Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[addy]

Can anyone tell me why the Contitech timing belt CT870, which came in the full Contitech kit CT870K1, will not fit on my Omega 2ltr, the kit is the right one for my model car. It is as if it is too small, the tensioner is set as it should be, Allen key piece at 7oclock pointer by waterpump. If I pull the right side as looking at front of engine tight, it seems as if the belt sits on the peaks on the cam but they are timed correct. If I fit it as per instructions clockwise, it will not go on, as too tight. It is driving me mad.

[tunnie]

I just Googled CT870K1, eBay suggests this is for 1.8 petrol?

[terry paget]

Have you changed the water pump? If so, is it correctly positioned?

[addy]

Here is what contitech say for that kit:- http://aam-europe.contitech.de/pages/pic/produkte.cshtml?lg=en&applg=en&ArtikelID=CT870K1

In vehicles it says opel omega x20xev.

The lug of waterpump is inline with the lug on engine, roughly 11oclock. Allen key part is 7oclock


cams
timing marks

[terry paget]

I'm sorry, I can't find a picture, it was some while ago I changed a cambelt on a 2 litre. Like you I found the belt seemed too short. Then I discovered I had the water pump, with off centre pulley, incorrectly located. The pump ear should have been aligned with a cut out in the back plate, at about 9 o'clock. When relocated, the belt fitted well.

[addy]

I fitted the tensioner, and read on Gates site that it should be set to 7 oclock on the allen key part, with pointer over to stop on left, before fitting the belt, otherwise it can cause problems when the engine is running once tensioned is that correct? Read the how to in maintenance for head gasket and belt change, it just says set the tensioner adjustment to the minimum (fully anti clockwise). Locate the teeth of the cambelt into the crank sprocket etc.

How did you find out about the pump?

[terry paget]

It's in Haynes, 3.5, refitting coolant pump, 6, c)
says 'The lug on the side of the coolant pump flange must be aligned with the corresponding recess in the cylinder block.

In Haynes 2B.7.8, there is a picture giving an idea of where the lug locates at about 10 o'clock.

[addy]

pictures showing pump in place and how tensioner is set, ready for belt to go on, I moved the allen key part slightly and the belt is on.I haven't moved the key to move the pointer over to right hand side yet, ready for first 2 rotations of crank. Is the allen key part correct at 7oclock for fitting belt, and 5oclock when set correct?

Crank is at TDC, as I made at note of where it was for removing and replacing head and cams and how much to bring it back upto TDC.

[terry paget]

Water pump looks right, you say belt is now on, and engine is at TDC. Now you have to apply some tension at the tensioner, take a deep breath, remove the cam sprocket clamp, and turn the engine 3 rotations . The tensioner pointer will move about as you do this, this is normal. Then, with engine set at TDC again by the bottom pulley markers aligned, you check that the cam pulleys markers are also lined up.
 If so, great, you merely set the tensioner and the job is done. If not, probably one notch out, you remove the belt and try again.

[addy]

I haven't removed locking tool so they are still in position as in the first set of pics I put up, showing cam sprockets and camlobe positions.

Do I remove camlock before setting pointer over to right, or after it? also Will the tension be slightly hard when adjusting over to the right? Sorry for questions just want to make sure I have directions right before I do something.

[terry paget]

I haven't removed locking tool so they are still in position as in the first set of pics I put up, showing cam sprockets and camlobe positions.

Do I remove camlock before setting pointer over to right, or after it? also Will the tension be slightly hard when adjusting over to the right? Sorry for questions just want to make sure I have directions right before I do something.

Can't see it much matters. I should remove the cam lock and the crank lock first, then tighten the tensioner, then turn the crankshaft three times.

[Doctor Gollum]

I haven't removed locking tool so they are still in position as in the first set of pics I put up, showing cam sprockets and camlobe positions.

Do I remove camlock before setting pointer over to right, or after it? also Will the tension be slightly hard when adjusting over to the right? Sorry for questions just want to make sure I have directions right before I do something.

Can't see it much matters. I should remove the cam lock and the crank lock first, then tighten the tensioner, then turn the crankshaft SIX times.

Fixed for accuracy 

[henryd]

Also Addy,did you compare the old belt with the New one for length/ number of teeth before fitting it

[Enceladus]

I haven't removed locking tool so they are still in position as in the first set of pics I put up, showing cam sprockets and camlobe positions.

Do I remove camlock before setting pointer over to right, or after it? also Will the tension be slightly hard when adjusting over to the right? Sorry for questions just want to make sure I have directions right before I do something.

When you put the belt on the left side should be taut and all the slack on the tensioner side. And yes when you add tension and move the pointer all the way over to the right side, you are slightly but deliberately over tensioning the belt. You can then remove the cam lock and rotate the engine by hand twice, four or even six times to settle the belt. Assuming the timing marks are still correct then you release enough tension to move the pointer back to the new belt marker and lock it in position. Then rotate the engine twice to double check.

Otherwise remove the belt and start again.

When rotating the engine it is always in multiples of two full rotations aka 720°.