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[Diamond Black Geezer]

Thanks 

Well i seem to think it idled ok, like I say it was over a year ago, and it was a quick fire up after doing the gaskets, nothing more just a 'check we've got the pipes all back in', kind of thing Though when I fired it up for the first time in a year, the other week, there was a strong smell of petrol - Caused by a fuel union not being tight enough. So clearly the previous engine start it wasn't run for any more than a few seconds, otherwise it would have stunk to high heaven like she did the other day... if we follow?

Suspecting crank sensor more and more - in that this was the original cause of being laid up 7 years ago. The replacement was fitted when she was still owned by father, however (slightly incredibly) wasn't actually started up. He fitted it, but never checked to see if she's start. Maybe because he didn't want this 'impossible to fix car' to be down to a mere £15 wire from the scrappy, he'd since bought the Turbo Weasel, so perhaps lost interest, I don't know. Eh, 'tis all in the past now  ~

The next time she was turned over was I think before we did the DIS pack. So about a year-18month ago. This was to check for leaking oil from the gaskets, after a good wipe around. What I'm 'theorising' is that if the crank sensor is either 'dickey' or just the wrong Bosch one, after a few starts she's had in the past year-or-so, the rough idle problem could be starting to assert itself. Alternatively, the CS from the scrappy could be faulty itself - the reason it was in the scrap yard in the first place??

Anyway, the list, in terms of likeliness is as follows...

1) Vac pipes - Symptoms suggest strongly this. Though they seem ok, have a friend bringing a set tonight, so a simple swap over will confirm/end this theory. Also seem to think the brake pedal felt a little hard...might be my imagination... hmm...
2) Crank sensor - Hear lots of rough running issues caused my these. Will check tonight if the correct Siemens or incorrect Bosch is fitted. Again, easy diagnosis if wrong.
3) Breather pipes - Have re-routed them as per excellent Marks DTM diagram diagram, which didn't alter anything. So either still have them wrong, or it's not this. Hence lower down in probability.
4) DIS pack - low probability as purely down to cost/pain of a job to do, really! Rather it wasn't this! Looks dry, looks like always been dry, but very open to the possibility.
5) HT leads - they are well, well n need of a change, splits, taped up splits, signs of crumbling/nibbled rubber etc.. Caused by being fried in engine oil before the gaskets and last DIS pack went pop 
6) No oil in tappets. Not mentioned on here, buy suggested my chap coming over tonight. He has known this to cause bad idle, as the engine oil's had lots of time to drain away.
7) Stale Petrol - Though I will be changing, the fact she starts immediately, just like always, suggests it's not a problem in this area.

Phew! Speak soon! 

[Temetsy]

I still suspect that DIS pack is faulty.. Really not too bad of a job to do, took about hour and a half when i swapped my old pack

[Webby the Bear]

Car ran ok.

You did cam covers and started it.

Runs like a bag of sh*t.

HT leads wrong way round imo.

[Marks DTM Calib]

6) No oil in tappets. Not mentioned on here, buy suggested my chap coming over tonight. He has known this to cause bad idle, as the engine oil's had lots of time to drain away.

Would cause noise but not poor idling as the valves still open a bit which at idle would be 'enough' for it to run ok ish.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Cheers boys, Mr DTM Calib, Mr The Bear and Mr Temetsy.. will try all this evening 

The only snag with the DIS pack is it's even more of a bugger than for every other Omega owner - for the reasons mentioned earlier. I either get another Vectra pack (rather not), or fit an Omega one, but solder on the proper Omega plug back into the loom (more aggro, but feel it's the 'proper' way to do it)

Will get to the nearside bank of plugs tonight and swap the leads round/get to the DIS pack and trace where they're going. My mate's got a set of good, 'known' leads, so we'll be putting them on 

Will also try and get a paperclip test done, just to check anything obvious being thrown up. Thanks again, will report back later on tonight!

[Webby the Bear]

it sounds more like you got a miss on a couple of cylinders thus improving the two leads round wrong theory.

if the coilpack was nackered cos of the switch over of connectors i'd have thought it wouldnt have fired at all.

but im sure dtm will confirm this or not

look forward to seeing results.

and dont forget to look at lizzie zooms easy to read guide for connecting the leads to the dis.   i think its 531 then 264.

completely messing me all up  (i mixed leads up a few times.... as has 4x4 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

To be honest I'd be delighted if it is HT leads - I've had offers of four sets, from three different people so far! 

Really just want to get out of work, get home, get on with doing them!

[Webby the Bear]

Don't keep us in suspense DBG 

[symes]

well you lot----what about spark plugs nobody thought sat for ages when I start old engines ie my consul--thar not run for 7 years-started 1st time-why--new fuel and plugs ps check small vacuum pipes to servos on bagpipes-they can split and cause some fun too

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Right.. the cause...?

Details are here...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126439.30

Air leaking from the EGR where it connects to the MultiRam    So not as such leaking pipes, but of course the identical effect, and the system is losing air, so whoever said leaky pies gets a point.

After an eveing poking at tweaking, the idle's down to about 1000rpm, and hunting slightly up to approx 1100rpm. I'd say this means a slight leak somewhere, still. But VERY happy that she's actually running. I feel I have something to work with now, you know?

So...NEXT... Where can I get suitable quality replacements for the thin, brittle pipes on Omegas?? 

And is there anything else I should be looking at to cure a high idle?

[terry paget]

Can you not isolate the leaky vacuum hose by elimination? The vacuum comes from the inlet manifold passenger side to the brake servo, then tees off the servo line to narrow black pipes to dual rams, vacuum switches for HBV, EGR etc,  climate control panel, and others for all I know. If you remove pipes from connectors below servo pipe one by one and put your finger over the hole you should soon find which one is leaky.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Hi, Terry

That's my next job, for sure. There's a fair few 'professional bodges' on the pipework which could be suspect. Pulling the thicker pipe direct to the servo off after the engine had run a while made a hiss, so clearly pressure isn't being lost before the non-return valve. Will double-check I've got the pipes routed correctly, then start hunting out leaks.

Slight air leak now definitely the way to go. There's potential for there to be a leak under the multiram plenum (as this was removed for doing the gaskets) - as there could be a pipe partially blocked or maybe even the multirams aren't seated properly.

Wednesday is my next night for working on her, so until then, any further tips for identifying a leak, and a source for replacing the pipes (which are somewhat past their best  ) feel free to comment 

[Webby the Bear]

Forgive me guys, but there are no vacuum lines for the multiram that connect to the EGR? Or do you mean the vac line NEAR the EGR?

Sorry if ive got confused DBG

Ps, glad you got it running ok. 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

No, you're spot on, no actual lines Mutiram-to-EGR.

My specific issue was that the EGR itself that connects via three studs to the side of the Multiram plenum wasn't seated correctly. So drawing in air where it isn't supposed to was causing a fast/erratic/nonexistent idle, and that join being now hylomar'd up nicely has improved things dramatically.

Like I say, I'm now from...

-not idling, pressure 'kickback' causing pop (the air intake lid sporadically popping from the pressure!) fast rpm

after gasket on EGR to Multiram, to...

-running sweet, only at 1000rpm, then after getting to about 90^oC, hunting from 1000-1500(!)rpm

After cooling down, then running again, to...

-fast idle (approx 1000rpm) with slight hunting to 1100rpm ish.

Mr The Bear, I'd say running "OK" being the operative word!!  She's not 100%, but maybe 80% 

[Webby the Bear]

Well its a very good start. Well done mate