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[dcjg85]

Hi all,

As you will see my posts on here have been few and far between, however I am now looking for someone who is knowledgeable with the 2.6 V6 engine in the Omega.

Long story short, I lost my father 2 years ago and his Omega was left standing at the time (other priories got in the way). Since then the car was low loaded to my late fathers mechanic as she wouldn't start. The mechanic said all the valves were bent in the engine and he suggested replacing the engine which was agreed to at the time. (not sure how true this was, as I am not a mechanic, but took him at face value, my first mistake in hindsight)

The car is now back with me, but the are various bits that are blatantly still not right, vacuum hoses not connected etc.

I fully appreciate that from a cost point of view there is probably no point working on this, however this car has great sentimental value to me and I am looking for someone who can help me get her road worthy again. I would be willing to pay for your time and travel, as I want to see her restored to her former glory.

If anyone is willing to have a look at her with me, or knows someone who can be trusted to take this on, I would very much appreciate you contacting me.

Thanks in advance,

Dan.

[zirk]

Cant help im afriad but if all the Valves are bent then it must have had a Cambelt Fail at some point, that doesn't go unnoticed.

[dcjg85]

Thanks zirk, I am pretty confident all belts looked intact and the last time the car was driven was by me as a funeral car. The car then sat un-driven until going to the mechanic. Therefore based on your comment I am guessing I was probably misled, lesson learnt on that one.

[dave the builder]

I'm in Swad
I've recently purchased a 53 plate 2.6 omega B2
whilst the 2.6 v6 is new ground to me (having driven carltons for 18 years ) i am pretty good on the spanners
(recently rebuilt a 16v 1.2 engine completely ,sump plug up to coil pack cover)
and I've lost count of how many OHC engines i've built and repaired
I have diagnostics,mechanical knowledge and a good selection of tools
I also have ,as do you , the knowledge base of this forum and it's helpful members 
I would be prepared to have a look,check the basics
I can't do you a sump plug to eco tec plastic cover rebuild though 

[zirk]

If its been stood for a while and assuming its not a imobilizer chip or key issue, my call would be Crank Sensor.

Do a Pedal Trick on the car and post up Codes, if any.

[Bigron]

If Dave can't help you, and he is one of the good blokes on here (of whom there are many - and a few, very few unpleasant types, and we all know who they are) - there is someone in particular that I could recommend - one of the kindest men that you could meet and a real Omega expert - but not without his knowledge or permission. If he is reading this he will straightaway recognise himself and could even contact you.

Ron.

[Enceladus]

If its been stood for a while and assuming its not a imobilizer chip or key issue, my call would be Crank Sensor.

Do a Pedal Trick on the car and post up Codes, if any.

I understood the OP to mean that the mechanic replaced the engine that wouldn't start? Car returned without everything properly reconnected? And presumably car is starting but not running correctly?

I find it useful to video the blink sequence (from the pedal or paperclip tricks) on my phone and then play it back. Easier to count correctly when there is more than one fault. 

[dave the builder]

I can stick my diagnostic laptop on it , read the modules, look at live data (if the engine does run)
plus having the same car ,side to side , see what's amiss 

[dcjg85]

My apologies, with regard to the scenario, the engine was replaced and the car returned. The engine does start however I have noticed the following issues with my untrained eye:

- Vacuum hoses not all connected, not sure where some of them should go? Particularly the thinnest hoses.
- Engine warning light, code relates to engine coolant temperature sensor. I have got a genuine GM replacement ready to fit.
- Radiator fans don't seem to kick in, so I don't leave the car running long in case it overheats.
- Temperature gauge on the dash doesn't seem to function anymore either.

Thank you all, for your supportive comments around this, hopefully I can get her right again. 

[dcjg85]

I can stick my diagnostic laptop on it , read the modules, look at live data (if the engine does run)
plus having the same car ,side to side , see what's amiss 

Dave I have PM'd you. 

[TheBoy]

There is a diagram of vac hoses in maintenance guides section

Pop off plenum to check the 2 temp sensors are conected

[STEMO]

If Dave can't help you, and he is one of the good blokes on here (of whom there are many - and a few, very few unpleasant types, and we all know who they are) - there is someone in particular that I could recommend - one of the kindest men that you could meet and a real Omega expert - but not without his knowledge or permission. If he is reading this he will straightaway recognise himself and could even contact you.

Ron.

Having our weekly dig are we, old man? It does you no favours because, as I've said before, it makes you appear bitter and twisted.....which you probably are 

[dave the builder]

I can stick my diagnostic laptop on it , read the modules, look at live data (if the engine does run)
plus having the same car ,side to side , see what's amiss 

Dave I have PM'd you. 

missed that , sorry , i will reply shortly 

[biggriffin]

My apologies, with regard to the scenario, the engine was replaced and the car returned. The engine does start however I have noticed the following issues with my untrained eye:

- Vacuum hoses not all connected, not sure where some of them should go? Particularly the thinnest hoses.
- Engine warning light, code relates to engine coolant temperature sensor. I have got a genuine GM replacement ready to fit.
- Radiator fans don't seem to kick in, so I don't leave the car running long in case it overheats.
- Temperature gauge on the dash doesn't seem to function anymore either.

Thank you all, for your supportive comments around this, hopefully I can get her right again. 

probably the connector isn't on correctly,

[Enceladus]

Thanks zirk, I am pretty confident all belts looked intact and the last time the car was driven was by me as a funeral car. The car then sat un-driven until going to the mechanic. Therefore based on your comment I am guessing I was probably misled, lesson learnt on that one.

