Topic: Smartlead question (Read 5445 times)

CaptainZok · « **on:** 11 October 2006, 21:48:44 »

I've got a Sony CDX MP40 head unit with an autoleads steering wheel control adapter. I was wondering how to get the display up to the MID. Do I need to replace the current adapter or is there an add on I can use? Car is a 98 mini facelift Reflection.

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #1 on:** 11 October 2006, 22:13:32 »

Its a different adaptor...they come up on ebay occasionaly for 20 odd quid

This looks like the right one and porly described so should go for a low price......ask him a question to find out what the autoleads number is for it.

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #2 on:** 11 October 2006, 22:14:26 »

Dow!

Sony to Vaux display and steering wheel adaptor

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #3 on:** 12 October 2006, 09:58:05 »

Thats a Connects2

You need to look at your old radio and see what the top socket is,

3 row or 2 row. Then ask him which plug he has for the top one

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #4 on:** 12 October 2006, 10:14:37 »

He has a 2 row as its a mini facelift.

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #5 on:** 12 October 2006, 13:48:48 »

Quote

He has a 2 row as its a mini facelift.

I thought just a few were 3 row?

CaptainZok · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 October 2006, 18:02:18 »

Old radio was the car400 and I assume the plug is a 2 row (see pics).

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #7 on:** 12 October 2006, 20:17:10 »

DOPS004 is what you need - box is labeled as both but look for the two row plug

CaptainZok · « **Reply #8 on:** 13 October 2006, 00:10:01 »

Thanks, looks like the one on fleabay is a DOPS001 so I assume it won't work.

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #9 on:** 13 October 2006, 15:05:34 »

Quote

Thanks, looks like the one on fleabay is a DOPS001 so I assume it won't work.

The one I found was a 005

You need a 004

002 is an old 004 without ID3 support
001 only drives basic display

CaptainZok · « **Reply #10 on:** 13 October 2006, 15:38:11 »

Thanks Martin, youve made a rather confusing subject extremely clear.

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #11 on:** 13 October 2006, 15:45:02 »

DOPS001 - dropped early on 2 row

DOPS002 - 2 row standard
DOPS003 - 3 row standard
DOPS004 - 2 row current model with better display support (ID3)
DOPS005 - 3 row current model with better display support (ID3)

I got nearly enough from my 2 to get the 4 (sold as a 5)

4 & 5 are same box

Guess who has been on to Connects2 support rather a lot in the past?

CaptainZok · « **Reply #12 on:** 13 October 2006, 16:35:09 »

Quote

Guess who has been on to Connects2 support rather a lot in the past?

And saved the rest of us the job.
Thanks again Martin.

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #13 on:** 13 October 2006, 20:24:59 »

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Connects2-Vauxhall-Opel-Dash-Display-Interface-for_W0QQitemZ120040726016QQihZ002QQcategoryZ10404QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is a 005 as you can see the plugs are different, COnnects2 would charge aboit £10 for a lead to convert to 004

CaptainZok · « **Reply #14 on:** 18 October 2006, 16:54:30 »

Cheers Martin, won that as no other bids. do you have a code for the convertor lead or a contact at connects2 support who could help me?
TIA John

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #15 on:** 18 October 2006, 23:17:51 »

Quote

Cheers Martin, won that as no other bids. do you have a code for the convertor lead or a contact at connects2 support who could help me?
TIA John

go here and ask - tomorrow someone should suggest the lead failing that it can be converted manually

http://www.connects2.com/forum/default.asp?b=8

As you can see someone call Zok has already asked

CaptainZok · « **Reply #16 on:** 26 October 2006, 20:39:16 »

To update, the Connects2 has arrived and has the two row top connector so it looks like its the one I need. I haven't fitted it yet cos I ve spent most of the week holed up with flu but hopefully I'll get it done at the weekend.

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 October 2006, 08:35:59 »

What you will find is there is a lot of wiring to squeeze in.

I push the dash loom connector to connects 2 connector joint to the the left behind the little cubby hole by the radio. I then pop the connects 2 box down behind the ash tray assembly and put the second connector setup next to it.

The radio should then slot in a lot easier.

Martin_1962 · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 October 2006, 13:11:19 »

I ended up chopping the Connects 2 loom into the H/U loom - losing a whole double block of connectors

CaptainZok · « **Reply #19 on:** 28 October 2006, 20:35:35 »

Ok fitted the Connects2 today. It works as its supposed to but the wheel controls are rather basic compared to the autoleads adapter. This prompted me to graft the two together to make the radio behave as I want it to.

The Autoleads adapter

The Connects2 adapter

The Autoleads being a simpler unit only has 3 wires connecting into the car loom
Red (ignition live), Grey (ground) and Black and White (Control signal).

The Connects2 is slightly different seeming to draw its power supply through the unilink connector and therefore only has the single pink control wire.

Firstly cut the 3 wires on the autoleads adapter leaving a bit at the plug in case you want to rejoin at a later date.

Strip the ends of the wires and tin.

Using a sharp knife carefully bare some of the insulation on the Connects2 Pink, Yellow and Black wires coming from the bottom plug.

Solder the Autoleads wires to the Connects2 Red (Autoleads) to Yellow, Grey (Autoleads) to Black, Black and White (Autoleads) to Pink.

Insulate the joins with tape or heat shrink tubing.

