Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Lizzie Zoom on 23 June 2019, 17:06:01
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Need some advice please.
Need to clean up the front springs and the brake pipes to remove the usual crud, then coat them with a protector.
What should I clean them with, then what is the best protector for the pipes please? :)
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If its just a matter of cleaning off dirt and crap then a paraffin soaked rag works as well as anything imo. If you want to clean off rust then wire brush, coarse emery wire wool or similar abrasives.
A thin wipe of greaee on brake pipes is probably as good as anything to keep the corrosion at bay.
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Need some advice please.
Need to clean up the front springs and the brake pipes to remove the usual crud, then coat them with a protector.
What should I clean them with, then what is the best protector for the pipes please? :)
Jack the car, and jet wash the underside. That takes care of any crud, and is a good idea
Then get Superman to protect the pipes and springs.****
**** there is no point in worrying about covering brake pipes in any sort of gunge, let alone the road springs.
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If its just a matter of cleaning off dirt and crap then a paraffin soaked rag works as well as anything imo. If you want to clean off rust then wire brush, coarse emery wire wool or similar abrasives.
A thin wipe of greaee on brake pipes is probably as good as anything to keep the corrosion at bay.
Thanks Migv6 :y
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Need some advice please.
Need to clean up the front springs and the brake pipes to remove the usual crud, then coat them with a protector.
What should I clean them with, then what is the best protector for the pipes please? :)
Jack the car, and jet wash the underside. That takes care of any crud, and is a good idea
Then get Superman to protect the pipes and springs.****
**** there is no point in worrying about covering brake pipes in any sort of gunge, let alone the road springs.
Thanks Nick, and noted :y
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As above :y
But time better spent taking the plastic sills, plastic rear arch liners off, followed by lifting the front end and removing the wheels then bashing the front rails, sills and lower rear arch with a screwdriver to asses how much rot there is.
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As above :y
But time better spent taking the plastic sills, plastic rear arch liners off, followed by lifting the front end and removing the wheels then bashing the front rails, sills and lower rear arch with a screwdriver to asses how much rot there is.
Thanks, but I don't really want to know as I am sure it may scare me! ::) ::) :P
All I know is that when the specialist body shop chap looked over the car 2 years ago when he did the front end rebuild he said all was very good, although the rear wheel arches are showing the usual signs of needing that chaps skills (£1,000 it will cost me! :'( :'() ;)
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Question about using a wire brush on the brake pipes; is there not a risk of puncturing them? ??? ???
Thanks ;)
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Question about using a wire brush on the brake pipes; is there not a risk of puncturing them? ??? ???
Thanks ;)
If the brake pipes are bad enough that wire brushing makes them leak, then you're avoiding a disastrous failure.
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Question about using a wire brush on the brake pipes; is there not a risk of puncturing them? ??? ???
Thanks ;)
If the brake pipes are bad enough that wire brushing makes them leak, then you're avoiding a disastrous failure.
No, thanks, but the MOT tester said the pipes were sound but just needed a good clean off, as in the case of the springs :y
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Front brake pipes usually fine, it's the rears where they join to the flexi pipe that will be an MOT fail.
re Front end, yeh it will look fine on first look.......
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Thanks for all your replies, and now I know what I will be doing for my next project this week! :D :D
I have just finished a 10 day project to redecorate my front lounge, with the installation of three extra electric sockets, with extended the ring mains, the kitchen and bathroom in one rolling programme.
I hate being bored, so it is the car next!! ;D ;D ;)
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In which case get the chassis properly* steam cleaned.
*Properly in this context means once all the plastic bits that collect muck have been removed.
Once cleaned, any paint damage then needs to be repaired properly before reassembly.
Any local firms that export cars to New Zealand or Oz should be able to advise as both are a bit tetchy about importing dirt.
You could of course take the Tunnie/Terry approach to Omega care.
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As above :y
But time better spent taking the plastic sills, plastic rear arch liners off, followed by lifting the front end and removing the wheels then bashing the front rails, sills and lower rear arch with a screwdriver to asses how much rot there is.
