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[Marks DTM Calib]

Not in the least bit surprised, there was enough juice to crank the engine so the ECU and other bits would be ok.

So to summarise, the engine does not crank, if you bridge the starter solenoid, it cranks but does not fire.

It points at an inhibit somewhere.

So first thing, with ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump running for a short period of time?

Can you see if you are getting a spark with ignition on and bridging the starter solenoid to get the engine to crank?

Have you managed to get the diag kit to communicate yet?

[terry paget]

Not in the least bit surprised, there was enough juice to crank the engine so the ECU and other bits would be ok.

So to summarise, the engine does not crank, if you bridge the starter solenoid, it cranks but does not fire.

It points at an inhibit somewhere.

So first thing, with ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump running for a short period of time?

Can you see if you are getting a spark with ignition on and bridging the starter solenoid to get the engine to crank?

Have you managed to get the diag kit to communicate yet?

To check for a spark, I moved the car back over the pit, I removed the plug stick (or coilpack, whatever it's called), stuck two plugs in it and reconnected the connector. Wife walked into the garage. I opened the boot, to find the fuel pump, to listen for it; couldn't see it. Anyway, to show her what I wanted her to do, I turned the ignition key too far, and to my surprise the engine cranked. That surprised me! Also the fuel gauge showed the tank more than half full. I removed the plugs from the plug stick, replaced the plug stick on the plugs. I turned on the ignition 2 clicks. Fuel gauge again sprang to life and showed half full. I turned the key to crank and the engine started. After half a minute I left it idling and went indoors. After a minute I checked again. Engine was not running. I turned the ignition off and on again - fuel gauge now dead. Turned the key to crank - engine did not crank.

I wrote the above. I again removed the coil pack and inserted 2 plugs. I turned ignition two clicks; fuel gauge showed half full. I reported to wife, complaining the car was now mocking me.

I replaced the coil pack. Turned on ignition two clicks - fuel gauge showed half full. Switched off.

Waited 10 minutes - replaced key turned 2 clicks - fuel gauge half full.

Waited 10 minutes - replaced key turned 2 clicks = fuel gauge half full. Cranked starter, engine started, ran for a minute then stopped.

 In answer to your questions, I have not yet heard the fuel pump, but now know it is beneath the rear seat cushion. I have not seen sparks, but there must be some. I have not yet any diagnostics, my diagnoser does not seem to work on this Vectra or my other Vectra, though it works fine on the 2006 Astra.

I will try again later, to see if it works without removal of the plug stick. I find this new data encouraging, and it must help.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Right, can you try again to get fault codes read 

If its in the scenario where it will fire, fuel gauge giving a reading, you should be able to get the DTCs

[terry paget]

Right, can you try again to get fault codes read 

If its in the scenario where it will fire, fuel gauge giving a reading, you should be able to get the DTCs

I did try again with the cheapo reader, it seemed to get info, but said no codes stored. Car is currently 'dead' after the engine stop at 530 ish, now 6.01pm. Will try again.

[terry paget]

6.30pm. Put in key, turned 2 clicks, fuel gauge says half full.
Plugged in laptop diagnoser, ignition on, engine not running. Three codes came up:
P0014-63 unknown DTC
P0564-71 Cruise control interface malfunction
P0597-04 Coolant thermostat valve circuit open

When I bought the car the cruise control did not work, eventually fault traced to missing fuse FI 20
I have recently changed the thermostat housing and thermostat, that sounds the most likely troubls source, and maybe engine runs until coolant gets warm.
Please advise.

[dave the builder]

camshaft position sensor P0014 or the other 2 codes would not stop it cranking

removing the coil pack  allows it to crank is very odd

sounds like a short is occurring with the coil pack fitted that is bricking the ECM engine computer 

[Doctor Gollum]

Something pinched when rebuilding

[terry paget]

There is a temperature sensor at the back of the thermostat holder with a 2 pin connector, held in by a spring clip. I changed it for a spare, and tried again. Engine started, but stopped after about half a minute, so I replaced the original sensor. There is also a temparature sensor with a 2 pin connector in the thermostat, again held in by a spring clip, but hard to remove and wired inside so not really changeable.
My laptop diagnoser gives live data. What could I usefully watch on it?

[Marks DTM Calib]

P0014-63 is an interesting one as it relates to the camshaft phasing solenoid (usually exhaust - the front one)

Check the loom and it might be worth popping the solenoid out as the filters on them disintegrate, usual fix is to the remove the filters, clean the solenoid up, and refit.

[terry paget]

Something pinched when rebuilding

Or maybe something plugged into the wrong socket. I did that on the Rover Streetwise after a head gasket change. There were two identical sockets at the LH end of the head accepting two identical plugs, which I naturally switched. Engine started and ran, but would not idle properly.

[terry paget]

More data.
At 1440 today, fuel pump still reading half full, I set a stop watch running and started the engine. It ran without hesitation  until 1615, with fan cutting in occasionally at 93 degrees. At 1615 I stopped the engine, then restarted it successfully. I stopped and restarted it again. It seemed fine to me. I switched it off.
At 1800 I tried to start the engine, switched on, fuel gauge dead, engine would not start. At 2130 it is still dead.
 

[Broomies Mate]

I got to about page 3 (no boobs  ) and thought IGNITION SWITCH. 

Give the key a really good wiggle when turning the key.

[terry paget]

I got to about page 3 (no boobs  ) and thought IGNITION SWITCH. 

Give the key a really good wiggle when turning the key.

Thanks. Will give it a try.
 
This morning I rolled the car out of the garage, no puddle, and header tank still up to the line. My thanks to Viral Jim, for his recommendation of Loctite EA9492 as an epoxy adhesive that might repair my broken coolant pipe. As a preliminary test, see above pic, I stuck a disc of rear bumper plastic to a plastic tube lying on my garage bench, following your instructions, and next day I popped it into a dish of boiling water, tried to pull it apart, failed, boiled it on and off all day, and could not pull it apart. Thus encouraged, I stuck the pipe to the thermostat holder. It has not failed yet.

At 730am I switched on ignition, and the fuel gauge said half full.

[omegod]

I got to about page 3 (no boobs  ) and thought IGNITION SWITCH. 

Give the key a really good wiggle when turning the key.

Yeah I suggested switch too, watching with interest 

[terry paget]

Yesterday at 730am I switched on the ignition and the fuel gauge said half full. Since then checking every hour it has remained pretty dead, except on two occasions when the fuel gauge briefly sprang to life, only to die again within 30 seconds.
I thought it might be a relay, so I switched each relay in turn with the relays in Vectra estate YF57. Curiously the estate lacks the two black relays shown above at front and back, so I swopped them with each other. No joy, fuel gauge remained dead.
We are learning all the while things that are not the fault; I wonder what the fault is?