Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: polilara on 02 August 2018, 06:47:25
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Hello
Now and then I see products like this promising increased power, fuel economy etc. What is present opinion of those. Discussed here earlier but difficult to get understanding is it worth doing. I have autobox AR-25.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chip-Tuning-Box-OPEL-OMEGA-B-2-6-V6-132kW-180HP-Petrol-Performance-CS2/282998777208?fits=Car+Make%3AOpel%7CModel%3AOmega+B&hash=item41e40aa578:g:ngUAAOSwjzJbGS6o
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Better off buying magic beans and put them in the glove box. That would add more power!
What you want is an ECU map/flash, not tuning box.
Zirk on here is best to comment, think he has his done.
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Better off buying magic beans and put them in the glove box. That would add more power!
What you want is an ECU map/flash, not tuning box.
Zirk on here is best to comment, think he has his done.
OK, thanks, let's wait Zirk to comment. In the meantime could you please explain what "Map/Flash" means. Is it up-to-dating ECU?
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Agree with Tunnie here & magic beans . . .but even if it does work , the weak link if more power is available or gained on a 2.6 . . . is the AR25 transmission ::) ::)
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Better off buying magic beans and put them in the glove box. That would add more power!
What you want is an ECU map/flash, not tuning box.
Zirk on here is best to comment, think he has his done.
OK, thanks, let's wait Zirk to comment. In the meantime could you please explain what "Map/Flash" means. Is it up-to-dating ECU?
Yes it’s an update, 3.0/2.5’s you could replace the chip. 2.6 & 3.2 need to be re-written.
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OK, just checked with my code reader data from my ECU, there are several numbers e.g.
System Supplier ECU Software number 1037360515 and
Version Number 0D41
Programming Date 20001201 (perhaps Dec 1. 2000)
Calibration Date 21130401 (this is not clear, perhaps a typing error of the calibrator person, remember I got a letter from GM in 2004 to get something to ECU.
So what is the latest version of ECU and what is the difference in practice to the present version. Do I have to go to dealer? (in Finland)
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It would be a dealer job to check that it has the latest software on it... This would include gearbox, abs, climate control, engine ecu and possibly headlights if Xenons are fitted.
What they charge for this will be anything from a finger to a kidney :-\
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Hello
Now and then I see products like this promising increased power, fuel economy etc. What is present opinion of those. Discussed here earlier but difficult to get understanding is it worth doing. I have autobox AR-25.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chip-Tuning-Box-OPEL-OMEGA-B-2-6-V6-132kW-180HP-Petrol-Performance-CS2/282998777208?fits=Car+Make%3AOpel%7CModel%3AOmega+B&hash=item41e40aa578:g:ngUAAOSwjzJbGS6o
Dont waste your time or money on eBay Tunning Boxes for the Omega (or any Non Turbo'ed Engine for that matter), they are just MAF Foolers, in its simplest form can be a resistor added inline with the Maf Sensor to change the resistive/inductive Maf Valve into to fooling the ECU that more Air or Cold Air is being fed into the Intake and get the ECU to over Fuel, your just bugger the ECU workings, plus modern systems will detect this with exhaust sensors and attempt to re adjust the ECU fueling back anyway.
On the second part of the post I believe the OP is confusing an ECU Update with a ReMap, an ECU update from the Dealer is simply that, and will not increase Power. An After Market ReMap (or ReChip) is designed to change the ECUs Memory Map for increased Performance, MPG, Power and Torque, although these increased gains on Aspirated Engines are minimal when compared to Turbo Engines.
On the Omega V6's, the early Non DBW, 2.5 and 3.0 had there Map Data stored in an Eprom (Read Only Chip) and therefore the only way to change the Map Data was to replace the Eprom with another Re Programmed Eprom (Re Chip, Chipped, SuperChip etc to name a few), on the later DBW V6's the Map Data was stored by Flashing to the Memory, meaning the Map Data is stored and can be reprogrammed without changing any Chip Hardware (ie known as ReMap, ECU ReFlashing etc). The basic process between the terms ReChip and ReMap is the same, its just a question of how its done, although admittedly there is a vast difference between the early 1980's type Engine ECUs and modern day ECUs.