Thanks, but I don't really want to know as I am sure it may scare me! ::) ::) :P
All I know is that when the specialist body shop chap looked over the car 2 years ago when he did the front end rebuild he said all was very good, although the rear wheel arches are showing the usual signs of needing that chaps skills (£1,000 it will cost me! :'( :'( ) ;)
Like this?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/hvl3h8g6qpwm829/ArchWelded2.jpg?raw=1)
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Viewers might need to zoom out a bit.... That picture has four postcodes :D
Although it isn't quite as scary as the one just before you started welding...
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rust proofing,rust prevention, can of worms ;D
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year
chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u)
kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments
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In which case get the chassis properly* steam cleaned.
*Properly in this context means once all the plastic bits that collect muck have been removed.
Once cleaned, any paint damage then needs to be repaired properly before reassembly.
Any local firms that export cars to New Zealand or Oz should be able to advise as both are a bit tetchy about importing dirt.
You could of course take the Tunnie/Terry approach to Omega care.
Thanks DG :y
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rust proofing,rust prevention, can of worms ;D
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year
chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u)
kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments
Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them :y
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rust proofing,rust prevention, can of worms ;D
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year
chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u)
kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments
Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them :y
get some supertrol too Lizzie :y
google it , it's good stuff
or you can go down the bar and chain chainsaw oil if you have a big compressor ;D
or you can pay about £500 to have your car rust proofed like Ian ,hubnut clicky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izkb1VQGX4g) did to a crappy skoda ??? ::) :o
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rust proofing,rust prevention, can of worms ;D
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year
chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u)
kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments
Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them :y
get some supertrol too Lizzie :y
google it , it's good stuff
or you can go down the bar and chain chainsaw oil if you have a big compressor ;D
or you can pay about £500 to have your car rust proofed like Ian ,hubnut clicky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izkb1VQGX4g) did to a crappy skoda ??? ::) :o
I think I will stick with the supertrol :D :y
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Whether you want to on brake lines or not be up to you, but the best rust killer (and one of the very very few that actually work, I've tried several, Hammerites kurust being an example of one which does sweet fa) is a product called fe123 from Rustbuster.
:y
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I would use wire wool on the brake pipes. :y
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Is it still on steel brakepipes? If so fit Kunifer pipes or[if you must] copper pipes and forget about them they'll see the car out.
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That also. If the steel pipes ar still in good order, then of course if it aint broke dont fix it etc... however I spend my life smothering love and attention on my brake lines but still had to replace two so far, and I presume the 'mirrored' pipe on the other side wont be far behind. My last one looked 'fine' until I disturbed it and a little tear of brake fluid then appeared. ;)
Can pay for them to be made, but for the price of one you could buy the gear and make them on the dining table over a cuppa. :y
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Whether you want to on brake lines or not be up to you, but the best rust killer (and one of the very very few that actually work, I've tried several, Hammerites kurust being an example of one which does sweet fa) is a product called fe123 from Rustbuster.
:y
Thanks for that :y :y
I've looked up the prices and it is certainly not cheap, but if it does the job, so be it! :D ;)
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By all means have a Google, see the reviews, group tests from Practical Classics etc, who've tried it. And you're right, its not, and that's about the only criticism anyone has of it. However one thought I did have is the piddly 100ml bottle of kurust or whatever, versus the 500ml (I think) of the fe123, when you work out the pence per ml cost, it isn't as bad as it first feels.
The nasty scab of floorpan rust under the carpets which I treated with the stuff is currently outlasting the not-cheap professional spray job on my back arches, which have started to bubble again. :'(
I also have used it on my NS rear wishbone, with their epoxy 121 paint, its had a winter, so I'll inspect when I get a day off and see how its fared :)
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I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.
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I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.
Good to know :y
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I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.
