Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: zirk on 29 July 2019, 18:43:25
-
2004, not parked near Home, suddenly the Key will not work in Ing Barrell (wont turn or budge) and steering Lock is on, problem is both the Front electric windows are now stuck down as cant get the Ing. to switch on, limited tools on board.
1, have managed to get drivers side door panel off, but looking at it I dont think there is any way I can force the Window Up, any ideas on this?
2, Any way I can force the Ing. to be on ie, force Relay etc, or electricary so I can at least get the windows up?
3 Any other thoughts or help would be great.
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
powerprobe on the window motors to close them. = Dont understand what you mean Nick
Ive tried WD40 and all the wriggling possible but no joy.
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
powerprobe on the window motors to close them. = Dont understand what you mean Nick
Ive tried WD40 and all the wriggling possible but no joy.
He means put 12v across the motor, providing you have the kit with you to do it.
-
take the load off the steering lock?
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
powerprobe on the window motors to close them. = Dont understand what you mean Nick
Ive tried WD40 and all the wriggling possible but no joy.
He means put 12v across the motor, providing you have the kit with you to do it.
on the windos motor plug there are 5 wires ???
-
If you've got the door car off couldn't you remove the motor, or at least enough so the cog isn't engaged in the winder mechanism, thereby allowing you to life/jiggle the window closed m appreciate if you haven't got the right torx no use.
Also as above, take a bit of load off the steering lock, and be gentle, even trying the key in alternate ways round can make enough of a difference. J had I once I sat there trying it for 20mins, everyone thought I was mad, clearly it was seized, but I would not give up, then it went. All you need is to get it to position 2 (I think) so you can pop the barrel out with an angled bit of coat hangar/allen key whatever, strip the levers out the barrel, then reinstate it temporarily.
-
If you've got the door car off couldn't you remove the motor, or at least enough so the cog isn't engaged in the winder mechanism, thereby allowing you to life/jiggle the window closed m appreciate if you haven't got the right torx no use.
Also as above, take a bit of load off the steering lock, and be gentle, even trying the key in alternate ways round can make enough of a difference. J had I once I sat there trying it for 20mins, everyone thought I was mad, clearly it was seized, but I would not give up, then it went. All you need is to get it to position 2 (I think) so you can pop the barrel out with an angled bit of coat hangar/allen key whatever, strip the levers out the barrel, then reinstate it temporarily.
to get the motor out looks kime wundow needs to be up, besides its all popped riveted together from the other side, so glass is in the way.
-
is total closure enabled on the fob ?
(hold lock as per Omega )
-
is total closure enabled on the fob ?
(hold lock as per Omega )
already tried fob and key doesnt work, but keep them coming.
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
powerprobe on the window motors to close them. = Dont understand what you mean Nick
Ive tried WD40 and all the wriggling possible but no joy.
He means put 12v across the motor, providing you have the kit with you to do it.
on the windos motor plug there are 5 wires ???
If you've got a 12v source, just ground one end and have a prod, don't be a wimp. ;D
-
powerprobe on the window motors to close them.
Try some switch cleaner in the lock barrel and keep jiggling it and the steering wheel. This MIGHT be enough to release it.
This is a common problem on Vx ignitions in hot weather.
powerprobe on the window motors to close them. = Dont understand what you mean Nick
Ive tried WD40 and all the wriggling possible but no joy.
He means put 12v across the motor, providing you have the kit with you to do it.
on the windos motor plug there are 5 wires ???
If you've got a 12v source, just ground one end and have a prod, don't be a wimp. ;D
last time I tried something like that was on aBMW and it shatered the glass.
-
Currently got both cowlings off despite the wheel being locked, how does the plastic switch end bit come off the barrel before I end up breaking something.
Also looks like 4 wires going to Ing Switch amy ideas which is which.
-
rock the steering back and forth while wiggling and turning the key ,use reasonable force
you will need to resolve the stuck key anyway
if it breaks you have not really lost anything ,because the key and barrel probably need replacing anyway
-
rock the steering back and forth while wiggling and turning the key ,use reasonable force
you will need to resolve the stuck key anyway
if it breaks you have not really lost anything ,because the key and barrel probably need replacing anyway
thanks dave but trust me Ive tried everything, banging, tapping, wriggling, 2 keys etc, its not having it.