Ive ReMapped both 3.0, 2.6 and 3.2 Omega's with moderate to reasonable results in Power, Driveabilty and increased MPG, but dont expect it to transform your Car into something it was never meant to be, only noticeable gains can be achieved, if you can add a better free flowing Exaust System with the ReMap then you will see better gains. The 3.2 is probably the one thats most noticeable with a decent ReMap, especially if you can get the Map Data to be rid of all the Tree Hugging elements that are built into the original.
As for your 2.6, a set of G Cams will improve BHP on there own, but add that with a decent Remap and better exhaust system and you will see good gains, Torque wise though its never going to be as good as a 3.2. As for your AR25, without shooting myself in the foot, I personally wouldnt worry, I doubt if your going to achieve the increased Torque which is normally what kills these boxes off, although if your thinking of upgrading to a AR35 that is a worth while upgrade anyway.
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Thanks zirk for professional answer, now this is clear and that is why I asked this forum. So better to concentrate on "magic beans and put them in the glove box..."
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Thanks zirk for professional answer, now this is clear and that is why I asked this forum. So better to concentrate on "magic beans and put them in the glove box..."
Youre welcome, I wouldnt rule out getting a set off G Camshafts from a 3.0 or 3.2 and get them replaced next time you do a CamBelt Change, G Cams swop on there own will give you 15 to 20 Bhp more. ;)
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Thanks zirk for professional answer, now this is clear and that is why I asked this forum. So better to concentrate on "magic beans and put them in the glove box..."
Youre welcome, I wouldnt rule out getting a set off G Camshafts from a 3.0 or 3.2 and get them replaced next time you do a CamBelt Change, G Cams swop on there own will give you 15 to 20 Bhp more. ;)
I did my 2.5 but was disapointed with the results,certainly more power at the top end but mine seemed to lose torque low down which being auto made it feel a little tardy unless pressing on :-\
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Hello
Now and then I see products like this promising increased power, fuel economy etc. What is present opinion of those. Discussed here earlier but difficult to get understanding is it worth doing. I have autobox AR-25.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chip-Tuning-Box-OPEL-OMEGA-B-2-6-V6-132kW-180HP-Petrol-Performance-CS2/282998777208?fits=Car+Make%3AOpel%7CModel%3AOmega+B&hash=item41e40aa578:g:ngUAAOSwjzJbGS6o
Dont waste your time or money on eBay Tunning Boxes for the Omega (or any Non Turbo'ed Engine for that matter), they are just MAF Foolers, in its simplest form can be a resistor added inline with the Maf Sensor to change the resistive/inductive Maf Valve into to fooling the ECU that more Air or Cold Air is being fed into the Intake and get the ECU to over Fuel, your just bugger the ECU workings, plus modern systems will detect this with exhaust sensors and attempt to re adjust the ECU fueling back anyway.
On the second part of the post I believe the OP is confusing an ECU Update with a ReMap, an ECU update from the Dealer is simply that, and will not increase Power. An After Market ReMap (or ReChip) is designed to change the ECUs Memory Map for increased Performance, MPG, Power and Torque, although these increased gains on Aspirated Engines are minimal when compared to Turbo Engines.
On the Omega V6's, the early Non DBW, 2.5 and 3.0 had there Map Data stored in an Eprom (Read Only Chip) and therefore the only way to change the Map Data was to replace the Eprom with another Re Programmed Eprom (Re Chip, Chipped, SuperChip etc to name a few), on the later DBW V6's the Map Data was stored by Flashing to the Memory, meaning the Map Data is stored and can be reprogrammed without changing any Chip Hardware (ie known as ReMap, ECU ReFlashing etc). The basic process between the terms ReChip and ReMap is the same, its just a question of how its done, although admittedly there is a vast difference between the early 1980's type Engine ECUs and modern day ECUs.
Ive ReMapped both 3.0, 2.6 and 3.2 Omega's with moderate to reasonable results in Power, Driveabilty and increased MPG, but dont expect it to transform your Car into something it was never meant to be, only noticeable gains can be achieved, if you can add a better free flowing Exaust System with the ReMap then you will see better gains. The 3.2 is probably the one thats most noticeable with a decent ReMap, especially if you can get the Map Data to be rid of all the Tree Hugging elements that are built into the original.
As for your 2.6, a set of G Cams will improve BHP on there own, but add that with a decent Remap and better exhaust system and you will see good gains, Torque wise though its never going to be as good as a 3.2. As for your AR25, without shooting myself in the foot, I personally wouldnt worry, I doubt if your going to achieve the increased Torque which is normally what kills these boxes off, although if your thinking of upgrading to a AR35 that is a worth while upgrade anyway.
