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[Andy B]

Silicon sealer in the strainer pick up was the reason why there was a reduction in oil pressure on her Smart ..... that needed new big end shells too.

[TheBoy]

Ive had the sump off mine a few times, and the strainer has always been spotless. So probably depends on genuine history - if unknown or dubious, maybe worth checking.

[sjr47]

Sumat I have never thought of doin B4 or since I had mine so better to be safe than sorry. On 1st oil change I did housing was a pig to remove when I did remove it filter did,nt look like it had been done for yonks probably due to difficulty of removing cap it had collapsed and fell to bits when removed did a further oil + filter change 1 month later both were black again not what I would expect after such a short period so for future owners I would say add this procedure to your 1st service not a huge job for peace of mind.

[LC0112G]

My V6 is due a oil/filter change next month now on 89K so thing I will now add strainer clean to job.By the way do you know the size of O ring seal to the pump body,MY 03- 52 plate so is it sealent or gasket ?

EPC says sump gasket p/n 90469379 up to and including engine number 08300418. Then from engine number 08300419 onwards its sealant p/n 90543772. I expect yours is the sealant type, but check your V5 log book for the engine number. The strainer to oil pump seal is p/n 90411017 if you do unbolt the strainer.

I didn't bother unbolting the strainer when I checked mine. I reasoned that it introduced a load more work AND the risk that it might cause a new problem.

I agree - don't unbolt the strainer. If crud has got past the strainer gauze then next stop is the oil pump and oil filter so there is not much to be gained by unbolting it.

[sjr47]

  sealent it is, so will just inspect & clean with carb or brake cleaner .

[2woody]

there's no physical difference - they simply deleted the gasket and went RTV instead

[Marks DTM Calib]

And TIS has an instruction stating all engines to use the sealant on refurb.

Not a common issue at all, you have seen the result of some very poor spanner work in the past which has sadly lost you your engine. Now people know why we say to use the cam cover sealant only where required and not to slap it on every where.
 

[Andy B]

..... and not to slap it on every where.

Those that do are normally using the instant/silicon gasket alongside the proper gasket. 

[Kevin Wood]

..... and not to slap it on every where.

Those that do are normally using the instant/silicon gasket alongside the proper gasket. 

.. and they often "advise" that it's a waste of money buying the proper GM sealant and use bath tub caulk instead.

[LC0112G]

Ok - was going to start work on getting the engine out tonight, but I'm too angry after the shambles at Huish Park this afternoon to risk going near any (more) spanners. So manjana.

Vx want £1750+vat for a "remanufactured" exchange engine  . I think I can get a scrapyard lump for £100 ish, but I don't have anything suitable to transport it so would need to hire a van plus fuel to go fetch - so another £100 ish. On the plus side another complete engine would give me loads of spare parts - including a new crank should my one be fubar.

Anyway, been thinking about the relative merits of rebuilding vs replacing. Once the engine is out it won't take long to strip the bottom end down. What new parts are we looking at?

1) Main bearings - £40 ish
2) Big Ends - £40 ish
3) Main sump gasket - £15 ish.
4) Crankshaft oil seal - already got one.
5) Con rod and main bolts?

What else do I need to cost in? Obviously I'll need a bigger swear box.

It's had a recent timing belt, rollers, waterpump and cam covers. I suspect I'll have to remove the timing belt, so will need to buy or scrounge the timing alignment tool again. Do the cams need to come out? Or can you do a bottom end with the cams still in? I don't want to remove either head.

Cheers
Malcolm

[sjr47]

I take it you are confident there is no top end damage to cam bearings,pistons,rings,valve stems etc also more than likely the crank journals are scored so will it need a regrind ? these problems might not be so apparent straight away but the  damage will probably shorten the usable life of the engine in the long run if it was me it would be a complete strip down for peace of mind only time & the cost of a gasket set + seals extra.

[LC0112G]

I take it you are confident there is no top end damage to cam bearings,pistons,rings,valve stems etc also more than likely the crank journals are scored so will it need a regrind ? these problems might not be so apparent straight away but the  damage will probably shorten the usable life of the engine in the long run

I'm confident of nothing. I think the engine has been run for less than 2 minutes with no oil pressure. Others may disagree, but I doubt piston or ring damage will occur in this timescale. I can look at the crank journals whilst doing the bearings. I can also lift the cam covers and take a peek at the cam caps. I've got some plastigauge. Stem seals are a risk though.

if it was me it would be a complete strip down for peace of mind only time & the cost of a gasket set + seals extra.

If this car were a keeper I might agree, but I don't think it is. I think perhaps 2 more years before the tinrot gets it. I have got one CHG and a new set of lifters somewhere, but if the heads came off I'd have to budget for new chg bolts and a flat check/skim too.

[LC0112G]

Ok today's progress,drained the oil and water. Removed the bagpipes. Then the source of the exhaust smoke became apparant. The throttle butterflies were swimming in oil.  Difficult to tell if it had filled up from the manifold or bagpipe ends, but I hope it's been sucked up into the inlet manifold via the breathers, which were also swimming in oil.

Anyway, continued and removed the throttle bodies, EGR, IACV, plenium, aux belt, header tank, air-box, battery, secondary air injection pipework, and electrical cable ducting & fuel injection manifold. That's as much as I've ever had apart on an Omega before.

Tonights homework is to read the Haynes manual before entering territory unknown.

[LC0112G]

Ok, nearly ready to hoist away and get the engine out. However, couple of questions first.

1) How many bolts are there securing the gearbox/AT to the back of the block/sump? I've found 4 small bolts from bell housing to sump, and 2 bigger bolts both on the passenger side at about the 9 o'clock position. I can't find any on the drivers side.  From memory the Straight 6 Cartons/Sennys have other big bolts - in about the 10, 11, 1 and 2 o'clock positions.

2) Never done an auto before - is it better to separate the torque converter from the flexi plate (as described in the Haynes manual), or can you just take the torque converter with the engine as it slides off the gearbox splines?

Cheers
Malcolm

[Kevin Wood]

Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate and leave it with the gearbox - otherwise you can damage the seal and bushing where the TC nose runs in the gearbox, and this will cause fluid leakage. You might also distort the TC.