Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 19 June 2019, 12:29:42
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/hoo1rar8btmrxso/OE03ehTURRET.jpg?dl=1
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Unless you're up for major surgery, squirt something on it, cross your fingers, say three Hail Marys and soldier on.
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Picture needs to be visible to assess...
Based on Stemos response, I would say bin it.
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(https://i.ibb.co/vJ5nbPx/26-B9-CC17-B635-43-E3-A715-914-AA657-F181.png) (https://ibb.co/Vvy4dSW)
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Scrap it.
Ta Steve btw :y
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The more i read on OOF the more worried i get for my elites future :o :o
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The more i read on OOF the more worried i get for my elites future :o :o
The thing is, preventative maintenance is just that... it works best before the rot sets in. "Oh darn I just got this advisory what do I do?" simply won't achieve longevity.
The issue with the saloons is that the rubber boot visible in TPs picture moves and rubs off not only the underseal but also the paint, primer and corrosion protection.
You either deal with it before you see it, or you let it get to the state of the picture and drive the car until the rust fall off scrap it.
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Ill check mine the w/e might help cheers DG
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Had worse on one of our Omegas. Girlfriend came Home and complained that the car was making noise and a big thing was moving up and down in the boot. Shure enough the shock had broken through the top of the tower and was now moving freely in the boot. Paid a breaker around 40£ for a new tower top cut from a wreck. Paid a bodyshop 150£ for cutting out the old and welding in the «new». Car is still running great and i guess that was about two years ago.
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The problem facing Terry is that your effective repair involves replacing the inner wing complete with turret rather than simply the turret pressing.
Incidentally your repair is what was suggested as a solution for Terry's earlier failure as it was the top mount reinforcement which had failed. The turret pressing being a few spot welds to remove/replace.
The rust on this example is about two inches below the turret pressing. Hence the suggestion to scrap it ;)
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/ap4j845l125d4bb/OE03nsTURRET2.jpg?dl=1
Thanks for the explanation, Doc. This car failed MOT on rusty sills 3 years ago, I had them welded and it has given me 3 more years service so I cannot complain. I shall now use it as an occasional spare car until I buy something better.
Is it worth cleaning up the rust, wire brush , Kurust and underseal, or should I leave it alone?
I wonder what is going wrong with my dropbox pictures?
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/dpjazi2crgiu69t/2.2exMAN.jpg?dl=0
In the past I have changed the dl=0 bit of the dropbox address to dl=1 and the picture has displayed.No longer. What am I doing wrong?
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(https://i.ibb.co/Y2nx2pm/240-C1-EA3-FBBA-4-F30-84-C5-C7053-D2271-D2.png) (https://ibb.co/y0vr0Wt)
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/hoo1rar8btmrxso/OE03ehTURRET.jpg?dl=1)
Like this!
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Any time spent now is a waste of time.
Did that shock dust cover get any mention on the MoT?
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Any time spent now is a waste of time.
Did that shock dust cover get any mention on the MoT?
It's not that big an area to do a get you by for a couple of years repair. If you weld it yourself. As it's not a visible area, it doesn't need to look good
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Any time spent now is a waste of time.
Did that shock dust cover get any mention on the MoT?[/highlight]
No, but I broke it off examining the rust.
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/oiycfsvo6dfjpi8/OE03turret.jpg?dl=1)
This is the nearside turret in the boot. Any comments?
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Good candidate for a 30 minute last longer than the rest of the car repair. Support the car, remove the shock and scrape the underseal from the repair area - 10 minutes. Grind all the rusty grot out - 5 minutes including taking the paint off the rest of the area to weld to. Make a patch 50% bigger than the damaged area and weld it in- 5 minutes. Cover both sides of the repair with brush on underseal - 1 minute. Refit the carpet - 30 seconds.
None of the job will be visible when finished, so there's no point in doubling the time to make an invisible repair.
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Don't worry Terry -- it would probably take the majority of us a bit longer than the quoted 30 minutes to this job properly! And I wouldn't advocate putting underseal over bare metal/ welded joints either - it should at least have done sort of seam sealer / primer on first, as it takes a lot of hammering from road water in that location. Unless you aren't bothered about a bodge.....
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From that side, you could replace the turret with a reasonable second hand one... that one is on it's last legs, corrosion also starting around the top mount itself (beneath the silver ring under the shock mount rubber), and water is clearly getting in in several places around the turret. The panel is clearly defined and the spot welds are all obvious.
But I would be concerned about the rest of the inner wing/wheel arch, not to mention the other side. And if that's the state of the nearside, I can't see the other side or the front end being much better :-\
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Don't worry Terry -- it would probably take the majority of us a bit longer than the quoted 30 minutes to this job properly! And I wouldn't advocate putting underseal over bare metal/ welded joints either - it should at least have done sort of seam sealer / primer on first, as it takes a lot of hammering from road water in that location. Unless you aren't bothered about a bodge.....
It depends what you want:
what I suggested is a typical MOT standard repair to get another couple of years out of the car. Underseal over clean shiny metal is plenty good enough for such a job. Hell, you could leave it as bare metal and it won't rust enough to be a problem. This is also the sort of job that's good for a beginner to start on.
