Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Entwood on 29 October 2018, 14:03:40
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Are the oil sumps the same on all V6 models ??? I've found this one on the bay of fleas but want to ensure it fits the 3.2 V6 :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-V6-MODELS-ENGINE-SUMP-IN-GOOD-USED-CONDITION/332832510348?hash=item4d7e5d118c:g:SaAAAOSw-btaoq31
Nige
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According to the parts lists, on all V6 models of the Omega B (2.5,2.6,3.0 and 3.2), the lower sump pan is the same part no.
Currently 91584216, but that has previously replaced 90410838, 90501404, 90529968 and 90572705.
But in answer to your question - yes.
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Good price! :y
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Thanks to all .. purchased this :)
Having crawled under the car this afternoon and examined the corroded area I have a strong worry about it actually becoming a full leak and dumping all the oil out at once ... that wouldn't do the engine much good at all ...... especially if on the motorway with the tin tent on the back which is due to happen on 9th November .. so going for this to change it ASAP.
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Thanks to all .. purchased this :)
Having crawled under the car this afternoon and examined the corroded area I have a strong worry about it actually becoming a full leak and dumping all the oil out at once ... that wouldn't do the engine much good at all ...... especially if on the motorway with the tin tent on the back which is due to happen on 9th November .. so going for this to change it ASAP.
Easy job to do Nige. IIRC it's the grey goo that's used to seal/glue it to the main ally sump.
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Thanks to all .. purchased this :)
Having crawled under the car this afternoon and examined the corroded area I have a strong worry about it actually becoming a full leak and dumping all the oil out at once ... that wouldn't do the engine much good at all ...... especially if on the motorway with the tin tent on the back which is due to happen on 9th November .. so going for this to change it ASAP.
Easy job to do Nige. IIRC it's the grey goo that's used to seal/glue it to the main ally sump.
Thanks for that ... what is the "correct" name for "grey goo" !! :) I wonder what skurrays (or whoever they are now) will say if I ask for a tube of "grey goo" !!!
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Thanks to all .. purchased this :)
Having crawled under the car this afternoon and examined the corroded area I have a strong worry about it actually becoming a full leak and dumping all the oil out at once ... that wouldn't do the engine much good at all ...... especially if on the motorway with the tin tent on the back which is due to happen on 9th November .. so going for this to change it ASAP.
Easy job to do Nige. IIRC it's the grey goo that's used to seal/glue it to the main ally sump.
Thanks for that ... what is the "correct" name for "grey goo" !! :) I wonder what skurrays (or whoever they are now) will say if I ask for a tube of "grey goo" !!!
I'm sure the kid on the other side of the parts desk will know exactly what you mean ... ;D
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Yes I used the Grey Goo when I changed mine, but only because I had loads left from changing the oil cooler plate.
Hylomar Blue or similar will do the job just as well and will be a lot cheaper from your closest car accessory shop. :y
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Thanks to all .. purchased this :)
Having crawled under the car this afternoon and examined the corroded area I have a strong worry about it actually becoming a full leak and dumping all the oil out at once ... that wouldn't do the engine much good at all ...... especially if on the motorway with the tin tent on the back which is due to happen on 9th November .. so going for this to change it ASAP.
Easy job to do Nige. IIRC it's the grey goo that's used to seal/glue it to the main ally sump.
Thanks for that ... what is the "correct" name for "grey goo" !! :) I wonder what skurrays (or whoever they are now) will say if I ask for a tube of "grey goo" !!!
I'm sure the kid on the other side of the parts desk will know exactly what you mean ... ;D
If he's a kid he won't even know what an Omega is ::)
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-pan-gasket-12378521 :y
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Your local Loctite/Wurth/Kent/whatever stockist will sell you their equivalent.
I've never had any problem with using clear silicone in similar places, but I could hear the multiple sharp intake of breath as I typed this ;D
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A good opportunity to clean out the oil strainer while your there. :y
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Your local Loctite/Wurth/Kent/whatever stockist will sell you their equivalent.
I've never had any problem with using clear silicone in similar places, but I could hear the multiple sharp intake of breath as I typed this ;D
;D ;D
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-pan-gasket-12378521 :y
How much do they charge for shipping? and then there's duty if you're unlucky. ::) :P ;D
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-pan-gasket-12378521 :y
How much do they charge for shipping? and then there's duty if you're unlucky. ::) :P ;D
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-GM-Fluid-12378521-RTV-Engine-Sealant-5-3-oz-Cartridge-/113335163987 :P
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-pan-gasket-12378521 :y
How much do they charge for shipping? and then there's duty if you're unlucky. ::) :P ;D
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-GM-Fluid-12378521-RTV-Engine-Sealant-5-3-oz-Cartridge-/113335163987 :P
That's still expensive compared to Nick's tube of clear silicone from his local Pound shop! :)
I wonder how much he pays? :-\ ;D
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I’ve seen a few chemical metal repairs on oil pans. Seems to work absolutely fine.