Good to know :y
Indeed, and I have got many choices to make now! Thanks 8) 8) :y :y
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As above :y
But time better spent taking the plastic sills, plastic rear arch liners off, followed by lifting the front end and removing the wheels then bashing the front rails, sills and lower rear arch with a screwdriver to asses how much rot there is.
Right, I am now sych'd up to remove them to inspect whatever is underneath, which a specialist car body shop looked at 2+ years ago and said were fine. But now after the various posts on here I feel I must look at the sills whilst I am decrudding the springs and brake pipes.
How do you remove them though without breaking the fixings and then replace them afterwards please?
Never done this job on any Omega I have owned, but I know from past experiences on other cars the clips that must hold on the sills will be brittle, or will they?
Does not seem to be any guides on this job, so advice would be very welcome please!! ;)
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Undo the torx screw beneath the front edge and pop off all the pop clips under the bottom edge (9 from memory). Then turn the steering to full lock whichever side you're working on. Finally slide the cover forward about 4" and it will fall off.
Skip any steps and you won't remove it without damage.
To refit, simply place the sill cover in position by locating the bottom edge and slap it into each clip with your hand. Then refit the pop clips and the screw.
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Once the sill cover is off, you can pop out the centres of the rear cap pins and simply pull the cover away. Retrieve the centre pins for refitting.
Wheel arch liners are retained by centre pin clips and 10mm plastic nuts. Go easy as the threaded studs rust and go brittle.
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Thanks very much DG! 8) 8) :y
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.... Then start scraping away..... :'(
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.... Then start scraping away..... :'(
That is what worries me! ::) ::) ::) :D ;)
Perhaps it is best to just carry on, do nothing, and trust it keeps on passing the MOT :P :P ;D ;D ;)
Nah, I just cannot do that after all the advice! :)
Besides I have started to get the products advised together, and I have put GD's great guide on removing the sills onto a document now in my Omega giant log book of maintenance instructions, invoices and everything else I have filed since the old girl's purchase!
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I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I use Dinitrol rust converter and results are good and appear to last well. I also am well impressed with the Bilt Hamber Dynax50 as a cavity and box section rust prevention, but also think Supertrol is superb. It penetrates spot welded seams rather than bridging them like the thicker treatments. I use them all on my classics as well and I haven't found anything better for DIY treatment.
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Well, after taking the last and all the other posts into account, I have now placed an order with Amazon for the Supertrol in 500ml cans x2 for £17 and free delivery ;)
My plan is now that I wire brush / wire wool all the crud off the springs and brake pipes. I will treat with Kurust to eat the awful stuff and then apply Supertrol.
I will follow Doctor Gollum's clear instructions to safely (I hope!! ::)) remove the sill covers and treat the metal according to how I find it, with Supertrol being applied.
Good plan? ??? ??? ???
Many thanks all! :-* :-* :y
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Well, after taking the last and all the other posts into account, I have now placed an order with Amazon for the Supertrol in 500ml cans x2 for £17 and free delivery ;)
Had you used my LINK for supertrol (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u) you'd have got 3 cans for £17.07 plus free delivery ::) or was my supertrol not expensive enough for you :P
My plan is now that I wire brush / wire wool all the crud off the springs and brake pipes. I will treat with Kurust to eat the awful stuff and then apply Supertrol.
I will follow Doctor Gollum's clear instructions to safely (I hope!! ::)) remove the sill covers and treat the metal according to how I find it, with Supertrol being applied.
Good plan? ??? ??? ???
Many thanks all! :-* :-* :y
Supertrol comes with a straw ,for squirting inside sills ,chassis legs,sunframes ,door bottoms (via the drains if you don't want to take the cards off), wheel arches inside the boot, etc etc
it won't last on brake pipes or springs :-X
springs and shocks/struts, brackets etc you could paint with hammerite or rust protection paint ,along with brake lines if you must.