-
Thinking out loud is there any way I can force the acessary timer on that work the windows
-
Currently got both cowlings off despite the wheel being locked, how does the plastic switch end bit come off the barrel before I end up breaking something.
Also looks like 4 wires going to Ing Switch amy ideas which is which.
there are 2 tabs to squeeze to remove the ignition electric switch BUT I think you need the ignition barrel removed to slide it out , sorry
you can force it towards the passenger side with a flat blade screwdriver ,and break the tabs ,freeing the switch, then turn the switch with a key or screwdriver to on ( to do the windows up) but you'll need a new switch when you rebuild it all
-
Currently got both cowlings off despite the wheel being locked, how does the plastic switch end bit come off the barrel before I end up breaking something.
Also looks like 4 wires going to Ing Switch amy ideas which is which.
there are 2 tabs to squeeze to remove the ignition electric switch BUT I think you need the ignition barrel removed to slide it out , sorry
you can force it towards the passenger side with a flat blade screwdriver ,and break the tabs ,freeing the switch, then turn the switch with a key or screwdriver to on ( to do the windows up) but you'll need a new switch when you rebuild it all
can only see 1 tab at the front
-
What if I stuff 12v on thd main Ing. Fuse ???
-
Currently got both cowlings off despite the wheel being locked, how does the plastic switch end bit come off the barrel before I end up breaking something.
Also looks like 4 wires going to Ing Switch amy ideas which is which.
there are 2 tabs to squeeze to remove the ignition electric switch BUT I think you need the ignition barrel removed to slide it out , sorry
you can force it towards the passenger side with a flat blade screwdriver ,and break the tabs ,freeing the switch, then turn the switch with a key or screwdriver to on ( to do the windows up) but you'll need a new switch when you rebuild it all
can only see 1 tab at the front
pic (the T at the top will snap with force )
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WT4AAOSwb21cwZyr/s-l1600.jpg)
lever this part off the rest with a flat screwdriver
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2A8AAOSwqYRcwZyr/s-l1600.jpg)
Mods please remove this when Zirk is sorted
-
switch is less than £10 ,new barrel is about the same from ebay
I did this recently on one of our astra G ,ignition barrel snapped the nipple off that goes into the switch
but I'b be wiggling the key /steering first until the key came out or snapped ,because it needs to be removed sooner or later ;D
-
Right I managed to break the end cap off the switch but still cant remove switch. I have 4 wire, going clockwise starting at 1oclock, 1. Black wire red stripe, 2 Black wire, 3, black wire, 4, thinner small red wire ???
-
I don't have a wiring diagram and i just forced the switch off the column ,which works
-
I don't have a wiring diagram and i just forced the switch off the column ,which works
ok the switch looks different to your pic, or its got more plastic added, so you reckon just snap it off
-
1 part is the connector block with wires, then the switch , then the housing
you need to lever between the housing and the switch to force 2 sections away (the switch AND the connector block )
sounds like so far, you just got the cover off the connector block
-
Ok managed to break the switch off with my hand and a piece of wood. Ing is on but the windows are not working ffs.
-
turn the switch a further turn (out of gear in case it is in 2 position )
-
turn the switch a further turn (out of gear in case it is in 2 position )
have engine running Dave.
-
you may have to remove the fob from the horseshoe of the key, turn the switch to off with screwdriver, then put fob back by ring , then turn switch (imobilizer sequence ,as id you where doing it with a key)
turn the switch a further turn (out of gear in case it is in 2 position )
have engine running Dave.
scrap what i just typed then
do the windows not go up now :-\
-
you may have to remove the fob from the horseshoe of the key, turn the switch to off with screwdriver, then put fob back by ring , then turn switch (imobilizer sequence ,as id you where doing it with a key)
turn the switch a further turn (out of gear in case it is in 2 position )
have engine running Dave.
scrap what i just typed then
do the windows not go up now :-\
no, dead.
-
Electric mirrors dead as well now. :-\
-
:'(
IIRC you need to sync the remote fob to get windows working again
is the fob dead ?
or will it sync if you do what i said (about removing the fob ,off, fob back, turn switch, press unlock) to sync
-
Sigh.... :-\
Fuse f17 in the box under the dash....30A.