To avoid confusion tape the Connects2 remote plug out of the way as we will be using the Autoleads remote.

On test fitting the system wasn't working correctly which I think is due to the effects of the Connects2 being connected to the signal line. So I cut the Pink wire between the join I had made and the Connects2 box. This seemed to fix things and the stalk controls now have the Autoleads enhanced functions but I still have the display provided by the Connects2.

Thats about it now you have the fun of trying to get the whole lot fitted behind the radio. Took me all afternoon to do but eventually it went.

Disclaimer - This mod WILL invalidate the warranty on the Connects2 and the Autoleads adapters so if your Radio/Omega/House blows up, burns out or anything else don't come crying to me or them but if you get the kit second hand off fleabay you ain't gonna have a warranty anyway.

The main reason I did this mod was that a Connects2 can't switch on the radio/CD from the wheel controls but the Autoleads can, which means a bit of insulation tape on the button behind the radio front panel and I can run the radio without the front panel, which is easier when just going to work (saves me carrying it around in the van all day).

Phil · « **Reply #20 on:** 29 October 2006, 19:40:22 »

Quote

The main reason I did this mod was that a Connects2 can't switch on the radio/CD from the wheel controls but the Autoleads can, which means a bit of insulation tape on the button behind the radio front panel and I can run the radio without the front panel, which is easier when just going to work (saves me carrying it around in the van all day).

The reason you had the problem was because you had the wrong connects 2 'silver box'

As they stated in the reply on their website there is a difference in the way they work.

If the origional headunt was ony a single cd or single tape then the circle on the wheel mutes the radio, and the up arrow changes the function( radio to cd and back).

If the head unit is single cd or single tape AND has a boot changer and or telephone or in the case of the facelift has tape and CD (double DIN) then the circle button changes function and the up arrow changes disc.

I know this as i have said before i have two connects 2/ soundlinks boxes, and when i change them it changes the functions.

It would have saved you a shed load of time if youd got the right box in the first place.

And to confirm Connects 2/ Soundlinks/ Autoleads DONOT make an adaptor that works the GID

BEWARNED i had a problem with my battery going flat in my Vectra within 48 hours and could only solve it by disconnecting the radio, when i upgraded my Omega head unit i had the same problem.

After loads of time spent pissing about with it i realised the only thing id swapped between the two cars was the Autoleads wheel control adaptor, turns out this was causing nearly a 2amp drain on the battery, so if you get a battery drain problem i'd lob this bit in the bin!!

Big Rod · « **Reply #21 on:** 23 November 2006, 10:10:18 »

Been reading this with interest as I spent most of yesterday tryig to swap out the stereo in SWMBO's Elite.

Now, the car currently has a Siemens unit fitted, (has phone, CD changer control and an on board tape deck. It also has 'Bose' printed on the tape door if that's any help for ID.)

The reason I want to change it out is that it doesn't seem to work the CD changer as it reports it as 'not present' and the radio frequencies have to be reset every time the car's switched on.

I bought a Kenwood KDC-309 and an Autoleads PC9-706 from Fleabay and figured it would just be a straight plug in. Very wrong was.

First of all, the Autolead sports a two pin wide array of contacts and the car has three pin wide so that obviously just wouldn't fit, so I thuoght I'll forget that and just fit the stereo so that at least she can play CD's. So I plugged the unit in using the standard ISO connectors and it won't play. It powers up fine and tunes into radio stations and even goes through the motions of playing CD's, but there's no sound!! I reckon the unit's ok, 'cos I tried it with a known working Kenwood radio/cassette and that did the same.

So basically, initially I'm looking for tips on getting sound out of the damned thing and advice on the Autolead fiasco.

Phil · « **Reply #22 on:** 24 November 2006, 22:52:56 »

Quote

So basically, initially I'm looking for tips on getting sound out of the damned thing and advice on the Autolead fiasco.

If the screen is the GID like this:-

then no one does an adaptor that works the screen.

As it sounds like the Bose system i'd have a punt that you need to wire the remote amp lead from the head unit into the lead for the Bose amp fitted in the boot so it 'turns on' before you get any sound

Big Rod · « **Reply #23 on:** 25 November 2006, 12:12:33 »

Quote

If the screen is the GID like this:-

Yup, that's the one!!

Quote

then no one does an adaptor that works the screen.

Dammit!!

But will the steering wheel controls work ok though?

Quote

As it sounds like the Bose system i'd have a punt that you need to wire the remote amp lead from the head unit into the lead for the Bose amp fitted in the boot so it 'turns on' before you get any sound

So does that mean I need to channel the pre-outs into the input for the amp, or will it work from the amplified output?

TIA.

Phil · « **Reply #24 on:** 25 November 2006, 16:55:40 »

Quote

But will the steering wheel controls work ok though?

So does that mean I need to channel the pre-outs into the input for the amp, or will it work from the amplified output?

TIA.

Steering controls work but you can use the cheaper adaptor (the one in the first pic of captain zoks post above) and dont need to shell out for the one with the 'silver box'

Think you just need to figure out which wire in the Vxl loom is the reomte wire (turn on for want of a better word) and wire this into the wire in the new HU then you should get amplified sound.

Not sure on Kenwood but on a Sony the remote amp wire is a sep blue wire on the HU loom and it doesnt go into the ISO plug

News:

Author Topic: Smartlead question (Read 5445 times)

Martin_1962

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