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[Marks DTM Calib]

Well, ok, when I say bang on I mean in the green. But when I did the alignment my only concern for that day was doing the toe.

Oh young Mr Bear, you have fallen into the default spanner twirler trap of 'in the green'.

Set the front to bang on -1.10.....

[Webby the Bear]

 

Ok, I'll be giving myself 100 lashes later on.

For now however...

I'll get the toe set to the above spec.

Dbg when I mentioned about my rear toe, I meant that the camber was in the green and the rear toe was in the red. If like you say the camber doesn't adjust that much then I'll get the toe up to spec and the camber shouldn't have moved much. But obviously I'll verify that with das Hoffman   

[Diamond Black Geezer]

well worth getting the toe bang on, but as has been said, it is very much a compromise. I really don't know why mine should be so far out, the rear axle camber looks like a touring car! no idea if something like a bent rear subframe or something would affect it. I have some spare wishbones which'll be going on in the summer, so may report back with more news regarding geometry setting changes for you 

[Shackeng]

What make tyres are on it?

[Stargazer57N]

Could also be a shit road surface

You could be right there I find my estate wanders on bad roads but I also put that down to the budget tyres the seller put on it.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for the input guys.

I currently have BCT S600's on at the moment. But I am changing them in next couple of months cos they're unacceptably noisy. Going to get some Rainsports 3's 👍

As for the way forward I need rear pads so I'm nipping in on my day off to do my brakes and get the toe set up to marks spec and I'll see how it drives after that

[05omegav6]

Head meet wall...

Set it as follows...
Front:
Camber 1 degree 10 minutes.
Toe 0 degrees 5 minutes in.

Rear:
Camber and Toe as best you can to middle of green, toe ideally will be 0 degrees 6 minutes in, with about 2 degrees, 45 minutes camber. This will be a compromise as each vehicle varies and one adjustment does both... However the rear thrust angle MUST BE ZERO... Not so much as a minute more or less

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Taxi :-)

[TheBoy]

Camber affects how the car reacts on anything other than a racetrack smooth tarmac, even in a straight line.

However, assuming everything not worn, a wander that is "vague", rather than a definite pull, is likely to be tyres.  A definite pull in one direction on a flat road is likely to be thrust angle, poor toe, or castor.  Front toe shouldn't cause a pull, though with a steering box, will cause strange effects when turning.

Note the common factor is tyres, so if you've ruled out worn components, and learn to use that machine properly - which you clearly have some way to go, as its not about just setting it green (or even to a specific set of values) - then you have to look at getting a tyre suitable for an Omega.


Now chrisgixer did try a thread some time back to find tyres that "worked" on Omegas, with his hypersensitivity to tramlining, it was biased around tyres that do go straight - the sort of tyre you could be hacking down the motorway in, and look in rear view mirror for a few seconds, without fear of changing lanes.

[Webby the Bear]

Camber affects how the car reacts on anything other than a racetrack smooth tarmac, even in a straight line.

However, assuming everything not worn, a wander that is "vague", rather than a definite pull, is likely to be tyres.  A definite pull in one direction on a flat road is likely to be thrust angle, poor toe, or castor.  Front toe shouldn't cause a pull, though with a steering box, will cause strange effects when turning.

Note the common factor is tyres, so if you've ruled out worn components, and learn to use that machine properly - which you clearly have some way to go, as its not about just setting it green (or even to a specific set of values) - then you have to look at getting a tyre suitable for an Omega.


Now chrisgixer did try a thread some time back to find tyres that "worked" on Omegas, with his hypersensitivity to tramlining, it was biased around tyres that do go straight - the sort of tyre you could be hacking down the motorway in, and look in rear view mirror for a few seconds, without fear of changing lanes.

Not wishing to be argumentative but how is it that toe being out can't cause a pull? Every car that comes in where owner complains of wandering it's always toe. Always.

I also did mention that I've only just learned how to use the machine 

Finally can you explain how it's any more complicated than setting values? The spec is set up through the computer. And I'm aware that OOF recommend some slightly tweaked settings given to us by WIM which I believe take in to consideration component wear etc.

Take on board all the info 

[TheBoy]

If the front toe is out one side, and taking all other forces out of the equation for simplicity, that toe will simply balance to both sides, meaning toe will be the same on both sides.  Admittedly, the steering wheel will be off cock, but that will not cause a pull.

Don't confuse a pull (a definite force to want to steer slightly one way) with a wander (vagueness causing it not to want to go in a straight line).  For front toe to cause wander, it would have to be so far out that there would be wear complaints.  Its component wear and shit tyres that are usually to blame.

As to settings, its not that simple. Our aging cars all have different stages of suspension/steering wear, and we all have different driving styles.  Ride height on many cars, including Omegas, affects geometry - which is why WIM developed a baseline to work from, taking into account our ageing cars.  And from that, each car is unique - I know one of mine has a lot more castor dialled in than the other in order to keep it straight on normal roads.

[Webby the Bear]

OK fair comments tb, 

[Webby the Bear]

Not bumping. But genuine question...

I think I may attempt the front camber adjustment using our places Hoffman. Not a big deal to some of you guys I'm sure but it seems a ball ache to me.

Anyways I figure it wil help with learning.

So this was the way I was going to do it, if one of you guys can say yay or nay to my ideas....

Loosen both strut bolts prior to it going on the alignment rack (figure I'll have a lot more room if they're on super tight (I doubt they will be though)

Tighten back up but not tight so I can loosen them easy

Drive straight on to the alignment ramp

Set up aligner

Re-loosen strut bolts, get someone to push in / pull back on the road wheel

Get him to hold that position when at 1"10 minutes. Tighten strut bolts

Readjust toe as I presume adjusting camber will alter toe as well

Get off alignment rack, remove wheels and torque strut bolts to spec in their new adjusted positions



Sound like a plan? As said I've never adjusted front camber on any car so just making sure I got the procedure down.

[Webby the Bear]

Not bumping. But genuine question...

I think I may attempt the front camber adjustment using our places Hoffman. Not a big deal to some of you guys I'm sure but it seems a ball ache to me.

Anyways I figure it wil help with learning.

So this was the way I was going to do it, if one of you guys can say yay or nay to my ideas....

Loosen both strut bolts prior to it going on the alignment rack (figure I'll have a lot more room if they're on super tight (I doubt they will be though)

Tighten back up but not tight so I can loosen them easy

Drive straight on to the alignment ramp

Set up aligner

Re-loosen strut bolts, get someone to push in / pull back on the road wheel

Get him to hold that position when at 1"10 minutes. Tighten strut bolts

Readjust toe as I presume adjusting camber will alter toe as well

Get off alignment rack, remove wheels and torque strut bolts to spec in their new adjusted positions



Sound like a plan? As said I've never adjusted front camber on any car so just making sure I got the procedure down.

Anyone???

[Doctor Gollum]

That all works, but bolts can be torqued with the wheels on and car on ramp