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Topics - VX1

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 13
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Temp Gauge Not Working Resolved
« on: 18 February 2013, 20:11:24 »
Hi guys, Haven't posted for a while so thought I would give you all an update on the gauge situation.
Original thread here
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=89541.0

For three and half years I have had no temp gauge working and this has been giving me hassle to try and resolve this problem. All the tests I tried did not work so thought I would remove the clocks to have a look behind them and this is what I found


I found the problem to the problem, wish I had looked here first ::)

So I decided to buy another set of clocks which I purchased from OSP, don't worry everyone they were the same clocks. Fitted them into the car and went to check them by earthing the temp gauge but nothing, the needle didn't even move aahhhhhhh!! back to square one.  >:( :(

When earthing the gauge out the needle doesn't move but the red light comes on, so this doesn't work, as a friend of mine tried it and his didn't work when earthing it out either, so heated the temp sensor and earthed it out and the needle moved up to the red yeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaa!! a working gauge problem solved  :) :) :)

So at the weekend the plenum, inlet etc will be removed and the sensor put back in its rightful place. If anyone has a situation like mine then check the back of the gauges to make sure the track is in good condition and not broken, see pic above.

If anyone needs to get replacement clocks make sure they are the correct ones, check you Ident code and product number, the product code is the eight digit number and the Ident code is two letters,  see below


2
Cars for Sale & wanted / 3.0ltr manual elite back up for sale
« on: 11 August 2012, 20:28:15 »
Reluctant sale of my beloved rare 1998 3.0ltr elite manual in metallic black. I have decided to sell as I no longer can afford to keep her any longer.
Please take a look at the original post here

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=104117.0

The only thing that has changed on this car is the tax has expired and is now SORN. I am looking for £800 ono and sensible offers only. If interested please pm me and I will consider your offer, please take into consideration the amount of time and effort that has gone into getting this car to the condition it is now like a full respray two years ago. I would like it to be sold to an oof member as it will be looked after whilst in there ownership. I am looking for a quick sale if possible before the end of the month.

Thanks for looking.

3
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / engine
« on: 22 July 2012, 11:42:59 »
anyone got a spare engine for a 3.0 v6 mf/l mig? For an S reg long nose plenum, not fussed if no ancillaries or top end maybe a short block must be in good condition.

4
Omega General Help / possible oil pump gone or something worse?
« on: 22 July 2012, 11:13:08 »
Ok chaps, where do I begin

After resealing the cam cover gaskets on a v6 and we started the engine to see if any more leaks appeared thankfully there was none so my mate then made his way home. After joining the M4 at junction 11 the oil light came on then a knocking noise, with that he pulled over onto the hard shoulder and rang me to let me know what had happened. After a while he got recovered back to Maidenhead and he sent me a recording of the noise now it sounded like bottom end had gone but now thinking about it could it be the oil pump due to the oil light coming on as this would show that there is no or little oil pressure. Would like to know what it is so he can decide wether to repair or strip.

Any help and info would be appreciated.

5
Cars for Sale & wanted / 3.0ltr Manual Omega for sale
« on: 12 June 2012, 20:13:38 »
Here we have my beloved Omega 3.0ltr Elite, which is a reluctant sale.I have done a lot to this car over the two and a half years I have owned her, as you can see from the picture's this is a 1998 model Omega with a facelift. I have removed the old bumpers front and rear and replaced with facelift bumpers, facelift bonnet and slam panel, facelift door moldings and facelift door mirrors all colour coded to the car. I have also lowered the car by 40mm which also sits on 18" rims and fitted with an after market 5" back box. I have also fitted blue led puddle lights (as you can see in the pics) I have removed the old cast iron manifolds and replaced them with stainless steel manifolds from a 3.2 omega with steal gaskets (which don't blow), the air con pipe work and rad with the fans has been removed which makes the car lighter. the plenum has been painted anthricite, cam covers have been painted red. The calipers have been painted red and blue which makes the calipers stand out. With the different body panels fitted to this car it does make it very unique and I have not seen or know of another Omega like this.

I had this car professionaly resprayed last year and the bodywork is in immaculate condition for the year.

The cambelt and rollers + water pump were replaced two years ago so they don't need replacing again until 2014 or 25,000 miles so you can tell I have only done 15,000 miles since they were done. Both head gaskets have also been done again 2 years ago at the same time as the cambelt etc. I have spent a lot of money on this car and stands me over £3000 BUT I know I will not get this back. This car also has had oil changes every 3000 miles since I have owned it and will have another oil change for the winning bidder. The Mot runs out 01/2013 tax runs out 30/06/2012. The last Mot she had showed no advisories and went straight through the MOT so I know you will have no problems getting it through next year. Tinted windows front and rear doors but not on the rear screen.

I have this listed elsewhere so have the right to remove if sold elsewhere.

