, use an 8mm socket - alternating between the top and bottom bolts. When they are out, remove the pin in the 'A' pillar bracket. This will require two 10mm spanners initially - after a few turns the nut on the bottom can be undone by hand - then remove the pin.

At this point you may want to use latex gloves (unless you like greasy hands) - reach inside the door through the speaker hole and remove the check strap. The mechanism should be covered in grease, you may want to re-grease the mechanism at this point for good measure.

Put one of the plates over the end of the mechanism and see if the screw holes in the plate line up with those on the check strap. If not you'll need to bend the check strap brackets slightly to match (both mine were slightly out).

The second reinforcement plate needs to sit between the door and the fixing bolts - I found the best way to do this is to get the check strap into its' approximate position, then pull it back, fit the plate and push it through again.

Fit the two new bolts through the inner and outer reinforcement plates and into the check strap - note that they have a T30 torx head and not standard 8mm hexagonal. On the driver's side, I had trouble getting the bolts in position - it turned out that there was a slight lip which the reinforcement plate needed to be sat on top of, otherwise it was about 1mm out. When complete it should look like this:



(I suppose a bit of paint over the screw heads wouldn't be a bad idea either )

Next comes the bushes. They fit on the end of the check straps, between the bolt and the strap, as below:



Push out the old, replace with the new. Ideally grease the pin before replacing - it may now not go right the way through without "assistance" due to the new bush, but there should be enough to fit the nut onto. Tighten up using the two 10mm spanners as per removal, which will pull the pin down through the bush.

Opening and closing the door should now be free of the cracking sound!  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

4
the existing aerial connection fitted to the cage is DIN (right-angled plug) which matches the radio. The FM modulator supplied with the drive & play uses ISO (straight) connections, but comes with adaptors to and from DIN. So you need to remove the existing aerial lead from the cage, plug that into the modulator using one adaptor, connect the modulator's output flylead to the adaptor and then fix that to the cage.

The problem I had with this was that there was then no easy way of securing the adaptor to the cage so that it stayed in place when the radio was refitted (as the original plug clips into place).

I ended up binning the metal ISO to DIN adaptor that should connect to the head unit, then buying an adaptor lead that did the same thing and securing this to the cage using a cable tie fitted through holes that I then drilled in suitable places ...




the connection in the kick panel is a different type again ... SMB?

5
see the "how-2" I posted last april here ...

6
the other option is an FM modulator - the aerial cable connects to the modulator, which then plugs into the aerial connection in the radio - as it's hard wired you don't have the problems with poor reception that you get with the FM transmitters. My harman kardon ipod interface/controller uses one - works very well.

But a true line input should give better quality ... here's a pic of the NCDC2013 pinouts I took a few months ago:



if you look at the bottom right of the additional connection (20 pin) plug, they say "CDL, CD-, CDR" which I'd assume is the left, ground and right connection for an external CD changer respectively. Then you'd just need some way of switching to that input ... not sure which pins the traffic master connection uses, it may use the CD changer input for that?

7
two motors per mirror, one for each axis. You might even be able to swap out the guts from a pre-facelift mirror ... ???

I had a similar problem on my first omega, turned out to be the multi-pin plug wasn't seated right - but you need to take the mirror off the door before you can access the connector - not difficult though ... it worked perfectly afterwards ...

8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Connecting an ipod
« on: 09 October 2007, 16:38:53 »
you can fit the harman kardon drive & play - this uses a wired FM modulator so doesn't transmit outside of the car - but you will still get a bit of hiss on quiet parts of music ... it also comes with a remote display and controller so you can lock the ipod away in the glovebox and it will charge it too  :)

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Checking if I have Bose?
« on: 09 October 2007, 16:28:34 »
only elite spec had bose as standard - no other trim levels, including MV6, had it. I don't think it was even an option to have it fitted if not standard?

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: What's the best ICE solution?
« on: 09 October 2007, 16:33:38 »
the other option is to fit an ipod interface if you have an ipod. I've fitted the harman kardon "drive and play" unit to two facelift omegas now. Unfortunately you have to use the aerial connection as there isn't an easy way to connect to the head unit. As a result, there is a bit of hiss in quiet passages - but depending on what type of music you listen to, that may or may not be an issue.

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: BOSE help please
« on: 09 October 2007, 16:30:47 »
from what I remember, bose head unit outputs at line level (0.7V) - most pre-outs on aftermarket head units run at 2 or 4V. So you'd need to wire up the pre-out to speaker connections as that's where the bose amp takes its' input from ...

12
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bose... No sound
« on: 22 August 2007, 14:52:08 »
does the head unit actually state "bose" on the cassette door? As if not, it will be sending high level signals through the speaker outputs and the bose amplifier will trip as it expects to be fed line level signals ... assuming the elite is pre or mini-facelift ...

13
I had one of the MASK units and fitted it to a golf GTI company car I had at the time. When closed there's a slide switch on the bottom, push that (to the right IIRC) and the faceplace *should* open. Unless it's got a problem like mine developed whereby the flexible cable connecting the main circuit board with the front panel fails so you can't even open it with the switch ...  ::)

There is room to the left and below the back of the radio cage where you can shove adaptors if the cables are long enough, but space on the pre-facelift miggy's is tight at the best of times ... you'll probably find it's due to the lack of space that the remote controls have stopped working, the connector has probably popped out ...

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bluetooth car kit
« on: 27 June 2007, 18:47:29 »
I'd have thought you'd be able to use the pre-wiring connector behind the glovebox ... IF you can get a suitable lead ...

15
I have it in mine and think it's very good for a factory fit system - the sub fits on the nearside cubby hole in the boot. You could get deeper and more bass using an aftermarket system - but at the expense of load space - so it depends on what you're after ...

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