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Topics - Shimmy

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Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / WANTED URGENTLY: Need rear light cluster - nearside

« on: 30 July 2013, 23:24:04 »

Hi there,

Just had the rather nasty surprise of finding that someone has clipped my car and not owned up to it!
My nearside rear brake light and indicator housing has been smashed, so I need to sort out a replacement ASAP.
Ideally someone in Hertfordshire or a nearby county so that I can pickup tomorrow maybe? If not, delivery will have to do.

Until I get this replaced, is it legal to drive with the bare bulbs like that? Anything I can do to patch it up?

Also there's a sizeable dent on the rear nearside corner of the bumper too. So if anyone has a rear bumper in nocturnal blue with parking sensors, let me know.
I realise this will take longer to sort, so isn't as much of a concern for me now.

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Curious SMS issue

« on: 29 January 2013, 15:34:01 »

Ahoy there, have any of you chaps come across a full inbox of messages on the NCDC 2015 that you weren't able to delete?

Basically my unit will display your inbox is full, you have 29 messages please delete etc...

But when I enter the Message sub menu the Phone part of the system does a reboot, I lose signal but the stereo is still working. Sometimes I can't even select the Message sub menu as it is greyed out.

Ignoring the command doesn't help either as it pops every few seconds when you 'Return', especially annoying when using the in built sat nav.

Any ideas how I can get these messages deleted or get rid of the command?

General Car Chat / Potential upgrade path?

« on: 26 September 2012, 11:48:26 »

First of all, I'm not looking to change cars just yet. Still very content with my 3.2 Elite.

I'm just struggling to think of anything to replace the Omega when it becomes necessary.

What have previous owners upgraded to, or what are you potentially looking at?

Doesn't have to offer the same comforts of an Omega, although would be nice!

Omega General Help / Which rear shocks/dampers?

« on: 12 February 2012, 11:30:20 »

I have a 3.2 Elite, not really interested in fitting S/L shocks.

My car has lowered springs, definitely shorter than standard and are red - MV6 I guess? I also have a towbar fitted but I don't tow anything, sometimes use a bike rack though.

So I'm thinking MV6 spec rear shocks will be most suitable; but the trade book isn't exactly clear in identifying these.

Done some digging and these are the two most likely I've found.

3.2i 24v V6 - Y32SE Saloon; Except Sports Chassis; Ident WM 72119086

And 9193196/7 which isn't listed in the trade book.

So am I right in thinking MV6 shocks are what I need and if so, what is the correct part number?

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Bose specifications

« on: 02 September 2011, 18:32:34 »

Nothing urgent here, just curious to know the full specifications of the Bose setup in a 3.2 Elite.

I found this picture:

Does anyone else have any more detailed information on the speakers/tweeters and amplifier?

Thanks.

Omega General Help / Won't start when hot

« on: 27 June 2011, 14:34:11 »

Hi there

Just had the car recovered by the RAC to a garage after spending at least an hour trying to solve/diagnose the problem. We reckon either crank/camshaft sensor or fuel pump relay or related to that. Tried both my bluetooth code reader and the RAC code reader, NO codes stored. Which is strange.

Problem first started on Saturday 100 miles from home, starting from motorway services the car took 3/4 turns before it started after a pause (hot day). No issues driving home as it was all dual carriageway, water temp was 85c.

Drive today to the post office, turns first key but upon reaching a busy junction the engine cuts out when coasting up to the lights (not a great place!). Car wouldn't start at all, plenty of fuel and the battery is 6 months old and plenty of charge. After a lot of fuss (don't get me started) I get the RAC man to come, it starts after a couple turns and we stop at pubs car park nearby where it cuts out again. As said, no codes to speak of. RAC guy tries bypassing the fuel pump relay and it still won't turn over. So is it likely to be crank sensor, cam shaft sensor or something fuel related? Definitely seems heat related though. Never had any starting issues in the past.

Also to bear in mind, the car came back from the garage on Friday after the aux belt was replaced when getting the air con fixed which needed a new compressor and belt.

Cheers.

Omega General Help / Diagnosing an Air Con Leak

« on: 16 May 2011, 17:16:54 »

I have no refrigerant in the car and have a leak atm. What are people's experience of most likely bits to fail and need repair/replacement? Approximate costs for these bits would be helpful too!

Is it possible to diagnose the leak myself, if so how? A dye and a UV light?

I'm more than happy to take it to my local indy to sort it out, but that won't happen for a couple of weeks, plus it'd be nice if I had a source for parts readily lined up.

Cheers.

P.S. Thanks RobG for the radiator recommendation.

Omega General Help / Help me diagnose water/coolant leak please.

« on: 19 April 2011, 14:54:25 »

Hi there,

last night when I went to play football (10 miles away) during the last mile the coolant warning light came on and the temperature had jumped to 110c. I decided to coast to the football car park as I was nearly there, didn't misfire. As I parked up I checked the coolant tank and it was empty, looked under the car and there was a quite a large steady stream of water running from what looks like O/S bottom of the radiator. I decided to leave the engine to cool and reinspect after I played football.

90 minutes later armed with several bottles of water I start filling the coolant tank until it reaches the level, I run the engine for a few minutes, no leaking. I decide to refill my bottles and drive the 10 minutes home carefully with a friend following and my eyes fixed to the temp gauge. The temperature stays at normal 80-90c operating temperature and I make it home to find no water has leaked at all?