(https://i.ibb.co/s97ByWz/BB7612-A3-A320-4073-BC8-E-EF2-D84-C63439.png) (https://ibb.co/whtvMcj)
Sorry, posted before I read Dave's post.
-
Fob works, just tried dissing the Battery for 10 muns lick up unlick etc windows still dead.
-
Fob works, just tried dissing the Battery for 10 muns lick up unlick etc windows still dead.
have you plugged the window switches back in ? you had the door card off :-\
-
Fob works, just tried dissing the Battery for 10 muns lick up unlick etc windows still dead.
have you plugged the window awitches back in ? you had the door card off :-\
yes and double re plugged
-
Fob works, just tried dissing the Battery for 10 muns lick up unlick etc windows still dead.
have you plugged the window awitches back in ? you had the door card off :-\
yes and double re plugged
Fuses next....f17 and f20
-
the windows are run from the central locking module ,so if the fob is synced ,windows should work
try with door shut :-\
or see if comfort close / total closure works (all doors,boot,bonnet shut) press lock (best done from inside the car, just in case :o
my nearest astra G or zafira A are 20 miles away ,so i can't play to check and my memory is not great because it;s been ages since i messed with either
-
Fob works, just tried dissing the Battery for 10 muns lick up unlick etc windows still dead.
have you plugged the window awitches back in ? you had the door card off :-\
yes and double re plugged
Fuses next....f17 and f20
no fuse in 17 no fuse contacts either checking 20 now
-
F20 ok
-
Total closer not working, not sure if it did or after Ive dissed the Battery anyway.
-
F15 and F21
-
Fob still licks car when Ing. Is turned in, I thought it wouldnt work or did I dream that bit.
-
F15 and F21
both ok
-
Phone a friend ;D
Ask him if he's in the AA and get his membership number.
-
with ignition switch turned completely off ,fob removed from transponder ring area , does the remote lock the doors ?
-
Fob still licks car when Ing. Is turned in, I thought it wouldnt work or did I dream that bit.
just checked another Astra, stranger in street, yr 2000 central fob doesnt wirk when key in ing.
Is there another jey in sensor now that Ive broken the switch off ??
-
with ignition switch turned completely off ,fob removed from transponder ring area , does the remote lock the doors ?
yes as per norm.
-
sorry, my bad , the id40 chip may still be in the horseshoe even with the fob removed (wedged in one corner )
so you need to remove that :-[
-
Fxxk Sake sorted it, when you turn the key to Ing. You have to push the Ing switch in all the time from 0 ti 3 and hold it pushed un to operate the windows.
-
Thank f**k for that.
-
so sync the key, remove the fob and ID40 chip, lock the car with fob and return with new lock and switch at a more convenient time ;D
-
Anyway Dave thanks for all your help and suggetions, nice ine mate. And you steve fie making the Tea.
Dave, Beers on Me when we meet. :y
Steve, make your own bloodly Tea, ;D
-
I was only hanging around because I thought you might be stuck there all night and I fancied a laugh. ;D
-
Glad you sorted it
No beer required , but thanks :y
I was only hanging around because I thought you might be stuck there all night and I fancied a laugh. ;D
:D ;D
-
And join the AA/RAC, tight arse.
-
Remove the lock barrel while it's still working, you need to be able to turn it to do so.
A new one is a good idea, which is quick and cheap if you don't mind another key, and a longer wait if you want one that matches your current key. Which is the best option
-
And join the AA/RAC, tight arse.
I've got auto aid and RAC via my bank Uncle Stemo :y
Zirk needs to get cover , not me ;D
Ideally , could Mods please clean up this thread / delete thanks :y
-
Just to add because I removed the Battery Ive now done window recycle and reset and key does dk total closure, fob doesnt though, sounds about right as my Corsa is the same key only. :-\
-
And join the AA/RAC, tight arse.
I've got auto aid and RAC via my bank Uncle Stemo :y
Zirk needs to get cover , not me ;D
Ideally , could Mods please clean up this thread / delete thanks :y
I meant Zirk, obviously, it's just that you keep butting in between my helpful posts. ;D
-
Just to add because I removed the Battery Ive now done window recycle and reset and key does dk total closure, fob doesnt though, sounds about right as my Corsa is the same key only. :-\
-
Remove the lock barrel while it's still working, you need to be able to turn it to do so.