I use a spray silver zinc galv metal protection paint on brake lines because any failure of the paint will clearly show rust through when next inspected (before MOT) and any leaks of brake fluid would also show better ,its also good to get in nooks and crannies and all round the brake pipes, ferrules,clips (not just the part you can see)
kurust will stabilize the remaining rust once the thick is wire wooled off, but won't protect much , think of it as a primer :y
I've not used FE123 , but it may be better than kurust (which is more of a DIY product) perhaps applied with a garden sprayer :-\ ,which you can't do with kurust ,it blocks the nozzle ,i tried ;D
also worth saying that the factory "underseal" is shyte on the front chassis legs etc and various other areas and if you find rust, cut/scrape the underseal off until you find a good clean surface ,prime and metal paint it then stonechip or underseal
good luck ,hope you don't find any nasties when the sill covers are off , but if you do , at least you can get it sorted and future proofed :y
My sills where fine ,bar some light rust round the rivet nipples and a few other areas (now treated and painted and squirted supertrol inside), 53 plate with 80K miles (age/mileage has an impact on rust)
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Well, after taking the last and all the other posts into account, I have now placed an order with Amazon for the Supertrol in 500ml cans x2 for £17 and free delivery ;)
Had you used my LINK for supertrol (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Rust-Proofing-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:744AAOSwqS5b7F7u) you'd have got 3 cans for £17.07 plus free delivery ::) or was my supertrol not expensive enough for you :P
My plan is now that I wire brush / wire wool all the crud off the springs and brake pipes. I will treat with Kurust to eat the awful stuff and then apply Supertrol.
I will follow Doctor Gollum's clear instructions to safely (I hope!! ::)) remove the sill covers and treat the metal according to how I find it, with Supertrol being applied.
Good plan? ??? ??? ???
Many thanks all! :-* :-* :y
Supertrol comes with a straw ,for squirting inside sills ,chassis legs,sunframes ,door bottoms (via the drains if you don't want to take the cards off), wheel arches inside the boot, etc etc
it won't last on brake pipes or springs :-X
springs and shocks/struts, brackets etc you could paint with hammerite or rust protection paint ,along with brake lines if you must.
I use a spray silver zinc galv metal protection paint on brake lines because any failure of the paint will clearly show rust through when next inspected (before MOT) and any leaks of brake fluid would also show better ,its also good to get in nooks and crannies and all round the brake pipes, ferrules,clips (not just the part you can see)
kurust will stabilize the remaining rust once the thick is wire wooled off, but won't protect much , think of it as a primer :y
I've not used FE123 , but it may be better than kurust (which is more of a DIY product) perhaps applied with a garden sprayer :-\ ,which you can't do with kurust ,it blocks the nozzle ,i tried ;D
also worth saying that the factory "underseal" is shyte on the front chassis legs etc and various other areas and if you find rust, cut/scrape the underseal off until you find a good clean surface ,prime and metal paint it then stonechip or underseal
good luck ,hope you don't find any nasties when the sill covers are off , but if you do , at least you can get it sorted and future proofed :y
My sills where fine ,bar some light rust round the rivet nipples and a few other areas (now treated and painted and squirted supertrol inside), 53 plate with 80K miles (age/mileage has an impact on rust)
Thanks Dave, points noted! :y :y
I suppose on a now 16 year old car how far do I want to go to. But I would like it to last another 10 years if possible :D :)
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Probably 12 - 18 months ago I outlined how I had removed all the rear trim from my Omegas (inside the boot and rear seat area) to gain full access to the inner rear wheel arches. I did this when I got the cars, and the arches were solid then, and are still perfect now.
The access to the offside wheelarch is restricted on the saloon due to the fuel filler neck, but if the flap is removed a spray with a lance can get round it.
Supertrol is excellent for seams and smaller inner areas - not for panels exposed to the outside elements.
I personally would do the majority of it with the Bilt Hamber Dynax50 - it comes with a long lance with a brass revolving tip that theoretically gives a 360 degree coverage. It is durable, and fast drying.
It is more than adequate to brush onto brake pipes (dont get it on any rubber flexible hoses)
As with all these products keep the spray away from rubber bushes as the white spirit in it to make it sprayable will damage rubber making them like jelly.