Reinspected this morning and found the coolant tank very nearly empty and there is now a steady drip from the same spot, bottom of radiator area driver's side. I checked the HBV and it all seemed dry, no mayo in the oil cap.

Before last night the car has very rarely needed much coolant topping up, owned since last summer and needed about 500ml topping up in total.

Any ideas chaps?

Omega General Help / Closest member to replace camcover gaskets?

« on: 15 October 2010, 16:11:47 »

Ahoy there.

Is there anyone within 100 miles of my location that could fix my oil leak? I'm fairly certain it's the camcover gaskets, as I can get oil on my fingers by touching the drivers side front from the outside. I can also see the oil collecting on the drivers side above the sump. The passengers side probably isn't leaking, but I'm guessing it would be prudent to replace those at the same time?

I've had a look at the maintenance guide and tbh I wouldn't be confident doing it myself with no previous experience.

I'm willing to travel and obviously will pay for parts and labour, also flexible time wise. If there's no one available to help me out, what should I expect price wise from an independent garage?

Thanks

Omega General Help / Problem solving help required.

« on: 16 September 2010, 01:08:18 »

Hi there everyone.

I'm the 'new' owner of a 3.2 omega as of 3 weeks now, and until very recently has served me very well. The car came with a good history (recent service/timing belt kit change/exhaust), and upon inspection was very clean. It in fact still runs perfectly well at the moment.

However a few days ago when I lined up to overtake a lorry going up an incline on an NSL road, I pressed the sport button and accelerated sharply to overtake. As soon as this happened the EML came on and I was limited to 2k revs and it sounded like a couple of cylinders were misfiring. When I could, I pulled over and switched off the engine and looked under the bonnet. Everything looked perfectly fine, so I started it up and it ran fine once again with no EML. But the dash light with the spanner through the car now became illuminated. It has remained in this state for the last few days, running seemingly perfectly normal whilst putting on a few hundred miles including two 5 hour round trips on very mixed roads.

I've since reacquainted myself with the service history of the past owner, and found that the timing belt kit change and service had been done at the end of last year at an independent. Around the same time Kwik Fit (:/) had also replaced the exhaust. And more recently the last owner had taken the car to the Vauxhall main dealer to get rid of this warning light (spanner through the car) to the tune of £450, replacing the lambda sensor and another sensor which I have the part number of.

Having read through some of the guides and had a search on this site I managed to utilise the pedal trick to get some fault codes:
0130 & 0150 - Both lambda sensors
0170 & 0173 - Both banks, fuel trim malfunction. MAF?
0300 - misfire detected
0304 & 0306 - cylinder 4 & 6 misfire detected
1110 - Intake manifold valve

Seems like the vauxhall monkeys didn't do a good job of finding the fault, as both lambda sensors give errors now. And as both banks of the fuel trim are malfunctioning it leads me to believe something that runs before these components is at fault. Your ideas?
The engine actually sounds and seems to run fine with no dip in performance since that attempted overtake in sport mode, although I haven't tried it in sport mode since! So will the fault code be produced because of that isolated incident, or is still misfiring now?
The only thing I can think of is that the MAF perhaps needs replacing? Also the fairly recent change of the the exhaust back box could lead to the lambda sensor trouble, does that mean a new back box is needed? Or can the MAF be at fault for that too?

As I say the car seems to run perfectly fine since that isolated incident and had covered over 500 miles in about 5 days without complaint. I also started to use premium unleaded as my dad had a similar issue with his 7 series, his engine would go into limp home mode sometimes under sharp acceleration until he changed to premium unleaded. This is why I have been running it since.

If anyone has any ideas what could be at fault I'd be very happy!

I personally think it's the MAF at the moment which is causing these fault codes, but if there are other things I should be looking at please let me know.

Kind Regards.

Newbie Welcome Area / Hola!

« on: 04 September 2010, 20:37:40 »

I'm new around here and have recently got myself a Vauxhall Omega 3.2 Elite.

Last had a mondeo mk2 2.0 zetec which I got off ebay for £500 to get me to the end of uni, which it did a fine job of. Until recently that is when the immobiliser started to play up, causing the battery to drain quickly and making the engine not switch off. After a few jump starts and replacement of fuses it seemed back to normal, but I decided it was time to get rid and upgrade.

Few days later I found this big barge with 74,000 miles on it. Looked like a clean example, all of the toys work bar the rear blind which I'm not fussed about. The last owner even had extra carpeting (insulation) installed over the original floor mats. Test drive was good, nothing knackered, the automatic gearbox perhaps isn't as smooth has my dads E38 7 series though. Ohh and obviously the 7 series feels more up market inside and handles that bit better.

I've not bothered to clean the car since buying it 10 days ago, but here are some quick snaps:

Excuse the sports bottle, had just been playing 7 a side.

Got the car for £980 on top of my old mondeo as trade in.

After 10 days of owning the car I'm really quite satisfied, no nasty surprises (yet

). The car has leccy everything, seemingly more than my dad's 7 series. It is quite thirsty, but that's fine by me for now.

Feel free to pass judgement or ask any questions, I certainly will!

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / WANTED: cheap 16" wheels preferably CD spec

« on: 02 September 2011, 18:39:17 »

Hi there, making this thread again as the last seller messed me around and it's only been resolved now 2 months later.

I'd like a set of 16" wheels, cheaper the better really but I'd prefer the CD spec ones. Not interested in any tyres as my winter tyres will be fitted to these.

I'm willing to travel a max of 100 miles to collect, beyond that delivery please.

Thanks.

Could a passing mod could move this to the sales section please!