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I doubt it very much they seem to be invincible

https://news.sky.com/story/metas-ai-tells-facebook-user-it-has-disabled-gifted-child-in-response-to-parent-asking-for-advice-13117975

https://news.sky.com/story/first-known-test-dogfight-between-ai-and-human-pilot-carried-out-us-military-says-13118545

Shit like that should be enough to tarnish the SNP out of existence.

Any fault codes?

Could well be a tuning issue.

hi again
i reproducated the "error" successfully
so there are one more factor -> cold engine
after work i do the excact same thing: with cold engine from 70km/h i accelerated to 90km/h with the cruise control button (i holded, not pushed) and at 90km/h i heard some noise from rear i think it was the rear brake, then the TC icon appared and the accelerator pedal went full silent, but if i floored it, the "lifted" idle rpm (800 when this is happened) jumped up to around 1200. Then i tried reproducate again with operating temperature, then everything works just fine. I tried many gear - speed combination (eg.: at 4th 50-90, 60-90, 5th 80-90, 90-110) but everything is great when the engine is not cold. My car has chip tune (~196HP on dyno), maybe it has some "bug" with cold engine and specific butterfly valve position?

There's a picture in the guides/faq highlighting the difference between vented and non vented.

Yours should be non vented so pins should be freely available.

Just because something was previously changed,. doesn't mean that a) it's not faulty or b) not correctly fitted.

Fuel filter may not have made a difference, but I would wager that it was overdue.

The gear selector issue is yet another, separate, issue rather than part of everything else.

Have you replaced the MAF yet?

Have you reseated the cluster yet?

Also what other parts have been replaced recently?

Get the codes read, either with the pedal trick or an actual code reader and report back.

Crank sensor produces the rpm signal.

Camber, toe, height?

As for the dealer quoting for all those parts, only an idiot would replace factory original shocks on an older used car with some miles on it without replacing all those bits.

Springs can be subjective, but it's not a new, low mileage car.

Readings were

Left Hand.          Right Hand

+ 0.5                  + 0.6

1.2                       0.3

67.8 cm                67.2 cm.   ( ground to wheel arch)

Few questions there. Sorry been out all day.

First ride height. Lh side is higher 67.8 cm to 67.2 cm rh ( kerbside).

Tyre wear. Yes inner edge trashed the tyre on the lh side which was only spotted at mot.  So to keep mobile I got two new tyres and through a restest.

Garage checked tracking and that is when the camber issue came up. I took a photo of the settings. Not sure if he needed to adjust toe in/out. I will go back and ask him.

Ditto will chase up the vw dealer who advised best live with it but will send you a quote . I suspect the reason it will be “ a. Lot” apart from being a main stealer is quote will be shocks, springs, mounts, bearings, new bolts maybe arms too. That was the way I have been leaning towards albeit via a trusted cheaper local garage.

Then I started  thinking maybe time to get shot and buy somthing else newer….. and put the thousand euros suspension is going to cost towards that.

Does it drive well? Well today I convinced myself it doesnt ie front left wheel feels like it is dragging on corners. Car doesnt pull left or right though in a straight line.
There is also a noise like a bearing thrum.

On the plus side having just shelled out on a cambelt and new water pump and also the periodic dsg oil and filter change, selling or trading in should be a shade easier.