A 'proper' repair would involve cutting all of the grot out, carefully shaping a panel, welding it in neatly and grinding that down, replacing whatever reinforcing was there originally and finishing off with whatever paint method you prefer.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/th50pah9drakpfa/Stiffener2.jpg?raw=1)
What you see there is extensive repairs to the floor, inner and outer sills, lower door pillar, inner arch, chassis rail, the stiffener and a scratch made panel for the outer wing. That's two weekend's work and the only part I bought was the outer sill. Car was a 1962 Hillman Superminx
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Nearside inner wing repair panel 9117704.
Offside inner wing repair panel 9117705.
Good luck finding them though :-\
That said, driver's side... https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-panel-rr-w-h-inr-9117705.html
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why not just bite the bullet, get a screwdriver and scrape off the rust, assess the problem ,if it's Swiss cheese, pull the shock ,grind out the crap till clean solid metal and repair it
OR pay someone the £100 :-\ to snot some metal on
clean it all up first and you will know the extent,and if your having it welded by someone, they will see what is involved and give an accurate price and not have to spend time cleaning up or over quoting for unknowns .check the other side too as DG says ;)
if the rest of the car is serviceable, without issues , saves hunting down a replacement vehicle, which will probably have issues and need repairs and money spent.(plus, your obviously comfy and happy in an Omega ,saves swapping insurance etc etc)
as Nick says, it's not an area you can even see, BUT ,is an area of a car that needs to be strong ,more important than a bit of crusty outer sill
it does not have to be pretty , it does need to be strong
or look for something with 12 months MOT when this car becomes un-economic to repair ,when the MOT is due again or the shock tower is unsafe ,which may be now , so , assess the rust ,rather than just looking at it
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/66kk4aoy2rpyijo/OE03rhTURRET.jpg?dl=1)
Thought I would check the right hand turret next. This looks much worse. As I lean on the rear bumperthe gap opens up.
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In which case you have two* choices... Replace the inner wing or scrap it.
It might be argued that it's repairable, but unless you are planning on restoring the whole car back to some sort of standard, it simply isn't worth it.
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Thought I would check the right hand turret next. This looks much worse. As I lean on the rear bumper the gap opens up.
That shows the limitations of the MOT tester not being allowed to dismantle things to inspect them properly.
It is however easily repairable, if you're prepared to spend a couple of hours doing it. The important bit is that the hole is in the right place, height and angle, all of which could be accomplished with a simple sheetmetal jig screwed in place. Then some simple fabrication and it's good. I would be very tempted to do that on a car that had just passed a test.
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If you are tempted to repair, I would go along with DG's train of thought - visit a scrappy with your cordless angle grinder and cut out as much of the wheel arch bowl around the turret section clearly visable in the pictures from the donor car from both sides. Then you can drill out the spot welds at your leisure but with the result of a preformed panel that could be rewelded into your car. No panel beating or worrying about the precise location of the top hole - theoretically it should line up pretty good.
It all depends though on whether there are any Omega in your local yard, and if the wheel arch bowls are solid, and if you have a cordless angle grinder! And the welding skills of whoever's doing it!
My local yard has some good Omegas in - good wheel arches and sills, solid chassis rails etc. I often wonder why they have been scrapped.....
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Terry .....
Your grounded ;D
no going out in that car till it's sorted :y
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Thanks to all for advice. I shall scrap the car. Today I bought a 2008 Vectra SRi 1.8 petrol manual, 101,000 miles MOT till April, to keep me mobile. Seems all right so far, skinny tyres, seems like a big Astra.
I still have one Omega, my trusty 2.5 PFL petrol estate, which I brought to Brackley.
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Thanks to all for advice. I shall scrap the car. Today I bought a 2008 Vectra SRi 1.8 petrol manual, 101,000 miles MOT till April, to keep me mobile. Seems all right so far, skinny tyres, seems like a big Astra.
I still have one Omega, my trusty 2.5 PFL petrol estate, which I brought to Brackley.
Is it not worth asking for a price on getting the welding done :-\
Vectra sounds nice , any issues with it ?
read the stored fault codes ,clear them and check the fans work etc ;)
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Thanks to all for advice. I shall scrap the car. Today I bought a 2008 Vectra SRi 1.8 petrol manual, 101,000 miles MOT till April, to keep me mobile. Seems all right so far, skinny tyres, seems like a big Astra.
I still have one Omega, my trusty 2.5 PFL petrol estate, which I brought to Brackley.
Is it not worth asking for a price on getting the welding done :-\
Vectra sounds nice , any issues with it ?
read the stored fault codes ,clear them and check the fans work etc ;)
The Omega has rust in front and rear wheel arches, and sills. I expected it to fail MOT this year, but it scraped through, with advisories on rear shock absorbers. But that right hand mounting looks major, doesn't it?
Only thing I noticed on the journey home from Bridgwater was a failed thermostat. I will check stored codes tomorrow. Car will need a new car pass and spare key, when I get the log book.
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a welded repair does not need to look pretty though ,just strong
Anyway , hope the Vectra pans out OK for you Terry
never had a vectra C , only a couple of vectra Bs
parts are cheap and plentiful ,
bigger than an astra ,smaller than an Omega :)
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a welded repair does not need to look pretty though ,just strong
It's feasible as long as you're not paying someone to do it.
Pretty straightforward repair if you're not too concerned about appearance.