Sorry for refloating but I have a question about this. I have a 2,6 model with 3.0 engine and all 2,6 electronic and lpg conversion. I'm having problems with the lambda probe and the problem could come from a bad mix. It´s possible Remap wiht the 3,0 improved map the 2,6 ECU? Can you do it?
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You could fit an ecu from the 3.2 (with transponder ring and key chip).
It will probably run better :y
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You could fit an ecu from the 3.2 (with transponder ring and key chip).
It will probably run better :y
The question is the RC I think, 3.0 is bigger than 2,6-3,2, but 3.2 wold be a solution
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Hi Zirk, your inbox is full :y
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First fit Ar35 then fit a 3.2 in with g cams. Job done.
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In the UK, I wouldn't bother pissing around with doing anything on a 2.6 nowadays. Throw in a 3.2. And then consider further (limited) options.
Not sure if OP can get engines as cheap as we can in UK.
I briefly had a 2.5 with 3l G cams and Superchips chip, and it was hugely disappointing. And clearly fragile ;D
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In the UK, I wouldn't bother pissing around with doing anything on a 2.6 nowadays. Throw in a 3.2. And then consider further (limited) options.
Not sure if OP can get engines as cheap as we can in UK.
I briefly had a 2.5 with 3l G cams and Superchips chip, and it was hugely disappointing. And clearly fragile ;D
Did that with mine,same as you,dissapointing :-\
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In the UK, I wouldn't bother pissing around with doing anything on a 2.6 nowadays. Throw in a 3.2. And then consider further (limited) options.
Not sure if OP can get engines as cheap as we can in UK.
I briefly had a 2.5 with 3l G cams and Superchips chip, and it was hugely disappointing. And clearly fragile ;D
Euroland arguably get a better choice of engine as far more GM brands are/were available than we got ;)
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Someone could make me a remap for my 2.6 with the 3.0 map?
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You could retro fit 3.0 ecu, loom, sensors and throttle cable/pedal from a 3.0...
Or fit a 3.2 ::)
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You could retro fit 3.0 ecu, loom, sensors and throttle cable/pedal from a 3.0...
Or fit a 3.2 ::)
But 3.2 is low compression ratio too and 3.0 is 10,8:1, its run fine?
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
Are your current problems on lpg or petrol?
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
Are your current problems on lpg or petrol?
I would say that with both but it appears before with lpg, I will do more kms with petrol to confirm it
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In the UK, I wouldn't bother pissing around with doing anything on a 2.6 nowadays. Throw in a 3.2. And then consider further (limited) options.
Not sure if OP can get engines as cheap as we can in UK.
I briefly had a 2.5 with 3l G cams and Superchips chip, and it was hugely disappointing. And clearly fragile ;D
Euroland arguably get a better choice of engine as far more GM brands are/were available than we got ;)
But nothing remotely useful beyond the 3.0l V6 (the best Omega engine by some margin)
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
As is any 1990s ECU.
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
Are your current problems on lpg or petrol?
I would say that with both but it appears before with lpg, I will do more kms with petrol to confirm it
Fault needs eliminating on petrol. The LPG will bugger up the trims, then you're fighting a moving target.
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
Are your current problems on lpg or petrol?
I would say that with both but it appears before with lpg, I will do more kms with petrol to confirm it
Fault needs eliminating on petrol. The LPG will bugger up the trims, then you're fighting a moving target.
Do you think that going with 3.0 engine and 2.6 electronic favors the failure to appear?
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The 2.6/3.2 are self learning ecus, so there's not much to do with them.
Are your current problems on lpg or petrol?
I would say that with both but it appears before with lpg, I will do more kms with petrol to confirm it
Fault needs eliminating on petrol. The LPG will bugger up the trims, then you're fighting a moving target.
Do you think that going with 3.0 engine and 2.6 electronic favors the failure to appear?
Doubt it
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The v6 is a great lump, and makes very satisfying progress, but (unless you go to huge extremes) it will “never” be a Performance car.
In my view the 3.0 cam upgrade to a leaser engine is not worthwhile and I’m sure there is an element of snake oil effect.
