Topic: Cam sensor (Read 4723 times)

phipps877 · « **on:** 25 April 2017, 23:09:08 »

I wonder if any of you guys can help me. About a week ago my 2.6 cut out and was found to have a faulty crankshaft sensor (which was replaced 8 months ago with a non genuine one) and I had a Vauxhall one fitted. Today she cut out again and my mechanic says it is a faulty camshaft sensor. My brother brings a second hand one that he had stashed in his loft, we connect it and car still won't start. Same camshaft fault codes coming up, any ideas?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #1 on:** 25 April 2017, 23:39:48 »

Cam sensors very rarely fail on the V6 engines.

Might be worth double checking that it really is a cam sensor code, not the crank sensor again.

If so, it might be worth checking the cam timing is still OK and hasn't slipped.

phipps877 · « **Reply #2 on:** 25 April 2017, 23:48:58 »

Cheers Kevin both mechanic and my brother cleared the codes and it came up with the same code. I will get my mechanic to check if anything has slipped. Car has only done about 11000 miles since cambelts were done nearly 2.5yrs ago.

Stige · « **Reply #3 on:** 26 April 2017, 07:52:44 »

Maybe the sensor wire is too close to the exhaust and got damaged? It does have insulation at the bottom end but not the whole way.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #4 on:** 26 April 2017, 09:45:46 »

Have changed two 3.2 sensors... V6 ones are pretty reliable with their codes. If it says cam sensor, then cam sensor it is

Unlike the random dead gearbox codes that the Desmond throws out

Stige · « **Reply #5 on:** 26 April 2017, 09:52:37 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 26 April 2017, 09:45:46

Have changed two 3.2 sensors... V6 ones are pretty reliable with their codes. If it says cam sensor, then cam sensor it is

Unlike the random dead gearbox codes that the Desmond throws out

But the Cam sensor shouldn't cause it to die I think? It should still run with the light on?

phipps877 · « **Reply #6 on:** 26 April 2017, 11:32:40 »

Started the car just now and disconnected the cam sensor whilst she's running and engine doesn't cut out but engine management light comes on. Plug sensor back in and light goes out after a few seconds. So I don't thick the cam sensor is faulty.

phipps877 · « **Reply #7 on:** 26 April 2017, 11:35:59 »

I disconnected camshaft sensor and it started without it plugged in? So I've must have another fault.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #8 on:** 26 April 2017, 14:32:57 »

Or you unplugged the knock sensor

Stige · « **Reply #9 on:** 26 April 2017, 14:55:34 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 26 April 2017, 14:32:57

Or you unplugged the knock sensor

Cam sensor is on the left side bank on top of the cam in the front right?
And knock sensors are on each side of the block hidden really well almost inaccessible?

phipps877 · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 April 2017, 16:07:53 »

Definitely the cam sensor on the nearside front. Part no. 0 232 103 025.

phipps877 · « **Reply #11 on:** 26 April 2017, 16:21:42 »

https://s24.postimg.org/4ix2olklh/14932198412601752399656.jpg

phipps877 · « **Reply #12 on:** 26 April 2017, 21:54:37 »

Anyone with any ideas what the fault could be even though fault code says cam sensor?

dbug · « **Reply #13 on:** 26 April 2017, 23:45:26 »

Quote from: Stige on 26 April 2017, 09:52:37

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 26 April 2017, 09:45:46
Have changed two 3.2 sensors... V6 ones are pretty reliable with their codes. If it says cam sensor, then cam sensor it is

Unlike the random dead gearbox codes that the Desmond throws out

But the Cam sensor shouldn't cause it to die I think? It should still run with the light on?

When we first got our 2.6 V6 Estate it kept stalling. Went back to main dealer (via seller as under warranty) - codes showed failed cam sensor. Dealer changed crank sensor as failed cam sensor rare - still stalled. Changed cam sensor solved problem - they do stall due to failed cam sensor

Never had stalling in the following 70K miles.

phipps877 · « **Reply #14 on:** 27 April 2017, 10:07:33 »

Started this morning and run for 5secs then cut out, then wouldn't start (engine electronics /immobiliser light on constantly). 10 min later fired light stayed on for 5 sec then went out. Drove her down the road less than 1/2 a mile and left her with the mechanic.

phipps877 · « **Reply #15 on:** 27 April 2017, 20:56:18 »