The Bad points

The temp gauge doesn't work but I have installed a plasma dial temp gauge which works well.
The rear leather seats have a couple of small tears in them.

I am looking in the region of £1000 ovno

If admin want to change the link to CLICK HERE that would be fine

6
Maintenance Guides / Replacing the thermostat on a V6.
« on: 16 December 2008, 22:00:10 »
I have searched for a how to on here but have not found one so I thought I would put one on as I have had a problem with my heating. I have had cool heating coming into the car but whilst driving along the road the temp gauge would come down to just above the stop where as before it didnt. So this is why I have done this how to for the stat. If you have similar problems then this is the guide for you. Please feel free to print this off.

First of all you will need to empty the cooling system. This can be done by undoing the red tap at the right hand bottom of the rad. Undo this and release the coolant into a suitable container, do not allow to go down a drain.

Once this has been done you are now ready to start the removal process of the top part of the engine.

1) Firstly remove the throttle linkage from the plenum, also the cruise control if fitted.
2) Undo the EGR vale pipe from the EGR.
3) Remove the two trumpets that are connected to the throttle body.
4) Remove the IACV and unplug.
5) Remove the plug from the rear of the plenum.
6) Remove both coolant hoses from the throttle body.
7) Remove the plug from the front of the plenum/throttle body.
8) Remove Breather hoses from the rear of the black ecotec.
9A) Undo and remove the fuel pipes with care. Use rag under the fuel lines as not to get petrol over any hot surfaces.
9) Remove all other associated hoses or pipes from the plenum.
10) Undo the three torx bolts from the plenum and remove carefully then you will see this.



11) Once you have got this far place rag into the bores of the inlet manifold. This will stop anything dropping into the engine.
12) You are now able to undo the series of torx bolts to remove the inlet manifold. You will be met with this.



13) Remove the rag and place into the bores of the black mounting plate, again to stop anything from dropping into the engine.
14) Once you have got this far you are then able to remove the torx bolts that hold this in place. Removing this helps in removing the thermostat which gives more room.
15) Once you have removed the black mounting plate you now have access to the thermostat. Before you remove this you need to remove the link pipe.
16) Locate the bolt that holds the link pipe to the head. You will find this on the right hand side just under the engine hoist plate. At This point you will find it difficult to get a torx socket and ratchet here so a 10mm spanner is just the right size. Once this is removed you are then able to remove the link pipe.
17) Remove the thermostat and replace with a new thermostat and housing with a new seal.
18) Replace the link pipe seals as well as these can leak when refilling the cooling system with new coolant.



Once you have replaced the thermostat you can now start refitting. The refitting is the same as the removal procedure but remembering to make sure that you use the rag in the bores and you don't trap any of the vac pipes, hoses or cables.


7
Maintenance Guides / Rear Bumper removal How To
« on: 21 October 2007, 15:18:34 »
I have checked and there isn't a how to on this topic. Some of us owners at some point may need to remove the rear bumper for one reason or another, i.e, Some dosey plonker has hit the rear end of the car and damaged the bumper so you will need to remove it for a closer inspection of any damage that has been caused, or you may need to do some touching up. So here goes with a little how to help on this matter.

The procedure is of a simple one so should only take approx 10 mins to remove.

1). Firstly no need to jack up the car.

2). The only tools required are a philips screw driver (chubby) and torx sockets.

3). Get you chubby philips screwdriver and remove the two screw's from inside the rear O/s and N.s wheel arch.



4). You will also find two further screw's on the innerside of the wheel arch at the back of the bumper. Just behind the lower part of the wheel arch on both side's. (one on either side)

5). Just under the rear of the car you will find Three plastic trim pins. The centre of these pins will need to be pushed through to allow the pins to be removed.



6). Once these scew's and pins have been removed then you are able to remove the four torx screw's which will enable you to remove the bumper. At this point you will need to open the boot (if not already open). You will find that the screw's have blanking plates over them so need to remove these and they will reveal the screw's. Undo all four of them and withdraw the bumper from the car. Due to traditional Haynes manual termanoligy The fitting is the reversal of the removal. Take note that when refitting the screw's and torx screw's it might be worth smearing some copper grease over the threads.



I do appologise for the last picture but you can just make out the torx screw.
I hope this helps some of you members. The front bumper is almost the same except for you will need to remove the headlight trims,the front grill (prefaclift models only). To gain acces to the screws in the wheel arch you can turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction.

8
Maintenance Guides / Cam Cover Replacement on a 2.0ltr
« on: 29 May 2007, 19:32:43 »
When replacing the cam cover gaskets on a 2.0ltr x20xev engine you must make sure that you have the following tools.

1. Ratchet and exstention bar.
2. 10 mm socket/spanner and allen key's or allen key socket's.
3. Screwdriver or mole grip's.
4. new gasket.
5. Gasket sealer.
6. cleaning rags.
7. Spark plug socket.
8. 13 mm socket.

