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[Diamond Black Geezer]

Last entry before I leave for my holiday 

Trying to get the bagpipe/vacuum reservoir at the top right (the one above the pollen filter) Reason being...

Pull out the 'twin' vac pipes at the main servo hose and blow into the vac pipes - this generated a small hiss - traced to the top right bagpipe.

So...

Pull pipe from 'bagpipe' , then block the outlet with your finger = no leak
refit the vac pipe = leak

therefore must be the seal between bagpipe/vac reservoir and the pipe. I've changed the rubber for what looks to be a better one, still no luck. Still hisses.

Farewell, and look forward to your answers when i come back! Thanks

[Diamond Black Geezer]

NEW PROGRESS!

So, now having changed the main vac pipe, and all but two of the thin vac pipes (leading to the small reservoir at the pollen filter) the car idled nicely... slowly dropped to about 900rpm (not great, but still, steady) Then, after about tn mins or so the engine revs built up to about 1200. Once the temp reached an indicated 95^o the engine began hunting again, by 500rpm, from 1300ish to 1800ish.

What could be causing this - that's linked to temperature?!?! Or perhaps something is getting soft/leakinging after a certain temp? Maybe thermostat related? Once again, slightly baffled!

OH, and blanking off each of the thin vac pipes one by one doesn't affect the idle, it's still hunts exactly the same

[05omegav6]

New ICV time

[Diamond Black Geezer]

That was one of the things I changed when it had the rough idle initially... So she's on her second one, sadly! There's the possibility that the second one is duff, too, of course. I'm lucky in that the bits I bought off MissyMV6 included an ICV. I'll fit that tonight, see if that makes a change.

Check here for all the gory details 

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126439.new#new

[05omegav6]

That was one of the things I changed when it had the rough idle initially... So she's on her second one, sadly! There's the possibility that the second one is duff, too, of course. I'm lucky in that the bits I bought off MissyMV6 included an ICV. I'll fit that tonight, see if that makes a change.

Check here for all the gory details 

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126439.new#new

Unless it was a brand new one there's a chance it was already knackered... also depends what you cleaned it with as the seals inside it might now be shot

[henryd]

NEW PROGRESS!

So, now having changed the main vac pipe, and all but two of the thin vac pipes (leading to the small reservoir at the pollen filter) the car idled nicely... slowly dropped to about 900rpm (not great, but still, steady) Then, after about tn mins or so the engine revs built up to about 1200. Once the temp reached an indicated 95^o the engine began hunting again, by 500rpm, from 1300ish to 1800ish.

What could be causing this - that's linked to temperature?!?! Or perhaps something is getting soft/leakinging after a certain temp? Maybe thermostat related? Once again, slightly baffled!

OH, and blanking off each of the thin vac pipes one by one doesn't affect the idle, it's still hunts exactly the same

Although your temp gauge is reading 95 degrees,I wonder what the injection temp sensor is reading which is after all the one that the ecu uses to adjust fueling,might be worth getting some live data and see whats what

[Diamond Black Geezer]

That was one of the things I changed when it had the rough idle initially... So she's on her second one, sadly! There's the possibility that the second one is duff, too, of course. I'm lucky in that the bits I bought off MissyMV6 included an ICV. I'll fit that tonight, see if that makes a change.

Check here for all the gory details 

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126439.new#new

Unless it was a brand new one there's a chance it was already knackered... also depends what you cleaned it with as the seals inside it might now be shot

Taxi Al - Oh.... seal inside...? I did ask the question some time ago on here, inquiring about exactly how you're supposed to correctly clean an ICV. In the end I filled it with carb cleaner, and left it to stand overnight, then drained it, and then gave it a squirt of AC90 for lubrication. So there's a strong possibility that there's seals inside that are done in? Well that's good news, in so far as I've got a known good one from MissyMV6, which I can try tonight.

henryd - Is there any way of getting the live data - remembering this car is not MoTd or taxed. Mobile tech2 person? Or is there another way?

Thanks to both, I can feel this getting there slowwwwly but surely!!! 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Well, as per...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126439.45

After changing the plenum, doing the breather bridge seals, a new throttle body, with a differently adjusted screw (mine was wound in almost all the way, this new one appears untouched since the factory) the old girl is now running slightly lumpy and there's now the EML flashing.

The only things are...
-heard a trickle of water, looked under the car, then realised that the coolant hose that goes to the throttle body had started to trickle some water down the engine. I mopped up all that was visible, and can't see any electrical connectors that could be affected. Will check there's no water that's found its way into the plugwells, but don't think so.
-As the throttle butterflies are now in a different position, could it be that the ECU is now 'learning' where they are? hence the slightly lumpy idle.

So to quote my dear, late granddad - buggered if I know! 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

There is no way of saying this without caps lock...


SHE LIVES AND BREATHES AND HUMS LIKE A SEWING MACHINE OPERATED BY FASTIDIOUS BEES!!!!!


The utter delight that I have been experiencing since half 5 last night, I cannot over emphasise. 
Before I'd got my work suit off I marched through the house, and turned her over, to let her run, to see what the state of play was. Lumpy, but not as lumpy as last night, and as the idle crept down...and down...and down...finally settling at a dead-on indicated 500rpm, the temp rose, up to an indicated 92-3, but never seemed to get much more. And slowly but surely with every minute, the burble and slight judders, the momentary rocking from side to side disappeared, leaving a smooth, vibrationless idle. If I rested my hand on the plenum and I were deaf I wouldn't know the engine was running  Just like she used to be!!!

