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I have been fiddling with my 2.2l 16v with broken clutch. But there was a LOT of other issues. Namely a missfire or hesitation upon throttle. What i have done so far. Replaced clutch (problem solved. Also removed and welded up the cat (holes) ,Cleaning out the rocker cover+gaskets, crankcase breather pipe (totally plugged) cleaned out the carburettor, The hole was plugged to idle controll. Still have the hesitation. Also waterpump, and plugs were renewed, The same problem is still there, but it started to run better today and ran hotter. There was a hole in the purge hose. But noone of my many measures has been able to cure the problem entirely. Before removing the old timing belt, i checked the timing. It was slighty off. I did change everything. Tensioner and idler pulleys. But i have the small timing error again. It is not possible to have it lined up 100% spot on.... Now a thought that no one has discussed (or i have not found a discussion about this) The godamned waterpump can be rotated. On all other cars i have worked on this is fixed and one cannot mount it incorrectly...But on the omega 2,2 16v and probably all 16v engines it can be rotated.. and that would affect the length from crankshaft pulley to the camshaftpulleys. I did mark the wp before replacing and fitted it the same way i got the car. But since i cannot align timing perfectly, would that not be the probable error??? But no one has ever mentioned this. The wp:s moutning will affect timing!!! so if i now loosen the belt again and move it one notch, and loosen the wp rotating it clockwise, i should be able to correct the small error ? The are no error codes now. But there were a few i read with "My Naff Code Reader" and software. It was the camshaft sensor and a lot of other stuff, probably related to prevois owner forgetting to fit all the connectors. But the real issue should be the timing being slitghly off, possible involving the wp not being in the place it should ?. Next question, How sensitive it the timing error? If the top cambelt pulleys are spot on the crancshaft notch is 5mm Counter clockwise from the pointer. But for each thing i did the issues became less and less a problem. Maybe a few hours of burning out shit from all the holes and plugged holes, will have it back on treack. I have replaced all one can replace it fees like. I just want someinput on the slight timing error, from a knowlegeadble person. It cannot be solved only with the tensioner. (worn and new setting).
Is that noise at the end you falling over something?It might be the garage ghost.
Bought this car recently for 3000 SEK which is 250 GBP. What i Know Sofar... The clutch is gone and there is audible noise when in gear. Like stuff rubbing on the flywheel. The timing belt is old and will be swapped. The issue is that the car is vibrating on higher rpm and looses power the more throttle i give it. It sound like one cylinder is not running properly. I realize that this could be a number of issues. i did a readout via chinese v=clone "My Naff Code Reader" and i got a number of error codes wich are probably a result of previous owner foregetting t to plug all the wires when trying to fire the engine. After deleting error one one fault code reappears. i did swap out the ingintion coil module but the problems remain. LIve data suggest that the trottle body works as both pedal and thottle show no sticking, just a linear respons w7o jumping or loosing signal. all sparkplugs look normal. the camsahft sensor which was suspected the culprit does not reappear when i update the errorlog. it runs normal on idle but upon throttle above 30 percent it start to stutter and sound like it runs on 3 cylinders. The reason for my asking is whether to start swapping clucth and cambelt and pretty much every item that are worn out or just get the other diesel omega up and running with less work. could the camshaft sensor be the underlying problem or is it a blown head gasket. All logic says no since plugs look normal. i see no deviation on injector, or coils either. I dont want to spend days i the garage if i have bigger issues whith the motor. here is the error log before deleting it
Total number of fault codes: 7
P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
(04) - Present
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit No Signal
(04) - Not present
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Incorrect Signal
(08) - Not present
P0170 - Rich Exhaust
(01) - Not present
P0136 - O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit
(04) - Not present
P1612 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
(00) - Not present
P1613 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
(00) - Not present
the only error remaining is
P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
(04) - Present
Updates ! since it is warm enough outside this Januari 2020 i decided to yank the gearbox out. The pressure plate was loose due to 2 rivets broken, and the steel tabs holding it, had started to grind agaist the bell housing. This was of course the source of the vibrations, as it would not center at all....Lucklily i cought it in time, and the dual mass flywheel is in good condition. The steel brackets also prevented me from removing the gearbox. so i had to removed the shifter subplate where the ball is seated from the shifter. ineed to wiggle and force it backwards to break the tabs as the hocked in the groves they made i the bell housing. So not as an easy removal as seen before..
general mayhem in progress. i cleaned out the pipe between valve cover and crankcase, which was blocked to 100%. The other 2 where not blocked. There was oil in the air intake, and a little oil from the lower timing oil seal indicating blockage from oil sump. cleaned out the ignition module and replaced the cambelt. Voila the timing problem gone. But could still feel some vibrations... I know the clutch is bad, but i run the car in neutral. thought i would get it hot, to burn out all the shite from the cat. So i revved it and around 5000 rpm, it suddenly started having an ominous clicking noise. Given i had replaced the cambelt, i thought.. That one came loose and destroyed the valves all together, But investigation showed that the timing was spot on. i began handcranking the motor and the noise comes from the flyhweel. I had a glance at the hole where the oilbreather pipe is bolted near the oil sump... here lies metalhavings indicating that something has come loose from flywhwheel or clutch. This makes me to believe that i might not be able to save this self-abuser of car.. I did buy this car cheap, and if i did not get it running, i would simply steal parts and drive, with one of my other Omega b 2.5tdīs. So for now i will tow the 2.2 out of the garage and not engaging in what mayhem i will find, when the gearbox is removed and have my Omega nr2 2.5td automatic fixed instead, to have a car running to get to work.... The one i Drive now is a 2.5td manual which is in very good condition, but need attention as defrost does not, work and costs a helluva lot to have running as a car.
One can have it registered as a truck in sweden reducing road tax to half the cost. The other 2.5td Omega... is registered as a truck already... The least amount of cash spent. The 2.2 also has severe rust on the rockerpanel. But this work will have to wait for a few weeks. I read about another Omega owner who had a major breakdown, flywheel and clutch related. I remember he said i took out a lot of stuff...
well the issue is this: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/275512-m27c256b-eproms-and-minipro-tl866-trouble/ Chinese programmer with old software and propably not working as it should. They don't sell them anymore and there is a new tl866II that has evened out the glitches. 