Update: mechanic says low cam sensor pulse voltage and battery replacement. He said when car won't fire when he puts a booster pack on it the car fires straight away. Further tests tomorrow. Battery cranks forever with me and he's not saying the battery is going flat, just that his Snap-on tester says replace battery.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #16 on:** 28 April 2017, 00:52:58 »

Battery testing best done as per Kevin Woods excellent guide

But replace cam sensor and report back... Failure is rare enough to take a punt on second hand genuine ones

phipps877 · « **Reply #17 on:** 11 May 2017, 10:32:03 »

New genuine cam sensor fitted and battery ok, car sat on the drive for 3hrs then wouldn't start. I'm going to get an auto electrician to look at the car.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #18 on:** 11 May 2017, 10:58:51 »

Follow Kevin Woods starting/charging guide...

Three hours with a door open WILL kill a less than brand new, fully charged battery...

phipps877 · « **Reply #19 on:** 11 May 2017, 11:16:02 »

Just put a brand new Bosch S5 007 74Air battery on the car, still won't start. After the cam sensor connection to the loom, does any know where the next connection is?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #20 on:** 11 May 2017, 11:29:02 »

Does it turn over?

phipps877 · « **Reply #21 on:** 11 May 2017, 11:34:27 »

Yes it turns over. It fired up for 10sec then cut out and wouldn't start again.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #22 on:** 11 May 2017, 12:07:44 »

Check fuse 18 and if ok, do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you turn the key to 2?

phipps877 · « **Reply #23 on:** 11 May 2017, 12:26:14 »

I'll check it now

phipps877 · « **Reply #24 on:** 11 May 2017, 12:35:01 »

Switch the ignition on a few times and I heard a click a few times, 3rd time I heard it run and cranked her and she fired.

phipps877 · « **Reply #25 on:** 11 May 2017, 12:44:01 »

I checked fuse 18 and it is OK. If it is the fuel pump do I have to go for genuine part (delphi) or could I use a pattern part?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #26 on:** 11 May 2017, 12:55:20 »

Quote from: phipps877 on 11 May 2017, 12:44:01

I checked fuse 18 and it is OK. It is the fuel pump do I have to go for genuine part (delphi) or could I use a pattern part?

Pattern is fine, although known good second hand will be plug and play... some pattern will require wiring mods (different connections). Upto you, but easy enough to change either way

Not unusual for pumps to fail, particularly following cranking related faults

omegod · « **Reply #27 on:** 11 May 2017, 13:00:32 »

is it saloon or estate? got a couple of known good pumps here from breakers

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #28 on:** 11 May 2017, 13:02:00 »

Pumps are all the same

phipps877 · « **Reply #29 on:** 11 May 2017, 14:29:00 »

Mechanic is getting one in today at a cost of £85. Have I just paid for a cam sensor for now reason? And why did the code say cam sensor?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #30 on:** 11 May 2017, 15:34:18 »

Because the cam sensor had failed

The two things might be related, but it is almost impossible to prove... Call it a hunch based on my experience over 180K on one Omega... That car saw all the Omega issues twice over

Including two crank sensors, a cam sensor and two fuel pumps.

omegod · « **Reply #31 on:** 11 May 2017, 15:55:28 »

cam.in.head · « **Reply #32 on:** 11 May 2017, 18:02:00 »

Quote from: phipps877 on 11 May 2017, 12:35:01

Switch the ignition on a few times and I heard a click a few times, 3rd time I heard it run and cranked her and she fired.

. if it only ran pump on 3rd attempt is the fuel pump relay at fault ? .one of the purple ones next to battery ?.

phipps877 · « **Reply #33 on:** 12 May 2017, 17:42:42 »

Guess what cam.in.head she cut out again this morning after having a new fuel pump and the auto electrician told me to tap the fuel pump relay under the bonnet. Fired straight away. Put in a second hand one and she's running. I'll find out over the next few days if car is OK. Picked up a new relay from dealers for £27.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #34 on:** 12 May 2017, 19:11:56 »

Is it LPG'd $:-\$

phipps877 · « **Reply #35 on:** 12 May 2017, 19:41:27 »

No it's not lpg

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #36 on:** 12 May 2017, 19:46:54 »

Quote from: phipps877 on 12 May 2017, 19:41:27

No it's not lpg

Only ask because the only Omegas that I have changed that relay on have been.

phipps877 · « **Reply #37 on:** 13 May 2017, 12:09:06 »

Was looking at the old relay and it is 70A, while the GM one is 30A.

News:

Author Topic: Cam sensor (Read 4723 times)