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Messages - johnnydog

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31
Well, I had both keys from the problem car checked in front of my own eyes - both keys transmitted a signal from all 3 buttons.
Which led me to think that the original ECU may have actually been affected by water ingress (possibly?). Perhaps a gluten for punishment, but I decided to throughly but gently clean all the contacts for the connector block on the 'problem' ecu. Refitted it, and hey presto, the c/locking worked with both original keys as did the boot release. Tried it umpteen times and all was well. Even the interior light behaved itself and went out as it should :y
Cracked it I thought. Although the c/l was working ok, unfortunately, the interior light issue came back and refused to go out, and then the alarm decided to keep going off, and even disconnecting the battery within the 15 secs after switching the ignition off, refused to silence it. After approx an hour of alarm activations, it just stopped, but the interior light refused to go out. It eventually did after about a further hour, but after another 15 mins or so came back on without me even going near it >:(  It the went out again  and as I write this is stil out....
I think the next thing is to put the c/l  ecu from the donor car back in, and see if the interior light and alarm gremlins come back. If not, then the original ECU must be faulty - surely (?) - if they continue, I'll have to look elsewhere.....but where????
I was just curious really when the keys found to be working ok, whether the original ecu would work too.....
To be continued.. :(

32
Omega General Help / Re: Sticky buttons replacement?
« on: 02 April 2024, 23:04:57 »
In the past, I've used Lidl acrylic nail varnish remover - it's in a pink bottle. The blue bottle is for real nails, and is harsher. Don't ask how I know - I just do ::). I've tried allsorts on mine, and for me this gets the best results. It leaves a nice satin finish on the surround.
I've done several drivers door switches and  boot releases with great results.
A word of caution - go at it gently, especially around any symbols or raised areas (such as the ribbed left / right mirror selector switch and the actual mirror round adjuster button. A cotton bud helps to keep the fluid where you want it near delicate areas.
With care, you'll get great results. I've tried virtually everything else known to man, with no as good results
I am actually doing the front passenger window switch tomorrow as I removed it a couple of days ago when I took the door card off to replace the c/l motor....

33
That's OK then thanks. Got the car passes for both cars, so hopefully that side of things sorted if needed.
Is there a remote (no pun intended!) possibility that the ECU is the problem - just can't see that both keys fobs would loose communication with it, on such a frequent basis..... It did have quite a bit of water getting in around that area down the A pillar under the trim from the leak on the sunroof drain a couple of years ago. I've opened the ECU up, and there's no obvious signs of an issue.
Hopefully getting the keys checked this afternoon :y

34
Thanks very much again Chris! :y

35
Sorry to resurrect this......both my keys worked for a short while after my last post, but then they both packed up within a matter of a week or so - wouldn't unlock / lock the car or operate the boot release. The car was off the road for most of last year, and whenever I've used it since, I've locked it through the drivers door, which has done my nut in.....

Laterly, the interior light has been staying on when the doors have been shut (although the puddle lights have timed out), which kicked started me into sorting out the gremlins again.
cam.in.head has given me some helpful pointers regarding the interior light issue (cheers Chris), but I decided to try and sort the c/locking issue whilst in the drivers kick panel area.

I decided to remove the anti theft / central locking ecu from an identical breaker (age, engine and spec) having first checked that it operated the doors etc from the key for that car. Amazed that I have been pilfering it for parts for probably 12 years, with a new fob battery, it locked and unlocked all doors etc perfectly. I then removed the ATWS ECU and fitted it to the problem car, and bingo, it locked / unlocked all doors with the fob (had to replace a lazy passenger door c/l motor, but the least of my worries) and it also popped the boot perfectly.
I intend to get the original keys checked again by a different place, along with the original ECU.
Am I right in assuming that I can instead use this apparently good ATWS ECU in the problem car, with the 3 button part of the key fobs, with the horseshoe / blade and transponder chip from the problem car as one unit, as I understand from the previous posts, the button part of the fob just operates the ATWS and the c/locking etc, and the transponder chip speaks the engine ECU for engine starting, just to keep one key to operate everything?

Sorry to drag this up again...

36
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 01 April 2024, 15:05:43 »
Vesuvius

37
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 01 April 2024, 10:34:12 »
Edward

38
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 31 March 2024, 23:46:11 »
Straight

39
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 29 March 2024, 23:03:50 »
Chorley

40
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 29 March 2024, 22:13:04 »
Rock

41
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 29 March 2024, 20:46:14 »
Shoes

42
Omega General Help / Re: central locking
« on: 27 March 2024, 23:11:33 »
I have in the past tried to find out what the rules are, as far as a mot, if one doorlock  is not working with the remote.

I've never known ANY tester locking or unlocking any car I've ever presented for a test, either by the fob, key or in the case of a 'non central locking' car, the key / door locking buttons.....

43
Omega General Help / Re: central locking
« on: 26 March 2024, 21:57:03 »
Most likely will be the central locking motor starting to give up the ghost. Whenever any of mine have started playing up, the fault starts with the affected door intermittantly not locking or unlocking with the others, or being sluggish. It may be back working at the moment, but the likelihood is that it will play up  again, and then pack up altogether.

44
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Front windscreen wanted
« on: 24 March 2024, 15:00:51 »
Does anyone happen to have a spare front windscreen for an Omega with a rain sensor fitted?
Must be the standard laminated, not the heat reflective type with the overall blue haze; new (although not really something most would have as a spare  ::)!) or good used.
Will travel to collect if anyone can help.. :y
TIA

45
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 21 March 2024, 18:31:58 »
Lackey

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