So much is about maintenance too. My 200+ k mile 2.6 saloon, hands down beats my 3.2 on the ‘box and drivetrain to Name a couple ;y
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Someone could make me a remap for my 2.6 with the 3.0 map?
Why, theres no point and too little gains to be had.
The way to go is 3.0 Engine all day long, Ive played around with getting the most out of these lumps for a long time now, the 3.0 has far the best Power vs Fuel Ecomomy of all the V6's, Re Chipping it will give better MPG when driven normally in the right and lower Torque Range but wont do much on its own for increased performance.
The very best you can get from these 3.0 is to Re Chip them (preferably with the Courtenay ReMap Chip over the SuperChips one) fit Widened Throttle Bodies gas flow then and Port to the Penlium intake, Gas flow and Port the Inlet Manifold the Heads, if the Heads are coming off Port the Inlet on the Heads to the Valves, do the same to the Exhaust side of the Heads, Change the Down Pipes (Exhaust Manifold), fit K&N Air Filter or similar (without the Oil) and retain the Cold Feed setup, Fit a less restrictive SS Exhaust System, doesn't need to be too loud either, a nice deep thumping over the over the Boy Racer Rasp sounds ok on the V6's. And thats pretty much it for standard Aspiration.
If you really get bored fit 4 x G Cams with the above, gives a very slight more aggression at the top end of the Revs.
In the UK, If your running LPG you could loose the Cats (Present the Car on LPG to the MOT Tester and good luck with that one) but it really does sound horrible far too noisy.
Last but not least an LSD will help delivering the power to the tarmac, if your that way inclined, and If your running Manual Box you could swap out your 3.7 for a 3.9 Diff from an Auto box setup for tad more acceleration benefit but your lose out on MPG, and trust me the extra Rev's will drive you round the bend when cruising at speed on the Motorway.
You could potentially do most of the above with the 3.2, but its never going to be as Economical and you really are in the hands of the Gods when comes to the ReMapping.
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Someone could make me a remap for my 2.6 with the 3.0 map?
Why, theres no point and too little gains to be had.
The way to go is 3.0 Engine all day long, Ive played around with getting the most out of these lumps for a long time now, the 3.0 has far the best Power vs Fuel Ecomomy of all the V6's, Re Chipping it will give better MPG when driven normally in the right and lower Torque Range but wont do much on its own for increased performance.
The very best you can get from these 3.0 is to Re Chip them (preferably with the Courtenay ReMap Chip over the SuperChips one) fit Widened Throttle Bodies gas flow then and Port to the Penlium intake, Gas flow and Port the Inlet Manifold the Heads, if the Heads are coming off Port the Inlet on the Heads to the Valves, do the same to the Exhaust side of the Heads, Change the Down Pipes (Exhaust Manifold), fit K&N Air Filter or similar (without the Oil) and retain the Cold Feed setup, Fit a less restrictive SS Exhaust System, doesn't need to be too loud either, a nice deep thumping over the over the Boy Racer Rasp sounds ok on the V6's. And thats pretty much it for standard Aspiration.
If you really get bored fit 4 x G Cams with the above, gives a very slight more aggression at the top end of the Revs.
In the UK, If your running LPG you could loose the Cats (Present the Car on LPG to the MOT Tester and good luck with that one) but it really does sound horrible far too noisy.
Last but not least an LSD will help delivering the power to the tarmac, if your that way inclined, and If your running Manual Box you could swap out your 3.7 for a 3.9 Diff from an Auto box setup for tad more acceleration benefit but your lose out on MPG, and trust me the extra Rev's will drive you round the bend when cruising at speed on the Motorway.
You could potentially do most of the above with the 3.2, but its never going to be as Economical and you really are in the hands of the Gods when comes to the ReMapping.
Hi
I don't look the maximum power, simply adapt the map for the 2.6 ecu because I'm having problems with the lambda and fuel trims and I want to eliminate possible problems by not wearing the right thing. However, it's possible use ReChipped map to 3.0 for my 2.6? Increase Fuel economy looks fine. I'm in spain and use lpg
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Codes and live data for running issues :y
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Well, after road a time, it has come back out fuel trim p0173. Measuring voltage of the probes the bank of the failure marks 0,44v stable. This is due to failure of the probe or the ecu is in protection mode and leaves that fixed value? I say it because maybe the probe was fine and the fault came from somewhere else, right?