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[Keith ABS]

  As a late update about the wheels, the cars built after 86 had different stud spacing so will not fit pre 87 cars. BMW will fit as same centres

Keith ABS

[cam.in.head]

I was under the impression that all gm 5 stud pcd was 110 mm

[Steve Brookman]

Thanks Chris,
I'm into originality-the only thing I would possibly do is change the wheels for the earlier type.

Thanks for the advice on re-torqueing-will give it a go!

Steve

[cam.in.head]

Hi steve .the retorqueing is only if you fitted earlier bolts and torqued up but not angle tightened. They say usually after 500 mile .dont actually undo the bolts by any appreciable amount.just enough to"break" the bond then re torque each one to 50 lbs .in sequence .then do each one to 74lbs ( i think. I havnt got my book here ! )the two front 6mm allen bolts may take a nip up too!.

[Steve Brookman]

Thanks Chris,
I did use the 3 stage method-your values are correct as well!

Will give it a go.

Regards

Steve

[cam.in.head]

No problem steve. Any other questions / issues with the car dont hesitate to ask 👍

[Steve Brookman]

Morning all,

having a few problems with my Senator 1983 3.0E.

When cold it starts instantly. Will also start instantly if left up to an hour after driving. If it then cools down it takes a lot of churning to start it.

This morning from cold it took a lot of churning to start and then missed a bit and eventually cleared-decided to take my Range Rover to work instead.

Wondering if I've got leaky injectors or the temp sender for the injection could be dodgy (even though it looks new).

Will try and investigate further tonight.

Any advice greatly appreciated as I'd rather use this than my other cars for the daily grind-much more comfy!

Steve

[cam.in.head]

sounds like leaky injectors to me .its a common problem on those.mine did the same when i first got it in 94.used to start after nightime perfect and if i called in a shop on way to work but would be a struggle if left for 1 to 4 hours.i found a new set of injectors on ebay and has been fine ever since but they will be harder or more expensive to find now.cleaning is an option but doesnt always work especially if the seats have become worn or damaged over time with dirt in the fuel.it might not be every injector.aside from sending them away to be tested /cleaned you could do a basic test by lifting all the injectors out but still connected up.then pressurise fuel system with the starter smallwire disconnected.to see if any are leaking but its a faf to do and you will most likely end up with leaks to the disturbed fuel hoses which will be hardened in that area.worth running some injector cleaner in the tank to see if it helps ? .one other thing you could do is fit a fuel cut off switch in line with the pump .acts as an extra anti theft too. then when you stop the car you can flick the switch before you turn off the engine.the fuel pressure will fall and the engine will start to slow down and you switch it off. leaves less pressure to bleed through the injectors .

[cam.in.head]

to check temp sender it should have a resistance of approx 3-5k ohms when cold to approx 2-500 ohms when hot. early models the resstance is across the two terminals only and infinate to earth.later models are a twin element unit and should give similar readings between any terminal and earth and double between them.i think yours will all be early single element types.make sure you are testing the bosch (usually blue) temp sender unit not the similar looking but larger thermo time switch which is also on the thermostat housing. see some google images.
one other final thing to check but you will need to plumb in a pressure guage temporarily is that the fuel pump is holding pressure itself.it has a non return valve built in to it. that why you can only suck one way through it..problem is it will be hard to tell ,if the pressure falls wether its going back through the pump or forward through the injectors.only way to prove the pump is to swap it with a know perfect one on your other car

[Marks DTM Calib]

If you floor the throttle and crank for a few seconds, then stopping and starting as normal does it fire up ok?

[Steve Brookman]

Thanks all!!!,

I will check the temp sensor tonight - if light when I get home.
It looks new-but with the quality of things today-could be kaput.

 With regards to the injectors-I'll warm it up and leave it for an hou and pull the plugs-see if any vapour etc there. I have a good set of injectors spare from Keith (ABS) so if i can identify the leaky one(s) -I'll swap over.

Regards and many thanks again

Steve

[Marks DTM Calib]

Do the above test first, it might not be the injectors (you want to prove it).

And of course, pulling the plugs wont tell a lot as the fuel would leak into the inlet manifold on all but 1/2 cylinders.

[Steve Brookman]

Had a quick look last night-but it was getting dark-resistance cold was correct but didn't have light or time to check when warming up-I'll do it on the weekend and keep the meter attached.

Started perfectly and ran as usual.

Will update on the weekend and many thanks for help.

Steve

[Steve Brookman]

Still running ok-apart from starting when left an hour.

Now completed 2000 miles.

Only noticed the other morning that the side vents are illuminated.

Will have to upgrade headlight bulbs as pretty poor on dark mornings.

Will also pump a gallon Dinitrol in before too long.

Steve

[Steve Brookman]

Going to cut back a little using the Senator over winter-will drop it to 2 days a week. Heating is not the best-think I've got air in the heater matrix-will fill the matrix via the long heater hose. Also since the first frost-petrol consumption has risen quite a bit. I'll use my Range Rover (18 years old) the other days or may use the Royale once or twice-but I don't like salty roads!

Pumped a fair bit of Dinotrol into the Royale's sills on the weekend-meant to do it when the weather was warmer-but I just enjoyed driving it!

Will also pump a bit into the Senators sills next weekend. I'll do it again in the summer when it gets warmer.

Steve