Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
Means you drive an auto tractor engined omega with 225/55/16 tyres, and HID headlights.
So I'm guessing a 1998/9 2.5TD Elite auto....
Both of the mapping heavyweights, TeleAtlas and NavTech are pretty much on the ball when it comes to updates.
The maps are "Amended" with information such as proposed roads at the time of software updates, but obviously this is never going to be 100% precise.
Roads and Bypasses are changed on a daily basis, and maps are launched once or maybe twice a year depending on supplier.
Root around in the car, and you will find a perfectly useable AA road atlas, and its probably more than 5 years out of date, but the point I mam trying to make is that you would still consider using it to get from A to B.
Personally, I update mine every year in my VW, and yes, I do see a benefit from it, but then I cover a phenominal mileage every year, so the small additions really do add up in my case. That said, the Nav disc in my Ferrari is probably two years old, and even that doesn`t miss a road - if it does, then I haven`t noticed it as it doesn`t really do the mileage to warrant yet another hundred quid for a disc.
Horses for Courses really - how often does the nav mapping fail to get you where you wanted to go?
:-/
QuoteI have a ND2013 system that over the past week will not load the disk just keeps on spiting out. I have used a cd cleaner but no good .
Has and one had this happen to them. I plays cd in the nav disk slot just fine.
Thanks
Steve.
Mine sometimes does that, If I leave it after a minute or so it takes it back in.
Quotebrand new complete key fob from vaux £26 + vat !!Which will need programming.
If its just the switches, a member on here, Martin Imber, is doing a switch replacement...
I will happily depair/remove old display and fit/pair yours. I'd love to do this for free, but I need to make a charge (http://theboy.omegaowners.com) to partially cover the initial and ongoing costs of the Tech2. I've done a few of these now. Marks_DTM_Calib has similar facilities and knows his stuff as well.
Carpass is the bit of card that in your case has the mechanical key number and immobiliser PIN on it (older cars also have radio code and cd codes on). If lost, your dealer can get from VIN for £15 to £45 (shop around!).
Is yours a NCDC2011, NCDC2013 or NDCD2015?
QuoteDo you reckon we could aim at doing this on the weekend of the 1st or 2nd of March?
I also have read on here that there are a number of other "upgrades" which can be achieved with a Tech II, such as the Auto Gearbox software and stuff. Would it be possible to bring everything software-wise up to date at the same time?
Won't know until a bit nearer the time.
Only worthwhile upgrades are auto gearbox update and climate control update.
QuoteExcellent newsQuoteQuote
I will happily depair/remove old display and fit/pair yours. I'd love to do this for free, but I need to make a charge (http://theboy.omegaowners.com) to partially cover the initial and ongoing costs of the Tech2. I've done a few of these now.
Carpass is the bit of card that in your case has the mechanical key number and immobiliser PIN on it (older cars also have radio code and cd codes on). If lost, your dealer can get from VIN for £15 to £45 (shop around!).
Is yours a NCDC2011, NCDC2013 or NDCD2015?
Sounds like a good deal. I've managed to find EdwardMickey and have dropped him a PM and e-mail, so i'll let you know by PM where we're going on this.
EdwardMickey (Keith) and I have agreed on a price for the CID. Thanks for the lead.
More than happy to pay your going rate. I'll have to get in touch with the seller to make sure he's got, or can get, the carpass.
We are thinking about pestering you to do our respective CID/GID swap outs on the same day at your place as soon after I get the car as possible (I pick it up on the 29th of this month, woo hoo).
Having spoken to Mickey (not being able to see the car right now) we reckon it is a NCDC2013 as it has the single slot for the CD at the top and a 4CD multi-changer below. It has a black front (not silver like a Vectra) and does not have the SIM card holder attachment in the glove box as some of the German Omegas have.
Thanks and look forward to meeting you then or in Telford if I can get there.