The sewing-machine smoothness was always my favourite thing about the engine...well, 2nd, after the noise she made over 4000rpm 

Now onto the super-critical...just two questions -

There appears to be a faint hiss, literally like someone blowing gentle through a drinking straw, right on/inside the breather bridge. It's got brand new seals, fitted with care and a thin smear of clean oil.
Question 1 - Is this the noise of the air passing through normally, or should I be looking further into this?

There's a 'squeeksqueeksqueeksqueeksqueeksqueek' coming from the front of the engine. It appears to be coming from inside the cam belt cowling - but I wouldn't put £1 on it, it might just as easily an auxiliary pulley.
Question 2- Is this noise a sign of a cam pulley about to fail?

I think it's safe that we can trace this fault now, to a mis-adjusted throttle body adjuster screw, which neither me nor the old man can imagine how that's happened. It's completely stuffed the idle, the ECUs been frantically trying to correct it, but the butterflies being never allowed to close fully has sent everything 'to cock' as we northern fellows say

as per...


I think a final word of thanks to all who have offered top-notch advice and help. Marks guide, and reference to some dodgy mechanics winding the TB open got me thinking... "hang onnnn, my father's a dodgy mechanic!! Now what if..." 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Have located this thread...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=122189.15

though my symptoms are the same/very close, the above thread refers to a new kit fitted - mine has 17k (might be 27k) and 7 years (of non-running) on it. Having the cambelt done is most definitely on the cards, of course, but up until last night I didn't have a car that would even idle, so any thoughts of cambelts had to go on the back-burner!

[Kevin Wood]

Glad it's sorted.

Question 1 - Is this the noise of the air passing through normally, or should I be looking further into this?

Yes, probably. TADTS.

There's a 'squeeksqueeksqueeksqueeksqueeksqueek' coming from the front of the engine. It appears to be coming from inside the cam belt cowling - but I wouldn't put £1 on it, it might just as easily an auxiliary pulley.
Question 2- Is this noise a sign of a cam pulley about to fail?

Could a bit of coolant have got in it? If so, probably just the belt slipping on the pulleys if it's got a wet patch.

mine has 17k (might be 27k) and 7 years (of non-running) on it. Having the cambelt done is most definitely on the cards, of course, but up until last night I didn't have a car that would even idle, so any thoughts of cambelts had to go on the back-burner!

Yes, I'd get the belt changed if it's sat that long. Not impossible that a bearing in an idler has dried out.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Had to look up what 'TADTS' means

 

I suppose a very easy way of confirming the noise being the auxiliary pulleys is to whip the 'fan' belt off to see if the noise persists. Then split the cam belt cover, if the noise gets louder, well, there's my answer 

Looks like I'll now be scouring the previous threads regarding cambelts. It was last done by Vauxhall, but I'm going to experiment just how cheap a cambelt/tensioner can be done, whilst still maintaining a quality job. Strikes me there's lots of OOFers buying locking kits, which after being used once, invariably must sit in garages unused for a period of 4 years, and potentially never again. Given the nature of the age, I'm temped to say the belt doesn't need doing, as it's basically always the tensioner that fails, and I know plenty of people are now replacing the belts every other time, doing the tensioner at 40k, but belt at 80k. Same as the water pump - it's hardly done anything, about 17k. So hoping that I can shave a few £ here and there without, as I say, scrimping on the quality of the job. 

[henryd]

Had to look up what 'TADTS' means

 

I suppose a very easy way of confirming the noise being the auxiliary pulleys is to whip the 'fan' belt off to see if the noise persists. Then split the cam belt cover, if the noise gets louder, well, there's my answer 

Looks like I'll now be scouring the previous threads regarding cambelts. It was last done by Vauxhall, but I'm going to experiment just how cheap a cambelt/tensioner can be done, whilst still maintaining a quality job. Strikes me there's lots of OOFers buying locking kits, which after being used once, invariably must sit in garages unused for a period of 4 years, and potentially never again. Given the nature of the age, I'm temped to say the belt doesn't need doing, as it's basically always the tensioner that fails, and I know plenty of people are now replacing the belts every other time, doing the tensioner at 40k, but belt at 80k. Same as the water pump - it's hardly done anything, about 17k. So hoping that I can shave a few £ here and there without, as I say, scrimping on the quality of the job. 

If the timing belt covers are coming off,change all of it with the exception of the water pump on the v6's,if that aint broke leave it Imo

[Kevin Wood]

If the timing belt covers are coming off,change all of it with the exception of the water pump on the v6's,if that aint broke leave it Imo

Agreed. You will find it makes no odds to cost whether you source just the idlers or a kit including the belt and, as said, once you've done all the dismantling, it makes no sense not to replace the belt.  Contitech/SKF/Gates kit for just under the £100 mark and see if you can borrow the locking tools from someone local.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Fair enough, that makes sense.

I have to say I'm a little suprised, well, confused, at the number of tensioners for sale second hand. I'm all for fitting a used, known good part to a car, but in this case surely asecond hand tensioner that are prone to going pop after 40k+, and even if unused after 4 years+ will do the same, selling a used tensioner seems like selling second hand oil.