Once you have got these item's then you can proceed.

1. Undo the 10 mm bolt that holds the loom that sits on the cambelt cover and move forward.
2. Remove the allen key bolts that hold the plug lead cover and remove.
3. Remove the plug leads (noting the correct order) and put to one side.
4. Remove all breather hoses from camshaft cover.
5. Remove the breather hose from the breather pipe from the top right hand corner of the cover.
6. Inspect this metal breather pipe for clogging of any contamination. if contamination present then from underneath the car undo and remove the breather pipe from the main block. Once removed you must clean thoroughly to unblock contamination. Once this is done then replace but add a smear of gasket sealant to breather and replace. Do up the two bolts until tight.
7. Once all hoses are removed then proceed to undoing and remove the camshaft cover.
8. Check all plug holes for oil. If oil present remove the plugs with the spark plug socket. Don't worry if the oil drain's down into the piston chamber's as this will burn off when you start the car and you will see blue smoke coming from the exhaust. This does not damage the engine or cat.
9. Clean all mating surface's of the cylinder head.
10. Remove the old gasket and clean the cover.
11. At this point you can, once clean, fit teh new gasket and O rings into the cam cover grooves.
12. Now apply the gasket sealent to the base of the cam caps and the corners of the rear half moon machinings, basicaly every where the rubber gasket has to pass through a 90 deg bend (see V6 guide for further clarification as to where to apply the goo)
13. Now you are ready to start replacing the camshaft cover onto the head. When bolting the cover back on to the head remember to do the bolts up in a clockwise rotation this will allow the cover and the sealent to bolt evenly.

After you have replaced the camshaft cover the fiting of everything else is the reverse of removing. Remember to make sure that all hoses are clear from any form of blockage when putting back on.

If you have this when removing the cam cover then refer to item No.8



Or like this


If you have this problem with the metal breather pipe then refer to item No.6


I hope this helps out members with 2.0ltr engines.

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Temp Gauge not working Help!!
« on: 28 March 2010, 18:14:33 »
Hello guy's,

Well my temp gauge stopped working for no reason. Now I have tried disconnecting the battery for a while then reconnect, didn't work, tried a wire direct to the loom connection behind the dash clocks, nothing, tried earthing the gauge to see if anything happens, nothing, tried two other known good clocks again nothing. I am now at a loss of what to try next so hoping someone on here could help.

Thanks in advance
Paul

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Front Fogs
« on: 12 June 2009, 17:06:07 »
Right the next job I have got to do is re-wire the fog lights from the original wiring to the wiring on the facelift fog lights. Now there is only one cable on the facelift fogs but two for the pre-facelift.

What I was thinking about doing was to link up the two seperate cables then run that to the single cable. Is this as easy as it sounds or would I need to have it with an inline fuse?
 :y
Paul

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Yet another non- starter
« on: 24 November 2008, 19:52:07 »
I wil appologise now if this is in the wrong place.
Basically I can't get a friend omega started with the key, it's had a new barrel for the original key, fitted the new barrel (which only goes in one way) connected the ignition switch on and plugged the connector onto the ig switch. Now the problem is the car won't start with the key BUT will start by hot wiring the car, everything is still original.
Now my question is would the ignition switch be causing this problem or something else? Just to add when turning the key to number 1 position the ignition lights come on but turning the key to position 2 the lights go out and won't start  :(

Any help will be grateful not sure what else it can be.
The car is a 2.0ltr S plate.

Paul  :y

12
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Headlight cables?
« on: 05 November 2008, 19:29:16 »
Just nee to know what are the connections of the wires that connect ont the .............

Yellow Wire......... connects to the bulb (+ or - )
Brown wire.......... connects to the light unit ( + or - )

I need help so I can connect my new lights.

Paul  :y

13
Evenin all,

This one is for the ICE doctor (Dave DND). My stereo was working on Sunday and now it's not. It lights up but there is nothing even the cd changer does not work. Is this now fubard or is there some quick fix to this? I have checked the fuse in the back of the stereo and replaced with a new one (nothing wrong with the old) or do I have to buy a replacement?
T.I.A

Paul  :y

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / CD changer help!
« on: 24 January 2008, 19:01:33 »
Hi all,

I have a cd changer in the elite but is doesn't work at the moment, I was told it just needs the fuse putting in, BUT where is it? Is it under the steering wheel in the fuse box or else where?

Thanks in advance

Paul  :y

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Front fogs on a 95 Omega.
« on: 16 September 2007, 17:19:19 »
I have just fitted a front bumper with f/fogs on my 95 2.0ltr gls. I have connected them to the plugs already there but they don't work. According to the haynes book the fuse is F16 20 amp fuse and nothing is there not even the wiring connections. My question is, is the front fogs on a different fuse or is it F16? If it is F16 then what would I need to do to get them wired in and work?

thanks in advance. Paul  :y

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