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Author Topic: How to - front brake pad change/ inspection  (Read 7424 times)

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GastronomicKleptomaniac

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How to - front brake pad change/ inspection
« on: 14 June 2012, 17:40:06 »

I know the steps are included in the disc change how-tos, but I thought this might be handy for the less confident OOFers looking to do their first brake pad changes...

As ever, safety first - I'm assuming you're sensible enough not to drop the car on your head, or screw your overall sleeve into the hub, but nevertheless - I am in no way responsible for any injury, death, argument, headache, or divorce arising from you following this guide. If you follow it, use your brain, and don't put your fingers where you wouldn't put that other vital appendage.

 You don't need to be under the car properly, but since you're removing road wheels and working in the arches, do make sure you're working on a suitable hard, level surface, chock the wheels, lift the car correctly and safely, support it properly.

Tools needed -

Wheelbrace
13mm and 19mm spanners
13mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, or ratchet spanners
Large flatblade screwdriver
Pliers and/ or eaglebeaks
Hammer and drift
Wirebrush

Onto the guide...

- Go round the wheelnuts, "cracking" them off - just get the first half a turn on each of them, before you lift the car off the ground. (Top tip - a cycle tyre lever is handy to remove the black wheelnut caps if they're a bit stiff)

- Lift the front end of the car off the ground, support it properly with stands under the chassis.

- Remove the wheelnuts, keeping one hand on the wheel so it doesn't land on you.

- Remove the roadwheel, pop it under the sill as insurance.

- You'll see the following -


<SSL26230>

- The bolts you need to remove are on the inside of the caliper, as circled here -


<SSL26231>

- The wire indicated with the yellow arrow is the brake pad sensor, fitted to the nearside wheel - if the pads don't need replacing, leave it connected so as to not disturb the connection unnecessarily. If it needs replacement, it's a simple unplug-plug in the new one.

- Position of the top bolt for reference, forgive my shoddy photography -


<SSL26233>

- Both are 13mm, use a proper spanner to crack them off, then the ratchet spanner or socket to undo them all of the way (never apply huge torque to a ratchet, such as undoing a bolt - it can damage the mechanism). If it starts to spin the slide (with the rubber gaiter over) hold it with a 15mm? open-ended spanner, or it will just spin all day.

- Undo these bolts, and remove the caliper - you'll be left with this


<SSL26235>

- Remove the pads, and clean up the edges shown here (and the same on the inside edge) - use a screwdriver to scrape any thick rust/ dust buildup, and a wire brush to finish off.


<SSL26236>

- If fitting new pads, unscrew the brake fluid reservoir lid, and push the piston back in with a large screwdriver. Then immediately replace the lid on the reservoir.

- Ensure the slides that the caliper bolts into are moving freely - if not, pop them out and grease them before refitting.

- Put the brake pads in, ensuring they're the correct way round

- Pop the caliper back over the pads, and put the two 13mm bolts in by hand first - start by finger tightening them, before using spanners to tighten them - double and triple check them, you don't want them coming loose...

- Reattach the roadwheel, tighten the wheelnuts as best you can with the car in the air.

- Repeat for the other side. Drop the car down.

- With the car on the deck, give the wheelnuts a final tighten, double-check them in sequence, then refit the wheelnut caps.

Job jobbed.
« Last Edit: 16 September 2012, 10:35:08 by Jimbob »
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