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[Shackeng]

Can anyone tell me which is the live lead for the Parkpilot speaker, i have buzzer to  wire in to check the speaker but it is 'handed' voltage wise. The speaker - I believe - is the 2 wire output from the ECU and has red and brown wires. I don't think it will blow anything up if I wire it wrongly, but better safe than sorry.

TIA

[Shackeng]

OK I've worked out which are the +ve and -ve leads, Red is the +ve as expected. Putting 12v across the leads gives no sound from the speaker, however, putting a 12v buzzer across the leads, it does not work either when the sensors are activated in reverse with ign on, assuming that putting something behind a sensor activates it.
Failure of both these tests suggests that both the speaker and the ECU are faulty, which seems unlikely. 

Any ideas guys?

[05omegav6]

Are you connecting the buzzer to the terminals on the ecu, if only to rule out the plug itself

[TheBoy]

Never really studied the circuit diagram for it. However, the speakers seem fragile

[Shackeng]

Are you connecting the buzzer to the terminals on the ecu, if only to rule out the plug itself

No Al,  I've only connected to the wires out of the plug, mainly 'cos I can't see how to disconnect the plug easily, although I'm sure there is a simple locking catch.

[05omegav6]

Push the tab on the speaker plug down where it meets the socket locking tab is on the speaker side of the plug..

Speaker plug is on a 6" fly lead from main control plug, but guessing you already know that

Pins 1 BR and 2 RT of the main control box plug/socket are the speaker connections

[Shackeng]

Push the tab on the speaker plug down where it meets the socket locking tab is on the speaker side of the plug..

Speaker plug is on a 6" fly lead from main control plug, but guessing you already know that :-\

Pins 1 BR and 2 RT of the main control box plug/socket are the speaker connections

Ooops

[05omegav6]

If you can confirm a current at the control box, then that would confine the issue to either the loom to the speaker, the connections along said loom or the speaker itself

[Shackeng]

If you can confirm a current at the control box, then that would confine the issue to either the loom to the speaker, the connections along said loom or the speaker itself

Right, and I need to remove those plugs from the control box to check for power there.

Sorry for delay, been watching Westwood lose the Open.

[Shackeng]

I've now got the plugs out of the control box. Incidentally my (2 wire?) speaker feed is continuous from the box and I have power, 11v , to the box.

[05omegav6]

Mine, sitting next to me, came from a 2002 saloon, using that for reference

And yes speaker is only two wires

[Shackeng]

Hmmm, I'm baffled, as there is voltage into the box, but the speaker does not squawk with 12v applied to it directly, and a separate buzzer does not work when supplied via the box when - I think - the sensors should be operating. Is there likely to be any  audible indication, other than the speaker, when the sensors operate as I have no way of knowing? In any case it looks like a dual fault, failed speaker, plus WHY, even if unlikely.

[05omegav6]

Do the reverse lights work can you feel a faint vibration from the sensors when ignition at position 2 and reverse engaged (don't forget to plug everything back in first)

[Shackeng]

Do the reverse lights work can you feel a faint vibration from the sensors when ignition at position 2 and reverse engaged (don't forget to plug everything back in first)

I'll check after dinner.

Thanks for all your replies Al.

 

[Shackeng]

Do the reverse lights work can you feel a faint vibration from the sensors when ignition at position 2 and reverse engaged (don't forget to plug everything back in first)

I didn't feel this when I had ign on and in reverse.

[05omegav6]

Sensors are on their own loom, might be worth double checking the plug just before the loom exits the boot to behind the bumper

That said if the box can't 'see' that the car is in reverse, then the sensors won't be activated

[Shackeng]

Will do. It will now have to wait until tomoz. Fortunately the TD is my daily, and the 3.2 is on stands having had all the AC system dealt with, so I thought I'd deal with the PP while its off road.

Thanks again Al, I appreciate all your help.

[Shackeng]

However all this is odd in that the speaker is also dumb.

[Entwood]

Once its back driveable, if you want to pop round with it we can use some long wire and jump speakers/systems one to another and see what is working or not ?? But we go away a week tomorrow for a couple of weeks (France)...

