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[TheBoy]

Changing centre sections, unsurprisinging 3 or the 4 bolts sheared.  As always, drilling is not really playing the game, these bolts are like bloody diamond to get through.

Worth removing the cats, to do on the bench?  Will it need new gaskets (2 left in UK warehouses, so ordered them, but unlikely to be here before Wed, as the order wont actually get processed until Monday)? Sods law, car is needed this week


Query number 2. Should I, when looking down the Irmscher backbox, be able to see all the way through?

[Nick W]

Changing centre sections, unsurprisinging 3 or the 4 bolts sheared.  As always, drilling is not really playing the game, these bolts are like bloody diamond to get through.

Heat them up to red hot with the oxy-acetylene, and knock them out with a drift.
Easy, for those of who can be trusted with compressed gases

[TheBoy]

Strangely enough, no oxy here

[Andy H]

When I dropped the cats on my 1994 2.5 I think one of the manifold bolts sheared 

My advice is to carry on and drill out the bolts in the flanges. Use freshly sharpened drill bits and lots of cutting oil / fluid / water (choose your favourite method of keeping the drill bit cool)

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Patience is key with this. Not too fast drill speed and not too much pressure on the drill. Otherwise drill bit overheats and goes blunt pretty quickly. It takes as long as it takes, theres no hurrying it.
Start with a smallish bit (3mm rings a bell) and work up from there. Good quality (Cobalt) drill bits are a must.
The higher up you can get the car to give yourself some working room the easier it is on the arms / shoulders/ back etc.
I'm pretty sure I didn't use new gaskets when I did it, but it was a while ago. 

[terry paget]

Changing centre sections, unsurprisinging 3 or the 4 bolts sheared.  As always, drilling is not really playing the game, these bolts are like bloody diamond to get through.

Worth removing the cats, to do on the bench?  Will it need new gaskets (2 left in UK warehouses, so ordered them, but unlikely to be here before Wed, as the order wont actually get processed until Monday)? Sods law, car is needed this week


Query number 2. Should I, when looking down the Irmscher backbox, be able to see all the way through?

Too late now. My technique is to heat the bolt and threaded end of downpipe to red heat with a blow torch, allow to cool, then gingerly apply torque with  spanner. Hopefully it will yield a bit. If not, heat it again. Once it turns a bit spray it with penetrating oil, and turn it a bit clockwise, then anti clockwise, slowly working it loose. Spray with more oil occasionally, and slowly work it right out. It may sound tedious, but it's much easier than drilling it out

The Senator had simple holes in both sections, and used a nut and  bolt, much better arrangement. Then all one needed to do was tighten it until the nut broke.

[frostbite]

The irmy boxes are not free flowing, so no you cant see down them

[neil74]

The exhaust on mine needs doing very soon as its blowing quite badly. and going by the replies it looks like another bloody awkward job that I don't really want to do.

[frostbite]

I had with my old 2.5 a couple of pinholes  after the cats, fixed them with steel putty and pennies.

They made the most annoying buzzing and hissing whenever I drove past buildings and walls lol

[omega2018]

Patience is key with this. Not too fast drill speed and not too much pressure on the drill. Otherwise drill bit overheats and goes blunt pretty quickly. It takes as long as it takes, theres no hurrying it.
Start with a smallish bit (3mm rings a bell) and work up from there. Good quality (Cobalt) drill bits are a must.
The higher up you can get the car to give yourself some working room the easier it is on the arms / shoulders/ back etc.
I'm pretty sure I didn't use new gaskets when I did it, but it was a while ago. 

yes that's how i got mine out, 135 degree split point cobalt bits, slow speed , spray some cutting fluid, or water at least. cobalt bits are more brittle than normal do not break one off in the bolt or your problems will be much worse, so only point i might differ on is starting with a 3mm bit - more likely to break. agreed do not be tempted to push on the drill.

[Doctor Gollum]

Carefully slot the outer edge of the flange in to the bolt/stud, apply heat and smack it out with a suitably sized hammer.

On reassembly, use bolts and washers. Done

[omega2018]

Carefully slot the outer edge of the flange in to the bolt/stud, apply heat and smack it out with a suitably sized hammer.

Done

smack out a threaded stud with a hammer??? piece of piss i'm sure, can be done quicker than writing it up. 

not.

[Lazydocker]

Carefully slot the outer edge of the flange in to the bolt/stud, apply heat and smack it out with a suitably sized hammer.

Done

smack out a threaded stud with a hammer??? piece of piss i'm sure, can be done quicker than writing it up. 

not.

If you read the full post instead of being an argumentative twit you would have realised that the advice was sound.

I think it's unlikely TuBy will go that way however because he will want to tap the holes and use bolts again.

[TheBoy]

Carefully slot the outer edge of the flange in to the bolt/stud, apply heat and smack it out with a suitably sized hammer.

On reassembly, use bolts and washers. Done

From experience, the flange on these aren't strong enough then going forward 

[TheBoy]

Changing centre sections, unsurprisinging 3 or the 4 bolts sheared.  As always, drilling is not really playing the game, these bolts are like bloody diamond to get through.

Worth removing the cats, to do on the bench?  Will it need new gaskets (2 left in UK warehouses, so ordered them, but unlikely to be here before Wed, as the order wont actually get processed until Monday)? Sods law, car is needed this week


Query number 2. Should I, when looking down the Irmscher backbox, be able to see all the way through?

Too late now. My technique is to heat the bolt and threaded end of downpipe to red heat with a blow torch, allow to cool, then gingerly apply torque with  spanner. Hopefully it will yield a bit. If not, heat it again. Once it turns a bit spray it with penetrating oil, and turn it a bit clockwise, then anti clockwise, slowly working it loose. Spray with more oil occasionally, and slowly work it right out. It may sound tedious, but it's much easier than drilling it out

The Senator had simple holes in both sections, and used a nut and  bolt, much better arrangement. Then all one needed to do was tighten it until the nut broke.

I was using heat when trying to remove, after attempting to remove cold.