A new one is a good idea, which is quick and cheap if you don't mind another key, and a longer wait if you want one that matches your current key. Which is the best option
Ing barrel is still stuck solid, wont turn with the key, hench why I ended up snappinf the switch off Nick. So next task is to remove the barrel somehow with out breaking the alloy housing.
Could try drilling it but dont hold much hope on that one. Any ideas ?
-
BFT or modify a flat screwdriver and apply some leverage with a scaffold bar to shear the lock and then remove as per instructions :-\
-
BFT or modify a flat screwdriver and apply some leverage with a scaffold bar to shear the lock and then remove as per instructions :-\
Ok Ive just had 5 lots of BFT (Bacon and Fried Tomatos) now what ?
-
BFT or modify a flat screwdriver and apply some leverage with a scaffold bar to shear the lock and then remove as per instructions :-\
Ok Ive just had 5 lots of BFT (Bacon and Fried Tomatos) now what ?
I was thinking more along the lines of Blunt Force Trauma/Batter Ta Fook, but at the end of a trying shift I must confess that bacon and tomatoes sounds like a good idea :D
-
BFT or modify a flat screwdriver and apply some leverage with a scaffold bar to shear the lock and then remove as per instructions :-\
Ok Ive just had 5 lots of BFT (Bacon and Fried Tomatos) now what ?
I was thinking more along the lines of Blunt Force Trauma/Batter Ta Fook, but at the end of a trying shift I must confess that bacon and tomatoes sounds like a good idea :D
Well Im on my seventh one now and Im raring to go, so just need to get a Flat Screwdriver and do what with a Scafold Pole, ......... Oh, hang on a Minuite need to suddenly go to the Loo, :-[
-
Basically you want to cobble summat together to release the steering lock. A crook lock might just give you enough leverage to get it done... :-\
-
It's a long long time since I looked but is the alloy housing still clamped round the steering column using shear bolts? If so would it not be less destructive to drill these out to release the housing?
-
It's a long long time since I looked but is the alloy housing still clamped round the steering column using shear bolts? If so would it not be less destructive to drill these out to release the housing?
I suspect that the lock/barrel release is similar to the Omega ;)
-
continue rocking the steering and wiggling the key until it turns or breaks ,as per previous comments
.
if it turns ,remove the barrel ,if it snaps ,drill out enough to get a screwdriver in to act as a key and apply rotational force as you would the key) this may involve mole grips or spanner etc to give you leverage, to sheer the brass lock tumblers . or drill out enough to remove the tumblers / turn the barrel
a barrel with 2 keys is £10 , switch £10 , or less , a new or s/h housing with column is ££ and a faf
-
continue rocking the steering and wiggling the key until it turns or breaks ,as per previous comments
.
if it turns ,remove the barrel ,if it snaps ,drill out enough to get a screwdriver in to act as a key and apply rotational force as you would the key) this may involve mole grips or spanner etc to give you leverage, to sheer the brass lock tumblers . or drill out enough to remove the tumblers / turn the barrel
a barrel with 2 keys is £10 , switch £10 , or less , a new or s/h housing with column is ££ and a faf
Really? To car pass specification? If so, my spare key dilemma is solved.
-
continue rocking the steering and wiggling the key until it turns or breaks ,as per previous comments
.
if it turns ,remove the barrel ,if it snaps ,drill out enough to get a screwdriver in to act as a key and apply rotational force as you would the key) this may involve mole grips or spanner etc to give you leverage, to sheer the brass lock tumblers . or drill out enough to remove the tumblers / turn the barrel
a barrel with 2 keys is £10 , switch £10 , or less , a new or s/h housing with column is ££ and a faf
Really? To car pass specification? If so, my spare key dilemma is solved.
A matched cylinder will be more than £10, but it's worth paying so you only need one key.
