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Topics - sjc

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46
Omega Gallery / Irmscher MV6 manual - with a twist
« on: 22 July 2013, 08:09:49 »
Finally got my Irmscher front bumper painted and fitted, got the front end re-painted to sort stone chips and dent on N/S wing from when someone slid into it back in the icy weather.  Couple of other bits tidied up while it was in.

Next is the facelift side mouldings.

Looking ok for 180k though I reckon.

The "twist" is that it's been retro-fitted with all the Elite extras, has been lowered a little and now has my "special" 3L V6 engine.  A few other things that should be obvious from the pictures  ;)








47
As title... I need both offside doors to complete the tidy up of my '99 MFL saloon MVElite

Pref. in Polar Sea Blue but willing to have painted if in the right condition.

I'm in Central Scotland so collection/delivery is likely to be a challenge but I'm not in a rush.

I'm not sure if using facelift doors is an option.

Cheers.

48
Hi guys

Does the PFL/MFL Irmscher front bumper use the standard bumper carrier - i.e. if I remove the standard bumper, leaving the carrier in place, should the Irmscher one just go straight on?

Cheers

49
As subject, need the hose from the coolant bridge to the throttle body for the long plenum V6.

Part 9129392

50
Anyone have a pair of good heated washer nozzles and the wiring from the nozzles to the plug under the scuttle tray?

One of the old ones is partially blocked (corroded inside) and I was getting the bonnet painted so got the bodyshop to leave them out so I could pop new ones in myself.

51
Hi guys

To eliminate a running issue I need a known working and pref low mileage  ;)  MAF and cam sensor for my '99 3L V6.

Part numbers...
90540744
90541591 (Bosch 0280 217 519)

Cheers,
Stephen

52
Omega General Help / 3L V6 cutting out when hot (intermittent)
« on: 18 June 2013, 20:01:46 »
Being having this problem for a few months now where the engine cuts out at roundabouts/junctions/etc when its warmed up and refuses to idle until you give it a minute or two to cool down just a little.

I'm also getting the EML light coming on at high revs (circa 6-7k) with code 74 MAF voltage high.  Not at all convinced this is related but I'm going to get another one to try.

I've already changed the IACV, replaced the crank sensor (with genuine GM one), cleaned breathers, switch cleaner on the plug.

Any other common causes?

53
As above really

I've converted my MV6 to manual so I have a working AR35 box available to anyone who needs it, only condition is that you collect it.

It's covered 180k, makes no odd noises but could probably use an oil change.

To save you doing the geography, I'm about 8 miles East of Stirling.

54
Omega General Help / EGR cheater for V6
« on: 11 June 2013, 22:19:23 »
For anyone looking to build an EGR cheater: This is a refresh on this post by Mark for relocated image files

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=104638.msg1364767#msg1310258

The Z22SE one should work but, the wiring is slightly different!

This is the one:



where as the Z22SE one is:



55
My Bose amp appears to have developed a fault where it constantly draws 0.23 Amp when the head unit it switched off - i.e. if you meter fuse 6, it reads 0.23 Amp and if you disconnect the wiring plug from the amp it drops to 0.

Pretty sure I've eliminated the head unit (not powering down the amp) by removing fuse 12 because that still reads 0.23 amp on fuse 6.

I've got a replacement Bose amp coming courtesy of Albs so we'll see what happens with that.

Strange one though and it runs a full battery down in just a few days.

56
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wtd: Bose amp
« on: 08 June 2013, 20:11:48 »
My Bose amp appears to have developed a fault where it constantly draws 0.23 Amp when the head unit it switched off - i.e. if you meter fuse 6, it reads 0.23 Amp and if you disconnect the wiring plug from the amp it drops to 0.

Anyway, I need to swap it for another one either to fix the problem or confirm the issue is somewhere else - suppose it could be the head unit not powering the amp down??

57
After 2 months of having the mig languishing in the driveway due to spectacular head gasket failure - including exhaust gases pouring from the header tank - I decided it was time to get the finger out and swap the engine.

This might seem a little extreme for a CHG failure but there's method in the madness, namely, this engine has done 170k and is auto (yuk) so it's being replaced with an older engine with much less mileage and a manual gearbox.

The "new" engine has also had its heads fiddled with by a certain Vauxhall tuning legend who is sadly no longer with us.  Several other popular tweaks are also under way  ;)

Anyway, some photos...  by the way, the mess on the inner wing is ejected coolant...

Old engine ready to come out


I click my fingers, and...


A fully automatic mayo making machine...


Now, if only a W12 would fit  :D

58
As part of my engine and gearbox swap, I'm removing the air-con.

Wanted to check though... the 2 fans immediately behind the front grille, are those just for the air-con.  I'm guessing they are because the coolant radiator has its own fan attached to the back of it, but want to be sure before binning them.

Cheers

59
As above really...

Part No 90571262 (manual) or 90571263 (auto)

The "cup" end is trashed on mine because whoever last removed the accelerator cable from the throttle on my V6 has managed to put it back on without removing the spring clip first - result is a mashed up spring clip stuck INSIDE the cup end and damn near snapped the throttle lever trying to get it off.

Preferably from a manual, auto will do at a push but needs to be for the long plenum - annoyingly I have a spare for the short plenum  >:(

Cheers.

60
Conversion from auto to manual on my MVElite is now underway so I will have a working AR35 autobox and torque convertor available in a day or two.

They've covered 165k, nice smooth box with no slack in initial pull (unlike many others I've driven where you seem to need a lot of revs to get it to move).  No noises or rattles.

I suspect it needs an oil change or the selector needs cleaned because if you've been pressing on and using the 1, 2, 3 gears, when you put it back into "D"rive it will sometimes drop into neutral for a few seconds, but knocking it into neutral and back to drive always sorts it out immediately.

£40 collected

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