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[RobC_NE]

quick question as im getting desperate. will a 2.5 from a vectra fit into an omega or is there more involved (gearbox alterations, mounting, etc...) i presently have a knackered 3.0 (bent valves from a timing belt incident i think) and an autobox (possibly from the 2.5 that was originally in the car.)

pain in the a**e to find a 3.0 in any breakers round near me  :-/ can only find 2.5 and he wants £550 for it. i could pickup a reasonable 3.0 for that lol.

would prefer to drop another 3L in it but if i have to, a 2.5 will have to suffice  

any suggestions appreciated.

Rob

[Marks DTM Calib]

Why not source 2off 3.0 heads and fit the replacement heads and then bolt a spare box on.

The heads are available here:

Ebay 3.0 heads

That way you can re-build the heads with new stem seals and clean the vlaves plus clean the lifters through. You then have an excellen top end for a lot less money.

You also end up with an engine with good camcover gaskets, new timing belt (which you already have), good exhaust manifold gaskets etc etc

AR35 boxes are fairly easy to source to.....

Plus the work involved is probably very little more.

[omegaV6CD]

Why not source 2off 3.0 heads and fit the replacement heads and then bolt a spare box on.

The heads are available here:

Ebay 3.0 heads

That way you can re-build the heads with new stem seals and clean the vlaves plus clean the lifters through. You then have an excellen top end for a lot less money.

You also end up with an engine with good camcover gaskets, new timing belt (which you already have), good exhaust manifold gaskets etc etc

AR35 boxes are fairly easy to source to.....

Plus the work involved is probably very little more.

Sorry to hijack the thread but when you remove the lifters how can you check if they are good and just a cleaning will do if they are already little noisy?

[Marks DTM Calib]

The method I have used successfully is to place the lifter in a vice (protecting it with a rag) and slowly wind the vice in with something pressing on the central lifter point (the point that makes contact with the valve top).

If you do this with the bleed hole in the lifter pointing down it slowly squeezes all the old oil out, repeat a few times per lifter.

When the lifter is empty check that the internal spring is OK and returning the central contact point to its fully out position (I had two noisy lifters, one per bank, and have since found two with a failed return spring, one per bank...coincidence?).

Then place the now empty lifter in a pot of oil and pump until no more air comes out.....you can then repeat the process if you wish.