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[Rods2]

IME if you get one of the kits from ebay with everything then all you need is genuine cam cover gaskets (if they need replacing) and replacement head bolts from ebay. Worth redoing manifold gaskets which were included in the kit.

I also did the water pump, thermostat, cam belt, resealed the oil cooler where it was leaking slightly, re-greased aux-belt tensioner pulley and fitted a new aux belt and new plug leads. I also replaced the coolant bridge gaskets, transfer pipe 'O-ring' and cam stretch bolts, which I got from my local Vx stealer.

[Sir Tigger KC]

OK, I've already got a set of camcover gaskets and have the goo, so that's covered.  My waterpump is only 6 months old so that can stay and the same with the cam belt (approx 7000 miles).

I'm mulling changing the oil cooler while I'm in there, but at the least I'll reseal the plate.  A new thermostat seems like a good idea as well and yes I'll need new washers and possibly banjo bolts for the coolant bridge. 

Is it really necessary to fit new cam bolts?   

Plan B seems increasingly attractive!   

[Webby the Bear]

OK, I've already got a set of camcover gaskets and have the goo, so that's covered.  My waterpump is only 6 months old so that can stay and the same with the cam belt (approx 7000 miles).

I'm mulling changing the oil cooler while I'm in there, but at the least I'll reseal the plate.  A new thermostat seems like a good idea as well and yes I'll need new washers and possibly banjo bolts for the coolant bridge. 

Is it really necessary to fit new cam bolts?   

Plan B seems increasingly attractive!   

The ones that hold the camshaft caps in? No, reuse (well I did anyway) 

[Webby the Bear]

ps, I used Elring for cam seals also 

[Rods2]

OK, I've already got a set of camcover gaskets and have the goo, so that's covered.  My waterpump is only 6 months old so that can stay and the same with the cam belt (approx 7000 miles).

I'm mulling changing the oil cooler while I'm in there, but at the least I'll reseal the plate.  A new thermostat seems like a good idea as well and yes I'll need new washers and possibly banjo bolts for the coolant bridge. 

Is it really necessary to fit new cam bolts?   

Plan B seems increasingly attractive!   

The ones that bolt the toothed sprockets to the cams are stretch bolts, so they should only be used once. Why risk a failure and valves kissing the pistons at speed, when I think I paid about a £1 each for them.

You will need an angle gauge for for these as well as the head bolts as they are torqued up and then tightened further using the angle gauge.

[Kevin Wood]

Cam sprocket bolts are indeed stretch bolts, but there's plenty of history of them being re-used without issue.

[Sir Tigger KC]

The ones that bolt the toothed sprockets to the cams are stretch bolts, so they should only be used once. Why risk a failure and valves kissing the pistons at speed, when I think I paid about a £1 each for them.

You will need an angle gauge for for these as well as the head bolts as they are torqued up and then tightened further using the angle gauge.

Thanks Rods and yes I'll need to get an angle gauge along with a decent breaker bar! 

Cam sprocket bolts are indeed stretch bolts, but there's plenty of history of them being re-used without issue.

Another dilemma!    But I guess if they're cheap enough.... 

[Sir Tigger KC]

Right so today I've stripped it down to the V and had a good poke around and I think it's a false alarm on the head gasket!    I pressure tested it, felt around the head and couldn't feel any wetness and peered down the back of the head in the gap between the dispack and it all looked dry! 

But for all that I couldn't  spot where it's leaking.    The HBV showed some signs of coolant around the pipes so I tightened the clips but it didn't look like it was leaking, even when I worked the valve.  I ran my hand around all the pipes down the back and again all seemed dry.  The coolant bridge looked OK, but the oil cooler plate looked as though it has 'weeped', but nothing like the amount that I'm losing!     I did find a leak that I didn't know about from the LPG vapouriser under the front bumper on the offside, so that's where I'm losing some of my coolant, but dosn't explain the torrent down the back. 

I guess the next stage is to get some new coolant bridge washers and some goo for the oil cooler plate, drain it all down and with the coolant bridge removed I'll be able to see down the back better and reseal the oil cooler plate.    Does the stainless coolant pipe that comes out the back and goes round to the rad ever fail? 

Sorry for the ramble, but I'm a bit flummoxed!    Still, happy days its not the head gasket!! 

[chrisgixer]

Core plug?

And has the hbv been tested with engine running and cc in hi and lo ?

Is there any coolant coloured residue, pink or terracotta brown, on the hbv or pipe work?   

[JamesV6CDX]

I bet it's still hg. You need to be a contortionist to actually see it, and it often only happens under specific conditions

[Sir Tigger KC]

Core plug?

And has the hbv been tested with engine running and cc in hi and lo ?

Is there any coolant coloured residue, pink or terracotta brown, on the hbv or pipe work?

Core plug? Hope not!  That's Plan B then!! 

Yes I've tested the HBV as you described and it looked OK and there were no signs of leakage from the HBV itself when I had a closer look when stripped down.  There was some residue but only around the pipes so I've nipped up the clips.  I guess everything behaves differently when hot and under pressure though.   

James, you might still be right about the HG, but I managed to feel all around and didn't feel any wet or come away with any residue and when pressured I have a small puddle after 20 mins or so.   

I reckon it's leaking from the very back of the oil cooler plate where I couldn't see due to the coolant bridge.    I'll get the coolant bridge washers and the goo in the week and have another go next weekend! 

[Marks DTM Calib]

On the bits for headgasket, here's my (proven) take on things:

Dowty washers for coolant bridge - original GM as the ones in the kits are crap and don't fit properly
Cam shaft seals - re-use but after fitting, make sure you tap them fully home so they are square in the machined housing
Head gaskets - any good make
Cam cover seals - genuine unless the original are ok/not to old in which case re-use
Manifold to head gaskets - Only use the metal multilayer ones, most of the kits come with the composite crap still so check this
Large stainless coolant pipe to block joint - Requires a large O ring, Vx only as the kits don't include them
If re-sealing the oil cooler plate you will need the 4 metal banjo bolt seals (Vx only from experience)
Cam sprocket bolts - re-use, yes they are angle tightened but not to the same point of yield as the head bolts so ok.
Head bolts -  avoid the ones from Shirley99 'up north' (think that was the ebay seller), as the quality can be iffy (had three snap on me!), I use them from Trechii
Manifold to front pipe gaskets - any make, seems to be no issue with these if fitted correctly.
I have never had to replace the studs or nuts on the V6 but, its important that on re-fit you fit the stud first if it comes outwith the bolt or you risk damaging the head and they wont torque up correctly/the same as the rest.
Oil, filter, antifreeze - use your preferred
You need the correct sealant for the oil cooler  (or the loctite equivalent)