Chassis rails and exposed areas on the underside requires a tougher product, but as many can crack causing damp to penetrate resulting in trapped corrosion, I tend to coat applied under body protection periodically with waxoyl / bilt hamber purely to keep the product flexible to avoid cracking and or drying out.
It has worked on my classics which are all between 40 and 45 years old, all original with no structural issues.
Just my experiences- others may have differing views, but any rust prevention can't be a bad thing...
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Probably 12 - 18 months ago I outlined how I had removed all the rear trim from my Omegas (inside the boot and rear seat area) to gain full access to the inner rear wheel arches. I did this when I got the cars, and the arches were solid then, and are still perfect now.
The access to the offside wheelarch is restricted on the saloon due to the fuel filler neck, but if the flap is removed a spray with a lance can get round it.
Supertrol is excellent for seams and smaller inner areas - not for panels exposed to the outside elements.
I personally would do the majority of it with the Bilt Hamber Dynax50 - it comes with a long lance with a brass revolving tip that theoretically gives a 360 degree coverage. It is durable, and fast drying.
It is more than adequate to brush onto brake pipes (dont get it on any rubber flexible hoses)
As with all these products keep the spray away from rubber bushes as the white spirit in it to make it sprayable will damage rubber making them like jelly.
Chassis rails and exposed areas on the underside requires a tougher product, but as many can crack causing damp to penetrate resulting in trapped corrosion, I tend to coat applied under body protection periodically with waxoyl / bilt hamber purely to keep the product flexible to avoid cracking and or drying out.
It has worked on my classics which are all between 40 and 45 years old, all original with no structural issues.
Just my experiences- others may have differing views, but any rust prevention can't be a bad thing...
Thank you, points noted 8) :y
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Just to help, the fe123 comes in a bottle, like a squeezy sauce, oddly. Anyway, it is the consistency of other products like kurust, actually reminded me of milk, it applies itself in a very similar way/viscosity. I also understand it can be watered down a little, oddly (though not much, it warns) never sprayed it on myself.
May have some pics I took when I was using it on doing my back wishbones, if I find them I'll upload them; though its not that interesting! :y
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Just to help, the fe123 comes in a bottle, like a squeezy sauce, oddly. Anyway, it is the consistency of other products like kurust, actually reminded me of milk, it applies itself in a very similar way/viscosity. I also understand it can be watered down a little, oddly (though not much, it warns) never sprayed it on myself.
May have some pics I took when I was using it on doing my back wishbones, if I find them I'll upload them; though its not that interesting! :y
Thanks. My Supertrol is being delivered to day 8) :y
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Good good.
Certainly will look int the Supertrol stuff :)
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Good good.
Certainly will look int the Supertrol stuff :)
Yes, arrived as promised from Amazon.
:)
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At last today I was ready. My back was not playing up and the sun was shining hotly!
Jacked the car up on the four corners and cleaned the springs, brake pipes, and a few bits of chassis needing just a little attention.
Did what you all recommended; washed parts down with parrafin, after wire brushing as required. Brushed liberally Kurust, then spay painted with Hammerite black paint. Sprayed copious amounts of Supertrol into every hole into the chassis I could find were it was vulnerable. Couldn't remove the sills as DG recommended as mud flaps, fitted by Vx, rather got in the way, and as the whole inner sill areas on both sides, looking from the centre of the car, were very good, without holes and absolutely no sign of rust, I decided to leave well alone. However, knowing what you have all said about what could be under the sill covers, I sprayed a whole 250ml can of Supertrol up into the gaps between the covers and chassis, all along on both sides with satisfying drips of the stuff coming out after a few seconds.
All done and looking good. However, the MOT tester who posted the advisories I think was being very strict, although as they know this car well, doing me a favour. The springs and pipes only had a very light dusting of 'muck', which when washed off with paraffin quickly revealed, in the case of all four springs around the car (only the front two were advised on), pure black plastic coated metal, which I still treated with Kurust and the Hammerite paint for good measure, as only in two small areas was there a break in the finish, showing a very small amount of rust cover which disappeared with wire brushing.
