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[TheBoy]

O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1) not present

Was this from a decent reader, or one of those unspoken ones? If latter, don't pay too much attention to text as they are mostly 'dangle berries' (although it does point you in direction of the component giving implausible signals)

Yes it was the code reader that shall not be named.

I really like it actually. Although, as all things are relative, and I if was used to tech 2, no doubt I would think it quite poor, by comparison.

But as I don't have tech 2....?

T'wasn't knocking it, just understand its limitations that often the text given is wrong (but the main codes derived are right).  Oh, and keep away from programming


Though to put in some context, I lost my Tech2, but did get back the price I paid minus the insurance co's cut. I thus had a choice, buy another 2nd hand tech2 for a decent wedge of cash, or a cheap laptop reader (and pocket the cash)...   ...what did I do

And you know I have the capability to get that reader working, no matter what the driver issues are...

No brainer, given you had tech 2 in the first place. If I had the cash I would do as you have, obviously. But as I don't, its a more acceptable option than the genetic readers.

Downside is it can't read the Lexus, or other assorted tat that may turn up on your drive that someone asks your opinion on, and that's where the generics come in .  There are advantages/cons to all options, be it dealer level, top end generic, marque specific 3rd party tools or consumer oriented generics.


I would also add, whilst talking about diagnostic tools, in the wrong hands, all of them are dangerous for fault finding (that's where OOF comes in ), and tools like yours are dangerous to the cars health if you hit the wrong button. They should all be treated with a level of respect

[TheBoy]

There was an uneven idle issue. And a known air leak. The code returned after clearing 2 or 3 times. It seemed to re appear, in fairly short order, in conjunction with a drop in revs.

Do we know the fault code - scanning (no pun intended) over the thread, I can't see one

[chrisgixer]

O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1) not present

Was this from a decent reader, or one of those unspoken ones? If latter, don't pay too much attention to text as they are mostly 'dangle berries' (although it does point you in direction of the component giving implausible signals)

Yes it was the code reader that shall not be named.

I really like it actually. Although, as all things are relative, and I if was used to tech 2, no doubt I would think it quite poor, by comparison.

But as I don't have tech 2....?

T'wasn't knocking it, just understand its limitations that often the text given is wrong (but the main codes derived are right).  Oh, and keep away from programming


Though to put in some context, I lost my Tech2, but did get back the price I paid minus the insurance co's cut. I thus had a choice, buy another 2nd hand tech2 for a decent wedge of cash, or a cheap laptop reader (and pocket the cash)...   ...what did I do

And you know I have the capability to get that reader working, no matter what the driver issues are...

No brainer, given you had tech 2 in the first place. If I had the cash I would do as you have, obviously. But as I don't, its a more acceptable option than the genetic readers.

Downside is it can't read the Lexus, or other assorted tat that may turn up on your drive that someone asks your opinion on, and that's where the generics come in .  There are advantages/cons to all options, be it dealer level, top end generic, marque specific 3rd party tools or consumer oriented generics.


I would also add, whilst talking about diagnostic tools, in the wrong hands, all of them are dangerous for fault finding (that's where OOF comes in ), and tools like yours are dangerous to the cars health if you hit the wrong button. They should all be treated with a level of respect

Re last paragraph. That's precisely why I asked Al to start a thread on the findings, before doing ANYTHING. So you tech 2 owners can designer the info.

[chrisgixer]

There was an uneven idle issue. And a known air leak. The code returned after clearing 2 or 3 times. It seemed to re appear, in fairly short order, in conjunction with a drop in revs.

Do we know the fault code - scanning (no pun intended) over the thread, I can't see one

0130

[chrisgixer]

O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1) not present

Can you confirm the code Al?

[05omegav6]

Indeed P0130

[TheBoy]

Nothing relating to a P0140 seen at any point (the other bank)?

Frequency of *both* BxS1 flicking between rich/lean about the same, and about once a second or faster? At both idle when the car is just warmed, and immediately after a suitable ragging (trying to determine if the sensor goes lazy when not hot).

Did you check the trims before clearing the codes? (Note, clearing codes resets trims on that ECU, handy if your code reader does not offer the specific option, **BUT** you must remember to check trims first!). If not, use the car for a day or so, driving as you would normally, and recheck Long Term Trims for both banks - both should be 0%, or very close.


Assuming trims are in tact, I would be suspecting to see one sensor looking a bit lazy when sensor is cooler, given the code and the symptoms. It could potentially be a wiring problem, most easily checked (if you can get the tinkers out) by swapping the 2 front sensors over with each other - remember, the sensors get contaminated by disassembly fluids!

Jury still out on if pattern V6 O2 sensors are any good 

[chrisgixer]

Trims where 1 and 5. No minus symbol so presume plus 1 and plus 5. Didn't see much issue there given the air leak. Although I dint immediately recall which bank was which.

Activity seemed lazy at first, but then the other bank followed a second or two later, in that switching seemed to take almost two seconds, then increased to one second, and so on. The figures seemed to be very similar in scale. Apart from timing of the switching, I could see no difference between the two banks, and there no reason at all why the two banks figures should be in unison. So I suggested a wiring issue. ...unless B1S1 is fractionally more tired than tother and tipping the threshold.

Car was warm immediately after Als arrival.

Iirc air leak was on bank 2

Codes then cleared. Huge stumble on clearing. Almost stalled. Slightly more even tick over then a slight variation in revs returned.

Within 5 seconds the code returned on clicking refresh. Cleared. Refresh. Returned. Always listed as not present.

[chrisgixer]

Given internal heaters, as I understand sensor internals. Does sensor circuit relate to the circuit in the sensor. Or the sensor circuit wiring? I presume it can't tell the difference, unless it monitoring range of performance, which would have a different description. Not forgetting the poor descriptions of course.

[TheBoy]

Given internal heaters, as I understand sensor internals. Does sensor circuit relate to the circuit in the sensor. Or the sensor circuit wiring? I presume it can't tell the difference, unless it monitoring range of performance, which would have a different description. Not forgetting the poor descriptions of course.

Not being able to believe the text is handicapping us here, hence my post earlier. The ECU should be able to detect when the heaters are electrically open circuit, and specifically report that. And lazy sensors. Etc.

Presumably, the air leak is fixed, as that will bugger everything up - we can't do anything until that's resolved. If the car virtually stalled when clearing codes (and thus trims), that may indicate that there may be mixture issues still in play - resetting trims sets it back to what GM decided should be the midpoint of "normal", so can lead to a few seconds of not-so-smooth running, but shouldn't be on the verge of stalling. All that said, we're in slightly unknown territory, as the car, assuming ex-plod, ex-taxi estate has done a gazillion miles, so the GM defaults may not be tolerant enough.

If the code immediately comes back, then if swapping sensors side to side is an option, that can be a good guide on whether a replacement sensor could cure the issue.

[chrisgixer]

Re pattern sensors, the one I got for Tunnie was genuine bosch. So the same. Ie not pattern.

Are there other instances to consider?

[05omegav6]

Have had a previous sensor issue, replacement was good second hand courtesy of Robseymv6. Pressume that it was a genuine one... was at least 18months ago as the current loom has been on over a year also can't remember which sensor it was, although bank 2 sensor one rings a bell

Light came on following/towards the end of a steady cruise back from Oxford...

When the car was suffering it's persistent misfire episodes, it used to be fine when ragged, but only becoming apparent when trying to drive sedately... ie re set the ecu, drive like you stole it = no eml, rolling along the road doing 30 in top = eml. Also once lit, the eml would stay lit, whereas cat codes come and go

Eml had previously been off for months.