[Shackeng]

Once its back driveable, if you want to pop round with it we can use some long wire and jump speakers/systems one to another and see what is working or not ?? But we go away a week tomorrow for a couple of weeks (France)...

Thanks a lot Nige, I will probably take up your kind offer.

Cheers:y

[Broomies Mate]

A fault with the sensors will send a series of beeps.

Not sure of the buzzer you are using..... I tried a front door speak from a Bose car and got nothing (it had resistors and stuff).... a simple PC speaker gave me instant results.

[Shackeng]

This is just a 12v buzzer, works OK off a 12v battery, and I assume the signal to the PP speaker is 12v. I get no beeps or any noises at all at the moment.

[Broomies Mate]

This is just a 12v buzzer, works OK off a 12v battery, and I assume the signal to the PP speaker is 12v. I get no beeps or any noises at all at the moment.

No current from the PP control module when the car in reverse?

[chrisgixer]

Do the sensors tick, if touched lightly with pp engaged ? (Engine off helps as said)

The pressure applied to the centre of the sensor needs to be very light or the ticking will be smothered. Its quite subtle.

[TheBoy]

The speaker is a speaker, not a buzzer, isn't it?

Thus 12v across speaker would only give, at most, a quiet, single tick.

[Kevin Wood]

The speaker is a speaker, not a buzzer, isn't it?

Thus 12v across speaker would only give, at most, a quiet, single tick.

.. followed by a little whisp of smoke, yes. 

Easy to replace with a speaker from an old radio, etc. IIRC we did this on one of Chrisgixer's cars due to a failed speaker.

[zirk]

Fairly sure RobG has used a Mig Tweeter in one of them, need to bypass the Cap and Coil (Crossover) on it though.

[Shackeng]

Fairly sure RobG has used a Mig Tweeter in one of them, need to bypass the Cap and Coil (Crossover) on it though.

As many of you will know, such language is foreign to me.

[Shackeng]

The speaker is a speaker, not a buzzer, isn't it?

Thus 12v across speaker would only give, at most, a quiet, single tick.

.. followed by a little whisp of smoke, yes. 

Easy to replace with a speaker from an old radio, etc. IIRC we did this on one of Chrisgixer's cars due to a failed speaker.

So if the speaker was OK I've now blown it up?

[05omegav6]

The speaker is a speaker, not a buzzer, isn't it?

Thus 12v across speaker would only give, at most, a quiet, single tick.

.. followed by a little whisp of smoke, yes. 

Easy to replace with a speaker from an old radio, etc. IIRC we did this on one of Chrisgixer's cars due to a failed speaker.

So if the speaker was OK I've now blown it up?

On the plus side, you don't know that it was actually working beforehand

Fairly sure RobG has used a Mig Tweeter in one of them, need to bypass the Cap and Coil (Crossover) on it though.

Roughly translates to... use one of the small speakers in the front door by the handle, remembering to remove the little electrical component from between the terminals

I think...

[RobG]

Cut the blue capacitor off and solder the two arrowed wires together. Ideally could do with a tweeter connector as well

[05omegav6]

That almost reads like an advert

[Shackeng]

Cut the blue capacitor off and solder the two arrowed wires together. Ideally could do with a tweeter connector as well

I'm off to Entwood's this morning for some assistance on this, given his previous success with his own failed system. Results to be posted later.

[Marks DTM Calib]

A speaker reqiuires an ac waveform to make a sound.

A buzzer requires a DC voltage and has circuitry inside to convert teh DC to AC to drive the internal speaker.

Hence, the park pilot will not sound a buzzer (as its outputing farly low voltage AC)

And a speaker will make a short term click (you should see the cone move to one end) .......before throwing the towel in and burning the voice coil out.

[Shackeng]

A speaker reqiuires an ac waveform to make a sound.

A buzzer requires a DC voltage and has circuitry inside to convert teh DC to AC to drive the internal speaker.

Hence, the park pilot will not sound a buzzer (as its outputing farly low voltage AC)

And a speaker will make a short term click (you should see the cone move to one end) .......before throwing the towel in and burning the voice coil out.