It has been a year since I was last under the car (do not like it as much as I once did due to age!!), but I was delighted in the overall condition of the chassis and all parts there under! It did not reflect a car of 16 years age with 77,000 miles on the clock. When I think back to my first car, a 10 year old Austin Farina bodied A40, the difference is fantastic! That 10 year old car had bits of chassis missing, the passenger seat 'floated' in mid air, the sills were shot and not connected to the bodywork by anything but old newspapers, and the bodywork had rust holes the size of fists everywhere - although it still passed two MOT's in 1971 and 1972!! :o :o :o :D
The Omega is so clean on top and underneath, albeit with the infamous rear wheel arch rusting starting to show which I keep on top of regularly, pending hopefully professional attention one day of £1,000 worth! But apart from that, all is good! 8) 8) 8) ;)
Thanks for all the great advise I received from you all. Mechanical stuff is fine with me, but anything to do with bodywork and finish generally is not my speciality by any means! ::) ::) :D :D :y
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I think the point is with any car, catching it at the right time. In the case of some vehicles that would be shortly before they leave the production line!
Far easier to whizz over something with a wire brush, and a coat of underseal on today, than a lengthy cut out old rust, weld in new plate, bodyshop work etc... tomorrow.
Some bits on mine I've caught in time, others not quite so :D but we can only do what we can do. :y
Old school way of thinking but every time you're underneath with an oily rag, just give the nearest 'thing' a wipe over, its amazing how it helps keep corrosion at bay, another tip I got was whiz a dusting of WD40 over your radiator whenever you're down there. :)
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I think the point is with any car, catching it at the right time. In the case of some vehicles that would be shortly before they leave the production line!
Far easier to whizz over something with a wire brush, and a coat of underseal on today, than a lengthy cut out old rust, weld in new plate, bodyshop work etc... tomorrow.
Some bits on mine I've caught in time, others not quite so :D but we can only do what we can do. :y
Old school way of thinking but every time you're underneath with an oily rag, just give the nearest 'thing' a wipe over, its amazing how it helps keep corrosion at bay, another tip I got was whiz a dusting of WD40 over your radiator whenever you're down there. :)
Yes, I was brought up to remember a crucial saying: "A stitch in time saves nine" which used to apply to keeping garments especially in good state, but can apply to anything :D :y :y
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
I have looked all round those parts Dave but all looks perfect. But thanks, next week I will have another look 8) :y
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
I have looked all round those parts Dave but all looks perfect. But thanks, next week I will have another look 8) :y
"the infamous rear wheel arch rusting starting to show"
it's preventative , to get supertrol to seep into the weld seams of the arches to stop rust
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
I have looked all round those parts Dave but all looks perfect. But thanks, next week I will have another look 8) :y
"the infamous rear wheel arch rusting starting to show"
it's preventative , to get supertrol to seep into the weld seams of the arches to stop rust
The trouble is Dave the rust is already there inside the arches, and I have been doing all I can on the outside to stop it spreading. However, I take the point about the Supertrol, and will do what I did yesterday with the sills; spray a lot into the inner panels.
What are the openings in the boot, alongside the spare wheel and on the other side, that you can use to get into the wheel arch panels? ??? ??? :D :y
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
I have looked all round those parts Dave but all looks perfect. But thanks, next week I will have another look 8) :y
"the infamous rear wheel arch rusting starting to show"
it's preventative , to get supertrol to seep into the weld seams of the arches to stop rust
The trouble is Dave the rust is already there inside the arches, and I have been doing all I can on the outside to stop it spreading. However, I take the point about the Supertrol, and will do what I did yesterday with the sills; spray a lot into the inner panels.
