Update on mine....
After making a makeshift shim to slide the seal on with, managed to get that to hold oil.
Top mounts changed and bump stops changed as well (main reason for mounts as damper boots were sitting on the shock body. Done all that to find the alternator is over hanging to 17A+ so that is also goosed.
Found another one in my collection which will be tried tomorrow. If not, new one coming.
Then, once that done, all codes to be cleared and then taken into work one evening to get re-geometried.
Spare alternator fitted and all is good.
Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier
Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the whee upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM
Two observations:
1. Camber adjustment bolts are a waste of time. Surropticious use of a round file will get significantly more adjustment without the risk of slipping back.
2. The current settings are irrelevant if the camber is wrong.
As a further aside, was the rear end set up at the same time?
1) I agree to a point. Worked perfectly on the left side, not quite enough on right side. Done up right, no problem with slipping back. I use them on another car with no problems. Omega is simply
made with just too much adjustment from factory. The height of the car from the floor meant that no extra movement could be made and held until bolts were tight (I could pull it to nearly upright by hand.
2) again, I agree, but if you cannot get to 1.10, 1.23 is a damn lot better than it could have been (and certainly better than 1.4’ factory number).
3) yep, rear all set up to WIM specs and zero thrust angle