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[Omega Nige]

Hi, Im looking to strip the brake calipers and change the seal/pistons and nipples on my 3.2, where is the best place to buy for the front and back?

Thanks, Nigel.

[Nick W]

Bigg Red are good for calliper(any brake) parts.


But before you buy any, it's worth stripping the calliper to see if it's worth spending 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a new one resealing a crusty old one. Be especially critical of where the seals fit, machined surfaces and the edges of the casting. If you factor in the time you'll spend fitting the new parts and making it look pretty, then new callipers are a pretty good deal.


Don't forget to get a slider rebuild kit for the fronts   That's likely to cure most front calliper faults on its own...


Bleed nipples are a few pence each from your favourite local motorfactor.

[Doctor Gollum]

Rear calipers aren't available for the 2.6/3.2/vented rear discs.

[deviator]

But before you buy any, it's worth stripping the calliper to see if it's worth spending 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a new one resealing a crusty old one.

This. It takes me 2-3 hours to clean a caliper up to the stage I am happy to reseal it. Those few specs of dirt might not appear to be much, but if they cause the rubber seal to slightly bind to the piston, you'll get an awful brake feel, as best.

As a rule of thumb, I only recon a caliper if the replacement is not available or is silly money.

[Nick W]

But before you buy any, it's worth stripping the calliper to see if it's worth spending 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a new one resealing a crusty old one.

This. It takes me 2-3 hours to clean a caliper up to the stage I am happy to reseal it. Those few specs of dirt might not appear to be much, but if they cause the rubber seal to slightly bind to the piston, you'll get an awful brake feel, as best.

As a rule of thumb, I only recon a caliper if the replacement is not available or is silly money.

Wow, I'd resent having half an hour in the thing!


Take it off the car, plug the inlet, pour some brake cleaner in a bowl and clean the outside with a scraper and nail brush.  Remove the dustseal and clean any crap out from under it. Do the other one while that dries. Pull the piston, clean and inspect the bore, blow it through with an airline, fit the new seals and piston, reassemble everything and it's ready to go back on. Now is the time to paint it if you think that's necessary; a squirt of aerosol black or the same colour as the wheel. I can't see the point, so don't bother.

My sister's car last week we trying to do the MOT for as little as possible, and I had the time. Normally, with the problems I would have replaced the calliper immediately. Paying jobs always get new.

[deviator]

Yep. Once you've removed the sealed, the grooves need a damn good clean. The best method I've found is to find an allen key that will just fit in the groove, turn it slightly so it fills the groove and keep running it around until all the crap comes out. Both of these seal grooves need to be spotless. The groove on the piston less so, but still important when you put new pads in. Then the piston wants cleaning, which can be tricky finding something to remove rust without overly scratching the surface. This is without overly cleaning the outside, which is normally petrol in a washing up bowl and paint brush clean.

[Nick W]

Yep. Once you've removed the sealed, the grooves need a damn good clean. The best method I've found is to find an allen key that will just fit in the groove, turn it slightly so it fills the groove and keep running it around until all the crap comes out. Both of these seal grooves need to be spotless. The groove on the piston less so, but still important when you put new pads in. Then the piston wants cleaning, which can be tricky finding something to remove rust without overly scratching the surface. This is without overly cleaning the outside, which is normally petrol in a washing up bowl and paint brush clean.

We are on the same page then   I prefer gunwash or standard thinners over petrol as it's a better solvent, smells better, and doesn't leave as much as a residue. Aircraft get wiped down with avgas; you fill up your spraybottle when checking the fuel-drain taps.


I use a bent pick to clean the grooves, as that's one of its intended jobs. A couple of sharp engineer's scrapers are really handy; grind out of  worn, small files if you don't want to buy them


As for the piston, some really fine wire wool used with oil works for me. Work around the circumference, not across it. If that damages the piston, it wasn't worth bothering with.

[deviator]

The only reason I use petrol is because I've always got some, always got a container suitable, can buy it locally out of motor factor opening hours and the old petrol from cars that have sat around a while is ideal for cleaning but not so much driving.

[iansoutham]

I must be the only one then that takes the piston out, turns it the other way and puts it back in the caliper and then media blasts the caliper body to get it completely spotless before spray painting and lacquering, then replacing the piston with new, along with a seal kit.

But then, I normally do this on show cars so time becomes almost irrelevant.

[TheBoy]

//TB ponders if he has ever had to do anything to TBE's front brakes, other than regular pad and disc changes, and the associated light cleaning whilst doing that.

I think the addage of use 'em or lose 'em is apt here

[Andy B]

//TB ponders if he has ever had to do anything to TBE's front brakes, other than regular pad and disc changes, and the associated light cleaning whilst doing that.

I think the addage of use 'em or lose 'em is apt here

All my Vauxhalls have been the same as yours. The only car I've needed new/recon calipers on was my R Class & it had plenty of use.

[Nick W]

//TB ponders if he has ever had to do anything to TBE's front brakes, other than regular pad and disc changes, and the associated light cleaning whilst doing that.

I think the adage of use 'em or lose 'em is apt here

Single piston callipers are pretty reliable if you keep the slide pins free, especially on the front where they do most of the work. They more likely to suffer from damage or neglect.


Rears tend to be a bit more complex because of the handbrake mechanism(Omegas are just old with their separate drums) and that they don't do much work.

[TheBoy]

Rears tend to be a bit more complex because of the handbrake mechanism(Omegas are just old with their separate drums) and that they don't do much work.

Depends if its RWD

[Nick W]

Rears tend to be a bit more complex because of the handbrake mechanism(Omegas are just old with their separate drums) and that they don't do much work.

Depends if its RWD and you drive like a 14 year old

FTFY

[TheBoy]

Rears tend to be a bit more complex because of the handbrake mechanism(Omegas are just old with their separate drums) and that they don't do much work.

Depends if its RWD and you drive like a 14 year old

FTFY

I aint that old, She reckons I'm 5