I should have remembered this from my radio training 50 years ago!

Having been to Entwood's today, it seems it was just the reverse switch not operating, as the reverse lights are inop. and the speaker does not work. I was somewhat diverted by the fact that I had 12v to the control box when in reverse, however, Nige tells me that this is a permanent feed, ( I did not think to check if it was there all the time ) and in any case, I should have checked the reverse lights first. 

So all in all I have made a complete and utter Horlicks of it, and have blown what was almost certainly a perfectly good speaker. I hope all who read this thread will learn from my idiotic errors.

[Shackeng]

Do the reverse lights work can you feel a faint vibration from the sensors when ignition at position 2 and reverse engaged (don't forget to plug everything back in first)

No was the result, and thanks for pointing this out Al, so it is almost certainly a switch problem. Pity I've just dropped it off stands after all the AC work, and I've b******d a  -probably- good speaker.

[chrisgixer]

Do the reverse lights work can you feel a faint vibration from the sensors when ignition at position 2 and reverse engaged (don't forget to plug everything back in first)

No was the result, and thanks for pointing this out Al, so it is almost certainly a switch problem. Pity I've just dropped it off stands after all the AC work, and I've b******d a  -probably- good speaker.

Easy enough to replace. (For those that know what they are doing electrically. Ie not me)

[Shackeng]

Join the club Chris. I hope to fit a tweeter in place of it. RobG fitted a replacement behind the passenger's kick panel, which sounds like a good idea to me, as it saves damaging the headlining, and I think I can manage this.

[TheBoy]

The speaker may have survived, who knows...

[Shackeng]

Unfortunately not, we checked it by connecting it to the known good system in Entwood's car with a lead

[albitz]

Which reminds me,I have a tweeter sat on my bench for you. Better PM me your address.

[Shackeng]

Which reminds me,I have a tweeter sat on my bench for you. Better PM me your address.

PM incoming.

[albitz]

Received and replied,with thanks.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Not sure you need to bypass the cap

[Shackeng]

I now have the tweeter from Albs, and have removed the blue thing as per Rob's guide. Is the input 'handed', if so which connection goes to which output from the control box? The output wires from the box are Brown and Red/Brown, and the tweeter wires are Blue and Blue/Brown. 

[Shackeng]

And having, possibly, already blown one speaker, I don't wish to repeat such idiocy.

[Shackeng]

Just to confuse me further, the reverse lights are now working, with no input from me! So i suppose the good news is that maybe the speaker was already blown.

[05omegav6]

I now have the tweeter from Albs, and have removed the blue thing as per Rob's guide. Is the input 'handed', if so which connection goes to which output from the control box? The output wires from the box are Brown and Red/Brown, and the tweeter wires are Blue and Blue/Brown. 

Treat the wires with the brown trace as one and the same

Just to confuse me further, the reverse lights are now working, with no input from me! So i suppose the good news is that maybe the speaker was already blown.

Might be as simple as a loose connector on the selector switch

[Shackeng]

I now have the tweeter from Albs, and have removed the blue thing as per Rob's guide. Is the input 'handed', if so which connection goes to which output from the control box? The output wires from the box are Brown and Red/Brown, and the tweeter wires are Blue and Blue/Brown. 

Treat the wires with the brown trace as one and the same

Thanks Al

[Shackeng]

I've now fitted the tweeter in place of the, possibly, u/s speaker, in the pax footwell behind the kick panel on the side, and run the wire as RobG suggested along the under door side trim. The PP now works a treat, and if the speaker fails its an easy fix.

[RobG]

I've now fitted the tweeter in place of the, possibly, u/s speaker, in the pax footwell behind the kick panel on the side, and run the wire as RobG suggested along the under door side trim. The PP now works a treat, and if the speaker fails its an easy fix.

Glad you`re all sorted Chris

[Shackeng]

I've now fitted the tweeter in place of the, possibly, u/s speaker, in the pax footwell behind the kick panel on the side, and run the wire as RobG suggested along the under door side trim. The PP now works a treat, and if the speaker fails its an easy fix.

Glad you`re all sorted Chris