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Author Topic: Replacing Estate Shocks  (Read 3234 times)

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tunnie

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Replacing Estate Shocks
« on: 20 May 2012, 14:32:49 »

Removing Estate shocks is quite a bit different to that of a Saloon. You will need:

  • 21mm socket (for lower shock bolt)
  • 6mm spanner & 16mm ratchet spanner (for the top nut)
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Breaker-bar & 17mm socket for wheels
  • Axel stand
  • Torque Wrench (capable of 110Nm)
  • Wirebrush
  • WD40/PlusGas
  • Pot of grease
  • change for the swear jar

Parts

2 x Shock Absorbers
Be aware of Standard, Self Leveling, Lowered Sport Chassis etc versions and ensure you get the correct ones for your car.

How To

First, you will need to remove the carpet in the boot area to access panel & top shock bolt. I found it much easier to remove everthing in the boot area & pull the carpet up, with things like the load cover in the way, lifting up the carpet became a pain. But you can shortcut here if you want to.

First, remove the block at the end of the runners, you are looking for a latch inside the runners, pull this back and pull up:





Do this on each side, then pull the load cover through & out.

Now the carpet has a number of plastic screw/clips holding it down, use a flat edge screwdriver to release these:





Now fold down the seats, lift the carpet up (releasing the latch for the spare wheel cover) this exposes both covers for top shock. You can be lazy here, and just lift the carpet up without seats down, but its lot easier pulling it all back.



Locate the black plate covering the top of the shock, use a cross head screwdriver to remove this.





They can be a bit sticky, flat edge screwdriver to lift it offÖ



This exposes the top assembly, I gave this a blast of plus gas, then moved onto the outside work to let it soak in a bit.





Right, now outside crack the wheel nuts, jack the car up and support it on an axel stand, making sure not to put stand on any moving part of the suspension.



If you have an Elite with Self Leveling Suspension, locate the air feed pipe into the top of the shock. Use a pair of plyers to pull the metal clip off and release the pipe. Air will be released, unless the shock is goosed.

Locate the bottom shock bolt, take a wire brush to the exposed thread, remove any crud, you donít want to pull this through in.



Give each side a blast of plus gas too, its actually worth doing this a week or so before the job if you can.

Take 21mm socket to the lower bolt, if you have a jack with a detachable handle this can be used to give you extra power:



This should remove fairly easily, pull the bolt out. The lower part of the shock will most likely stay in place, you will need to place a breaker bar in between the shock and wheel hub assembly. Brut force is key here, I ended up kicking the bar to pop the shock off. It is possible to pull the shock off its lower bracket, if thatís the case, just hit it with a hammer.



Now you can release the top of the shock, use a 16mm spanner (ratchet saves so much time here) a 6mm spanner on top of thisÖ.



Useful having a second pair of hands to support the shock when you release it, at the top you will be left with a rubber, metal plate & nut.

Take care when removing the shock, if you are lucky, the big rubber washer will come off with the metal sleeve inside it:



You need to remove this metal part, blast of WD helps here.

Sometimes the metal sleeve gets stuck on the shock:


« Last Edit: 26 May 2012, 09:51:28 by Jimbob »
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tunnie

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Re: Replacing Estate Shocks
« Reply #1 on: 20 May 2012, 14:33:07 »

Screwdriver + hammer on the metal plate should loosen it, then hit the bottom of the sleeve.

You should be left with 2x these, give them a clean with a small file/sandpaper:



With new shock, the fitting on top should go: Metal Plate > Sleeve > Big Washer (new)

Its worth greasing all this up to make it slip on easier and stop any future squeaking, should look like this: (note Iím doing this with shock in place, should have been done earlier)











Insert shock into gap above, again second pair of hands useful here. On the top of the shock, use the new parts provided, it goes rubber washer, plate, then bolt, just put this on finger tight for now.

Locate the bolt lower part of the shock, itís worth cleaning this up. I put a smear of copper slip, make things easier in the future.





You may need to put a small jack under the wheel up, insert the bolt into the shock & raise hub to the point of the new shock.

Tighten it all up, use a torque wrench set to 110Nm.

Re-fit air pipe + clip.

Inside the car, tighten up the bolt with ratchet spanner until 3 or 4 threads are exposed.

Lower car, repeat on the other side.

Then itís just a case of re-fitting the plate & putting the carpet back.
« Last Edit: 26 May 2012, 09:50:06 by Jimbob »
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Got a VW, Audi, Skoda or Seat? I have full Diagnostic software VCDS to read and program your car. Need something enabling? Perhaps full diagnostic? Drop me a PM. Can diagnose in Camberley or Osterley Area.
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