Apologies to OOF. When I posted I had not read the maintenance guide. I have now. Setting camber seems tedious, a trial and error job, and Haynes says requires a full tank of fuel and 70 kilos in each front seat. Do Wheels in Motion really do all that?
I don't see why it's a trial and error job, I did mine in the street with makeshift equipment. When I finally got around to having the wheel alignment done properly, it was bang on what I'd set it to.
The camber is read directly off the wheel, so all you need is some way of reading the angle to minutes of a degree. I used a £20 Wixey magnetic bevel gauge(bought for setting workpieces at an angle on the milling machine), stuck to piece of 2" angle iron cable tied across the wheel rim. The gauge was zeroed on the rest of the angle iron set on the ground between the wheels. Then the fun part starts; it's difficult to adjust the strut and tighten the bolts without being under the car, but it is achievable with 2 people. He used the jack handle in the spokes of the wheel to adjust and hold the camber with the car on its wheels, whilst I struggled to tighten the bolts without moving anything. This got the camber set to -1.2 degrees, which is what the machine measured it as 18 months later.
Now the bad news, you still don't have the rest of the front suspension adjusted correctly. And adjusting one can seriously affect the others. Even though my cambers were acceptable, it was still killing tyres in 4000 miles. That turned out to be 6mm toe-in on one side, and
13mm on the other! Bringing the toe into line also tweaked the camber settings, so they're now slightly more than optimum, but it drives so well I've elected to leave them. after all, it's how the car works that matters, not the actual numbers.