If you could peraps you could PM me with a number so I and Keith can get in touch with you to arrange a good time.
Makes sense to do on same day.
Quote
Makes sense to do on same day.
Only problem is that I'm keen to get it removed soonest so that I can sell the car soonest!
Quote
I will happily depair/remove old display and fit/pair yours. I'd love to do this for free, but I need to make a charge (http://theboy.omegaowners.com) to partially cover the initial and ongoing costs of the Tech2. I've done a few of these now.
Carpass is the bit of card that in your case has the mechanical key number and immobiliser PIN on it (older cars also have radio code and cd codes on). If lost, your dealer can get from VIN for £15 to £45 (shop around!).
Is yours a NCDC2011, NCDC2013 or NDCD2015?
Sounds like a good deal. I've managed to find EdwardMickey and have dropped him a PM and e-mail, so i'll let you know by PM where we're going on this.
QuoteI will happily depair/remove old display and fit/pair yours. I'd love to do this for free, but I need to make a charge (http://theboy.omegaowners.com) to partially cover the initial and ongoing costs of the Tech2. I've done a few of these now. Marks_DTM_Calib has similar facilities and knows his stuff as well.QuoteQuoteThanks for that.Me
£1000 ain't going to happen!
I'll spend that on other stuff long before a colour screen. So this unpairing thing is not an easy process I take it?
What is the "head unit"? Is it an unreasonable logic to think "OK I'll look into screen and head unit"? What's involved there or is it easier to try to find an "unpaired" screen?
BTW Who is "The Boy"?
The GID needs to be unpaired from your existing head unit. Your carpass is needed for this.
The CID (in delivery mode!) is then paired to your head unit, again, carpass needed. RGB cable also needed.
If the CID is not in delivery mode, its as much use as a brick.
All sounds good, I think mine's the Siemens head unit with Bose sound system ont eh later Elite 3.2.
So where would I start to look for a CID in delivery mode?
What's the "carpass"?
Where do I get the RGB lead, I suppose you'd get that from teh source of the CID?
What's a typical price?
If I pay someone to help me fit this; i.e. "The Boy" or another willing helper what's the going rate?
If you wanted to PM me on this aspect then please do or write to nathanmoulds(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Thanks, I really appreciate the advice so far.I'm brand new here and to my Omega so I'm a bit clueless at present. I'm no numpty and will get there quickly if given guidance.
Carpass is the bit of card that in your case has the mechanical key number and immobiliser PIN on it (older cars also have radio code and cd codes on). If lost, your dealer can get from VIN for £15 to £45 (shop around!).
Is yours a NCDC2011, NCDC2013 or NDCD2015?
QuoteThanks for that.Me
£1000 ain't going to happen!
I'll spend that on other stuff long before a colour screen. So this unpairing thing is not an easy process I take it?
What is the "head unit"? Is it an unreasonable logic to think "OK I'll look into screen and head unit"? What's involved there or is it easier to try to find an "unpaired" screen?
BTW Who is "The Boy"?
The GID needs to be unpaired from your existing head unit. Your carpass is needed for this.
The CID (in delivery mode!) is then paired to your head unit, again, carpass needed. RGB cable also needed.
If the CID is not in delivery mode, its as much use as a brick.
I'm brand new here and to my Omega so I'm a bit clueless at present. I'm no numpty and will get there quickly if given guidance. 
QuoteQuoteTunnie and I proved that a 3.0 Omega auto is quicker than a 24v senny.... ....its was teh poor power delivery on 24v that made it seem faster.QuoteQuoteMy 92 Senator used to have this. :-? Easier to set too.Radio was the only decent thing in that car. Actually, the only part that didn't rust either
& I thought you were going to say that the FM siganl failed on your
???4780!
I still say that my 24v Senator would beat my Omega hands/tyres down over all. :-?
The figures for the two cars say than an Omega is quicker, but I still think the Senator was a better all round car! So, ner ner ne ner ner!
