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[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

I'm finally getting round to a spring change. The front droplinks were changed, along with a lot of other bits, about 4k miles and 2.5 years ago. I fitted everything, bit of grease hither and thither as appropriate. Everything's had a good brush and Plusgas. Does the droplink want to come free on the nearside? Does it bugger.

I'm considering, once I've Dremel'd the old nut off and replaced it... covering the joint in grease and somehow capping it. Or perhaps, spraying a load of spray-wrap over each end, the theory being to waterproof it, and then when I do want to remove them in future, it's a quick peel-off and hopefully it will be less seized. Any other ideas?

Surely there's a better design. At least the replacement parts have flats so I can put some pressure on each side.

[Doctor Gollum]

Jack the whole front end so that the weight is off both wheels 

Also have you tried an Allen key in the bolt head?

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Jack the whole front end so that the weight is off both wheels 

Also have you tried an Allen key in the bolt head?

The whole car is in the air - everything is moving, just the nut sticking on the shaft once it's past a certain distance. I've spent an hour undoing the offside, winding it back and forth a midgie's tadger at a time. Sadly the nearside must have seen that coming...

The bits IIRC are TRW or something - 17mm flats on the bush side, 19mm nut.

[YZ250]

I don't even bother trying to undo the nuts now, I centre pop a couple of dots in a line and drill them out, getting bigger and bigger as I go. I then split the nut off with a nut splitter. By doing it this way I feel a sense of smug satisfaction as it is a fairly quick process. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

I would come and do it for you but I really cba

[YZ250]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

There's not normally an issue with the type with spanner flats, I assumed that it was the Allen key on the end type until I re-read above. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

There's not normally an issue with the type with spanner flats, I assumed that it was the Allen key on the end type until I re-read above. 

As long as you've a thin enough spanner to get into it

[Andy B]

 

[Andy B]

for both the drop link or to make a thin spanner 

[Doctor Gollum]

Yes, that could work...

 

[Nick W]

I'm with Andy B; use a spanner on the nuts, and if they don't undo immediately, lop off each end with the angle grinder. Doing that to all four nuts takes less time than reading the current posts in this thread. Standard procedure for any ARB droplink, not just Omegas. Covering them with grease will make any further work in this area horribly messy, and is unlikely to help you grip the balljoint pin when you try and undo it in 50,000miles time.....

[TheBoy]

I tend to use decent quality droplinks, so it becomes a once in the cars lifetime job, not the regular task with the sligtly cheaper junk.

I also use coppaslip (the real stuff, not the crap from most factors) as it doesn't wash off so easily as grease.


Ergo, its a non issue

[YZ250]

I tend to use decent quality droplinks, so it becomes a once in the cars lifetime job, not the regular task with the sligtly cheaper junk.

My Meyle HD drop links were fine for quite some time but the boot split on one side so I had to change them for mot, even though the ball joint was fine. 

[dave the builder]

if the droplinks are fine ,and good quality ,just fit new rubber boots
even if that means removing the boots from a brand new set of cheap drop links and packing with grease

I have a thinned spanner for drop links
 I also won't spend long before the grinder eats the nuts if they don't play ball 

[Doctor Gollum]

I just wind them off with a 1/2" ratchet and treat it as a form of therapy 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

I would come and do it for you but I really cba

I did have hold! It just jammed solid partway down the thread...

Still, half an hour with the Dremel at a more social hour and I've got it off intact. Just a trip to the fastener man tomorrow for two new nuts and I'll be happy.

[biggriffin]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

I would come and do it for you but I really cba

I did have hold! It just jammed solid partway down the thread...

Still, half an hour with the Dremel at a more social hour and I've got it off intact. Just a trip to the fastener man tomorrow for two new nuts and I'll be happy.

Couple of m10×150 nylocks,  you must have them in the nut-n-bolt box, which is always under the bench,, or a draw in the tool box.

[cam.in.head]

to add to daves comment above .yes re pack with grease.even if you are fitting new drop links as the more grease in there (within reason) the less chance of water getting in and ruining them !

[dave the builder]

[Doctor Gollum]

I don't believe that I have ever refitted used drop links

[dave the builder]

I think mine are original, 81k miles , just repacked ,no play
there are some cheap junk drop links i've put on astras before and swapped again 1 year later 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

I don't believe that I have ever refitted used drop links

4.5k miles, barely used!

Loving that photo, when I get the workshop built I might have to make it into a poster!

[Carfix]

Love the photo! Sums up owning an older car perfectly.

[VXL V6]

I don't believe that I have ever refitted used drop links

Only droplinks I have refitted are Meyle HD's, they are the only ones that (GM included) have lasted more than 20K, ones on the daily are well over 100K and still fine with three wishbone changes in that time!

[Nick W]

Then use a 17mm spanner to stop it spinning

I would come and do it for you but I really cba

I did have hold! It just jammed solid partway down the thread...

Still, half an hour with the Dremel at a more social hour and I've got it off intact. Just a trip to the fastener man tomorrow for two new nuts and I'll be happy.

Couple of m10×150 nylocks,  you must have them in the nut-n-bolt box, which is always under the bench,, or a draw in the tool box.

A Dremel to cut off M10 nuts? Just how many discs did that cost you, let alone the time it took.


Nylocs probably aren't necessary for these.


We are all wirebrushing the exposed thread and nut before using the spanner as best practice and common sense require?

[Doctor Gollum]

Steady now, there's that word again... 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

We are all wirebrushing the exposed thread and nut before using the spanner as best practice and common sense require?

Yup! And, as every time, I slipped and wirebrushed my hand as well... I don't know how I'm allowed out without adult supervision!