What are the openings in the boot, alongside the spare wheel and on the other side, that you can use to get into the wheel arch panels? ??? ??? :D :y
remove the spare wheel and you can see the back of the wheel arch forward of where the spare well is , similar on the other side by the fuel flap etc hard to get too but supertrol all joints etc
also , if you can tuck the straw behind/ in the gap of the dealer fit mud flaps at the rear of the sills :-\
into the door drains etc etc
in fact, just buy a swimming pool of supertrol and dip the car in ;D :D
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Well done Lizzie :)
give the wheel arch seams a good squirt of supertrol from inside the boot too for the time being
(behind the spare and in the flap where the tyre pump lives ) :y
I have looked all round those parts Dave but all looks perfect. But thanks, next week I will have another look 8) :y
"the infamous rear wheel arch rusting starting to show"
it's preventative , to get supertrol to seep into the weld seams of the arches to stop rust
The trouble is Dave the rust is already there inside the arches, and I have been doing all I can on the outside to stop it spreading. However, I take the point about the Supertrol, and will do what I did yesterday with the sills; spray a lot into the inner panels.
What are the openings in the boot, alongside the spare wheel and on the other side, that you can use to get into the wheel arch panels? ??? ??? :D :y
remove the spare wheel and you can see the back of the wheel arch forward of where the spare well is , similar on the other side by the fuel flap etc hard to get too but supertrol all joints etc
also , if you can tuck the straw behind/ in the gap of the dealer fit mud flaps at the rear of the sills :-\
into the door drains etc etc
in fact, just buy a swimming pool of supertrol and dip the car in ;D :D
Thanks Dave, all understood and will do! 8) 8) :y
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What are the openings in the boot, alongside the spare wheel and on the other side, that you can use to get into the wheel arch panels? ??? ??? :D :y
[/quote]
If you remove the floor and wheel arch carpets, and side pieces, this allows access to the rear of the wheel arches. Removing the petrol flap from the outside and the petrol flap motor from the inside of the o/s wing allows better access around the filler neck. It is also a good idea to remove the rear seat side bolsters and the rear seat belt reel, to gain better access to the front the wheel arch by the door, and also avoids getting the spray over the exposed seatbelt inside the body whilst in situ (been there, done that, and its a pain to clean it off the seatbelt material if you don't!).
To get the spray at the leading edge of the rear arches needs you to be a bit of a contortionist, and needs a good aim to get it in the right area. A long lance can help. I have also used garden flower sprays - the handheld type that are about a pound from B+Q as the spray pattern can be changed from a fan to a jet (as I managed to get a gallon of Supertrol to dispense into the flower sprays) Otherwise, the fluid coming out of the nozzle needs to be a jet rather than a fan to get in this area. It helps too if you can rig up a little light that you can dangle in the panel being worked on so you can see what obstacles there are and where the fluid is going. A nice warm day is ideal to keep the fluid runnier.
It is worth the hassle - I did it many years ago, and there is no rust visible anywhere on the wheelarches of my 3 cars, both on the outer wing and the seam underneath.
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Thanks :y :y
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Removing the rearward wheel arch liner form the osr wheel arch gives all the access you could ever need to the filler neck area :y
The filler aperture is outside/below the inner wing.
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Removing the rearward wheel arch liner form the osr wheel arch gives all the access you could ever need to the filler neck area :y
The filler aperture is outside/below the inner wing.
Thanks DG :y :y
When I work again on the car I really will go there again. ;)
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What were the front chassis legs like?
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What were the front chassis legs like?
All very good I am pleased to say, and there was only one small piece of chassis in the frontal area that needed a bit of light wire brushing, then rust treatment before painting with Hammerite :y
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What were the front chassis legs like?
All very good I am pleased to say, and there was only one small piece of chassis in the frontal area that needed a bit of light wire brushing, then rust treatment before painting with Hammerite :y
Presumably that small piece was arround the strengthening plate where the engine cradle mounts on the offside.... It always is!
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What were the front chassis legs like?
All very good I am pleased to say, and there was only one small piece of chassis in the frontal area that needed a bit of light wire brushing, then rust treatment before painting with Hammerite :y
Presumably that small piece was arround the strengthening plate where the engine cradle mounts on the offside.... It always is!
Yes, dead right, it was! :D ;)