As zirk said above, if the camshaft timing belt had snapped resulting in bent valves then you'd know about it.
Might be worth checking the engine number to see was it really changed?

And if it was my replacement engine, I would want to see that a new timing belt, guides, tensioner and coolant pump had been fitted. And ideally also the cam cover seals replaced and the oil breathers decrudded before installation.

[dcjg85]

Thanks zirk, I am pretty confident all belts looked intact and the last time the car was driven was by me as a funeral car. The car then sat un-driven until going to the mechanic. Therefore based on your comment I am guessing I was probably misled, lesson learnt on that one.

As zirk said above, if the camshaft timing belt had snapped resulting in bent valves then you'd know about it.
Might be worth checking the engine number to see was it really changed?

And if it was my replacement engine, I would want to see that a new timing belt, guides, tensioner and coolant pump had been fitted. And ideally also the cam cover seals replaced and the oil breathers decrudded before installation.

Where is the engine number located on the engine? I assume to check this, the engine number will also be on the V5?

Many Thanks

[dave the builder]

In no way am i sticking up for "the mechanic"
BUT
we don't know the whole story yet ,
if the car has sat for a long time AFTER it had last been driven, 
then, had been turned over when frozen (yes, some people don't replace antifreeze ) or a seized tensioner etc that could take the belt out ,
but I fully agree , checking the engine number would be a very wise move 
also agree that, at the very least , the belt should be new ,
(not all mechanics replace tensioners unless they show signs of wear )
I'm not a fan of un-known replacement engines
I think you should strip the old one, then ,if it is u/s (major damage) think about another engine as a last resort
but as it has been replaced (to be confirmed) and running , sounds like it just needs a few jobs finishing off .

[dcjg85]

In no way am i sticking up for "the mechanic"
BUT
we don't know the whole story yet ,
if the car has sat for a long time AFTER it had last been driven, 
then, had been turned over when frozen (yes, some people don't replace antifreeze ) or a seized tensioner etc that could take the belt out ,
but I fully agree , checking the engine number would be a very wise move 
also agree that, at the very least , the belt should be new ,
(not all mechanics replace tensioners unless they show signs of wear )
I'm not a fan of un-known replacement engines
I think you should strip the old one, then ,if it is u/s (major damage) think about another engine as a last resort
but as it has been replaced (to be confirmed) and running , sounds like it just needs a few jobs finishing off .

The car sat for the best part of 18 months untouched due to bigger issues at the time. When we finally sold his house, I attempted to start the car but with no success. It was then low loaded to the mechanic who informed me that the valves were bent and based on the value of the car, it would be cheaper to buy a used engine rather than replace all the damaged parts. I paid for the replacement engine and the car was returned to me around a month ago. In retrospect I probably shouldn't have agreed to the engine swap but he assured me it would cost ££££s to replace the valves etc and a replacement engine was the way to go.  Im in no way blaming the mechanic, I just don't have enough knowledge to know what the next steps are to getting her finished.

I am also interested to see if this is the same engine or otherwise?!

The car is running, and this morning I have taken the plenum off, trying to find the coolant temperature sensor(s) to see if these have been connected properly as I think this is the cause of the EML and perhaps the reason the radiator fans aren't kicking in?

[dave the builder]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

[dcjg85]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

Thanks Dave, if I could get the connector of the coolant temperate sensor, I would be laughing...its always the small things that prove difficult... 

[Andy B]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

Thanks Dave, if I could get the connector of the coolant temperate sensor, I would be laughing...its always the small things that prove difficult... 

It should just slide off. The blue wire to it has a female spade connector on it, the temp sensor terminal looks more like a drawing pin & the spade connector slides on.

[dave the builder]

It should just slide off. The blue wire to it has a female spade connector on it, the temp sensor terminal looks more like a drawing pin & the spade connector slides on.

that is the single wire item that sends the dash the tempreture
the ecu coolant tempreture sensor is the oblong plug with 2 wires
looks like this (but get the one to match your engine y26se is the 2.6  )
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-ASTRA-CAVALIER-VECTRA-OMEGA-WATER-TEMP-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-NEW/311977460416?hash=item48a34e42c0:g:l0EAAOSwxCxT6e68

[Enceladus]

Where is the engine number located on the engine? I assume to check this, the engine number will also be on the V5?
Many Thanks

The V5 will have the original engine number as at time of registration or last reported change of engine.
I believe your're supposed to notify the DVLA of an engine replacement and the new number. My guess is that does not always happen.

The number should be stamped into a machined flat on the nearside rear of the engine block adjacent to the oil filter. At least it was on 2.5 and 3.0. So nice and easy to check. Might be covered in crud and not immediately obvious. As yours is a later 2.6 the number begins Y26XE followed by a string of (is it six or eight?) digits.

[Doctor Gollum]

Fans can seize, do make sure that they spin freely

Also they are switched via temp switches in the radiator with an ecu override if ecu temp sensor reads hot or aircon is switched on

Haynes wiring diagrams will give you an idea of how they work

[dcjg85]

Thanks all, coolant temperature sensor is now in place...

I will have a look at the radiator fans today and see if I can work out whats going on, when the air con is on currently, they still don't kick in.

[deviator]

It looks like you are sorted, but I'm more than happy to help.