*note this is not my recommendation, just saying 👍
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I’ve seen a few chemical metal repairs on oil pans. Seems to work absolutely fine.
*note this is not my recommendation, just saying 👍
I still need to fix the oil pan on my Elite but simply don't have the time to do it (otherwise I would have whipped it off, ground out the rust and welded it up months ago)
My assumption is that any adhesive 'repair' (bodge) will have a hard time sticking to the oily surface of the oil pan :-\ if there is some magic formulation that disperses the oil to bond to the metal beneath then I would be interested to know about it.
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I’ve seen a few chemical metal repairs on oil pans. Seems to work absolutely fine.
*note this is not my recommendation, just saying 👍
I still need to fix the oil pan on my Elite but simply don't have the time to do it (otherwise I would have whipped it off, ground out the rust and welded it up months ago)
My assumption is that any adhesive 'repair' (bodge) will have a hard time sticking to the oily surface of the oil pan :-\ if there is some magic formulation that disperses the oil to bond to the metal beneath then I would be interested to know about it.
I've no idea now how much the lower sump pan is, but when I last bought one years ago, it was £30 odd. Hardly worth the effort of repairing one ... just replace it. :y
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I probably need to get the sump of my crate judging by the way it rattles on startup. as the pickup must be damn near blocked or the oil pump is on its last legs. bloody heap of junk..
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As said I’ve seen it and I’ve seen them not leak. Not saying I’d do that.
Plus note some oil pans are not easy to remove. Would I do that if my oil pan was a ten year job. Possibly. That’s all I’m saying 👍
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I’ve seen a few chemical metal repairs on oil pans. Seems to work absolutely fine.
*note this is not my recommendation, just saying 👍
My tractor sump had chemical metal to rebuild the sump plug area (which was also helicoiled by that DTM chap), due to BMW specifying monkey metal...
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-pan-gasket-12378521 :y
How much do they charge for shipping? and then there's duty if you're unlucky. ::) :P ;D
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-GM-Fluid-12378521-RTV-Engine-Sealant-5-3-oz-Cartridge-/113335163987 :P
Sorry to complain, Doc, but this man has returned my money, presumably because he has no stock. Do you know any other suppliers?
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Local dealer...
That said Nick W is, as ever, spot on :y
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Or you could do something as simple as walk into your local Halfords and buy a tube of Loctite 5980 for £7. Any motor factor will have that or an equivalent that is intended for this job.
As always when using this sort of sealant, the critical thing is to use the correct amount rather than some special potion.
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Thanks. I assume one tube will do the job. Haynes recommends 'a smear' to the cylinder block mating surface and 2.5mm on the sump, rising to 3.5mm around no. 5 bearing cap area (left hand end?). Sound good to you?
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Thought that rang a bell. I have a full tube of Loctite 5990 hanging on the wall, used it on Omegas exhausts for years. Would that do?
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Thought that rang a bell. I have a full tube of Loctite 5990 hanging on the wall, used it on Omegas exhausts for years. Would that do?
Terry,
you know perfectly well that I don't obsess about a what sealant I use on something as simple as a sump: pretty much any sort of snotty sealant out of a tube will work.
Nor have I ever measured the size of the bead that I apply: enough that a small trace oozes out of the joint when the bolts are done up is good enough
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Just asking. I see Halfords do a 131gm tube for £7, sounds good to me. Do you reckon 1 tube will do the job? We have a Halfords in Midsomer Norton, they may stock it, just don't want to run out.
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Isn't 131gms a big tube! My tube of 5990 is a 42 gm tube, which looks a bit tight . I reckon I can manage all right with a 131 gm. tube.
Thanks for advice.
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£1.60 delivered clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grey-Gasket-Maker-RTV-Silicon-High-Temp-Sealer-Instant-Sealant-Water-Oil-Resists-/253600961427?hash=item3b0bcb9393)
plenty to do a sump :y
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Thanks Dave: I have no immediate need for the goo, but at that price I've ordered a couple of tubes! :y
Ron.
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Thanks to all for advice. Halfords local do not stock Loctite 5980. nor does the local motor factor, so I used my 5990 in the end. Of course the sump seal is above the sump oil level but to maintain sump pressure below atmospheric to satisfy emission regulations the sump seal should be good.
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Wynns gasket maker is very good too :y
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Your local Loctite/Wurth/Kent/whatever stockist will sell you their equivalent.
I've never had any problem with using clear silicone in similar places, but I could hear the multiple sharp intake of breath as I typed this ;D
You do need to be careful with silicon near petro-cem type products as it can dissolve and form 'gorilla snot', hence why its not advised. :y
Blob a bit in some petrol to see what happens
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If that Loctite stuff is good enough for the sump why is it not considered good enough for the oil cooler plate?Is it because there is greater pressure[from the cooling system operating under pressure]there than there is at sump join?