Your spare key 'dilemma' is of your own making, and doesn't need such workarounds
-
continue rocking the steering and wiggling the key until it turns or breaks ,as per previous comments
.
if it turns ,remove the barrel ,if it snaps ,drill out enough to get a screwdriver in to act as a key and apply rotational force as you would the key) this may involve mole grips or spanner etc to give you leverage, to sheer the brass lock tumblers . or drill out enough to remove the tumblers / turn the barrel
a barrel with 2 keys is £10 , switch £10 , or less , a new or s/h housing with column is ££ and a faf
Really? To car pass specification? If so, my spare key dilemma is solved.
No Terry , just a pre cut set with no ID40 chip or remote fob
check your messages :y
-
continue rocking the steering and wiggling the key until it turns or breaks ,as per previous comments
.
if it turns ,remove the barrel ,if it snaps ,drill out enough to get a screwdriver in to act as a key and apply rotational force as you would the key) this may involve mole grips or spanner etc to give you leverage, to sheer the brass lock tumblers . or drill out enough to remove the tumblers / turn the barrel
a barrel with 2 keys is £10 , switch £10 , or less , a new or s/h housing with column is ££ and a faf
Really? To car pass specification? If so, my spare key dilemma is solved.
No Terry , just a pre cut set with no ID40 chip or remote fob
check your messages :y
Reply sent.
-
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/309ukouh4udd4pv/CHIPinFOB.jpg?dl=1)
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
-
The above pic is half of an Astra H fob, showing the chip. The other half of the fob contains the blade, numbered 3579, and the battery. I appreciate this is way off the Vauxhall Zafira topic, and I apologise. I am still seeking a way of getting a spare key for less than £213.
-
The above pic is half of an Astra H fob, showing the chip. The other half of the fob contains the blade, numbered 3579, and the battery. I appreciate this is way off the Vauxhall Zafira topic, and I apologise. I am still seeking a way of getting a spare key for less than £213.
All my Astra H and Vectra C blades are numbered 3579, must be the spare part number, not the cut.
-
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/309ukouh4udd4pv/CHIPinFOB.jpg?dl=1)
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
the newer fobs for astra H have the transponder soldered to the board but there are 2 types valeo OR delphi(needs to match orgiginal)
I've not tried,but internet land says you need a virgin ,un-programmed board , NOT a second hand one
Zafira A and satra H and Omega just has a little black wedge ID40 chip
-
For arguments sake, presumably you would simply glue the Omega chip into the Vectra C fob if you wanted to replace your Omega fobs with new ones... :y
-
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
the newer fobs for astra H have the transponder soldered to the board but there are 2 types valeo OR delphi(needs to match orgiginal)
I've not tried,but internet land says you need a virgin ,un-programmed board , NOT a second hand one
Zafira A and satra H and Omega just has a little black wedge ID40 chip
Sorry that should read astra G , NOT astra H :-[
-
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
the newer fobs for astra H have the transponder soldered to the board but there are 2 types valeo OR delphi(needs to match orgiginal)
I've not tried,but internet land says you need a virgin ,un-programmed board , NOT a second hand one
Zafira A and satra H and Omega just has a little black wedge ID40 chip
Sorry that should read astra G , NOT astra H :-[
That's ok, it didn't read either of those. ;D
-
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
the newer fobs for astra H have the transponder soldered to the board but there are 2 types valeo OR delphi(needs to match orgiginal)
I've not tried,but internet land says you need a virgin ,un-programmed board , NOT a second hand one
Zafira A and satra H and Omega just has a little black wedge ID40 chip
Sorry that should read astra G , NOT astra H :-[
That's ok, it didn't read either of those. ;D
I imagine your only interested in the alloy wheels and easy to fence personal belongings Uncle Stemo ;D :D
-
Fob is not the Omega fob. I presume the gold coloured piece is the chip.
the newer fobs for astra H have the transponder soldered to the board but there are 2 types valeo OR delphi(needs to match orgiginal)
I've not tried,but internet land says you need a virgin ,un-programmed board , NOT a second hand one
Zafira A and satra H and Omega just has a little black wedge ID40 chip
Sorry that should read astra G , NOT astra H :-[
That's ok, it didn't read either of those. ;D
I imagine your only interested in the alloy wheels and easy to fence personal belongings Uncle Stemo ;D :D
Where is is all heart I think another of STEMO's hobbies is rescuing cats from underneath cars & these aren't the furry kind. ::) :-X